juggernaut1

Yes the 518Z is a great turbo - fantastic mid-range. I'm currently running the short runner/big plenum Hypertune intake - so I'm sure if I went back to the long runner/small plenum stock intake my mid-range would pickup - which would be an interesting exercise for another day.

Only little Tomei 260/260 hla's and yet easily rev's to 8000. Boost is pretty savage - I've nearly spun the car a couple of times coming onto freeway on ramps with part throttle. I'm also getting compressor surge in the higher gears under 4000 rpm.

Whats the general concensus where AFR's should be - between 12 and 12.5? Mine was tuned recently and AFR's between 11.5 and 11.8 and I aksed the question should it be around 12.5, and the comment was "it won't last long around those AFR's". My car also see track days tho' and hence my tuner might have been thinking of cooler combustion chamber temps rather than out and out torque and hp.

Was in the same boat for my gate tubes. I ended up ordering a set of Tial ones and Tial v-band clamp from GCG that suit the 44 mm gate. I then had to get the other side machined up by an engineering firm. That way I had a male and female v band. Anyway here's how it looked before the final instal. My tuner - Glenn "Lumpy" Campbell with his masterpiece ....and the other side of the equation: More V-bands

When are they going to commercially distribute E85.

Yes thats all great when the car is moving at speed - but most engine bay heatsoak occurs at low speed stop/start traffic and when stationery at lights - causing intake temps to increase without a CAI. I have seen some carbon fibre over the radiator intakes for LS1's which would be a better proposition than the typical aluminium ones I see which are more prone to having the same surface temp as the radiator itself.

That LS1 in in an S14 so over the radiator is out of the question. In any case, why would you want to draw air in from over the radiator and preheat the air - its defeating the purpose isn't it?

Here's another option that could be adapted - paint it black to give it that OEM look: and installed - note that the filter backs up against the back of the headlight to draw air in from outside of the engine bay:

Oh I see. That subi setup is running a dual gate setup. My twin scroll/twin gate 3071 setup is running 24psi in the mid-range but drops boost in the top end (21/22 psi), and so torque drops and hp levels off. At a guess, the boost solenoid is having a hard time trying to hold two gates shut running 1 bar gate spring pressure against 24 psi of boost. Running two tial 44's has a fair valve area open to back pressure in the system. I'm going to change the restrictor in the EBC line and see how I go.

Sorry, no can do. But generally I find torque lags slightly behind the boost curve based on the dyno's I see. So I'd say definately all in by 4000 rpm.

For comparison purposes - Subi WRX 2.5 litre GT35 with full-race twin scroll T4 1.06 rear - 23 psi, 100 (US) octane - stock block and heads - 11.35 quarter at 128 mph.

sweet

Any specs on Athids TDO6 L2 20G Trent i.e. Compressor/Turbine inducer/exducer sizes? Would be good to form some sort of basis to compare to the Garrett offerings. Cheers,

I ended up buying a beanie from hp in a box.....and I've gotta say I'm impressed with the quality and fitment of the product. Most of the beanies I see look like a bloody silver nappy wrapped around the housing but the hp in a box item was a much nicer item. Had it on when the car was being dyno and it certainly helped temps. I'll post up a picture when I get the chance. Cheers

Thanks. Although a few bugs to iron out .....its a fantastic car to drive as it is. What the graphs don't show is the part throttle response.......which is just scintellating.

The place was called Competition and Industrial Coatings in Perth. Cant remember cost off the top of my head. They do the inside and outside of the manifold (and ex housing) in a double layer coat of the black extreme coating. Here's an example of their work:

Had the car back on the dyno yesterday - some dyno figures for you. The first two dyno runs were done in 4th gear in my car which is not a 1 to 1 ratio (I'm running a close ratio Nismo box) The second of those two dyno's you will see overlayed over another dyno (thick black lines). This compares my twin scroll (thin lines) with a single scroll 3071 on a 6Boost mani with stock intake (thick lines). As you will see I'm making 20 psi by around 3600 to 3700 rpm - insane considering this was not done in 5th gear (4th gear in normal car). It is also remakable given that I am running a .78 ex AR and 4 litre plenum and short runners. The second two dynos were done in 5th gear (4th in normal car) - so we are now running a 1 to 1 ratio. Interesting how the gear ratios affect torque and hp? You will note that my boost is falling away in the higher rpm as I need to sort out the boost controller so that it will hold boost. If I can get it to hold boost I think I will be able to maintain max torque to the redline resulting in even more hp. Played around with VCT and is on at 1500 rpm and off at 7000 rpm. Played around with ex cam settings and ended up retarding the ex cam a few degree. We lost about 10 hp at peak but gained 15 at peak through the midrange. Overall retarding the cam resulted in more area under the curve even tho it was at the expennse of peak hp. It also spooled the turbo about 150 to 200 rpm earlier As you can see the temps in Perth yesterday were hot but it still cranked out some reasonable numbers. I took it for a drive last night in the cooler (but still warm) conditions and this car hauls ass. It actually doesn't feel like a turbo car it feels like a big cube V8 under the bonnet. By 4000 rpm it is hauling ass all the way to the 8000 rpm cut out. I can't wait to fix up the boost issues and take it for a drive in cooler conditions. Anyway enough of my ranting.

So to clarify...your running a beanie on this car?

All good......sounds like the airflow depends on the particular car then.

Yes thats the theory....but I found an article on the autospeed website and they performed pressure testing and found that the pressure on the bonnet nearest the windscreen was higher than the pressure under the bonnet at the same point. As air moves from high pressure to low pressure the air actually flows back into the engine bay if it is vented near the windscreen. This is also why manufacturers install air vents along the base of the windscreen for airflow into the cabin of the car.

Understand what you are saying. Only concern is (as with all turbo cars - there will be some ex gas residue left in the cylinder which pollutes the incoming charge) whether the additional heat stored in the ex gas residue will promote earlier detonation? Maybe it isnt a concern for me....as the car was on the dyno a couple of weeks ago and my tuner commented how much additional timing he was able to dial into my car before the onset of detonation compared to other similar setups.

Yes I read that comment from Hp in a box on their website. Hmmm there seems to be two schools of though on raising the back of of the bonnet. Some say this a high pressure area and forces air back into the engine bay which in turn leads to other issues i.e. reduces airflow through the radiator, intercooler etc. Which is why I odered a vented bonnet which promotes airflow through the rad and pulls the heat out of the engine bay.

Do you mean I need to worry about ex gas temps or just the manifold temp. The manifold is also double ceramic coated internally and externally (as is the turbine). My hot and cold intercooler pipes are also ceramic coated. I've thought about sheilding the manifold (top mount) with the ACL heat shield (as used on XR6 turbos), blanketting the turbine and wrapping the dump and gate pipes. I've also got a vented bonnet on the way. Am I on the right track......do you see any accelerated heat fatique issues I should worry about as a consequence of blanketting and wrapping. Cheers,

Who's using turbo beanies/blankets are do you find these effective. Are there any disadvantages of using these products to reduce heat off the turbine. Do they cause the turbine to overheat i.e. is it better to have airflow to the turbine. Are there better ways to reduce underbonnet heat. P.S. I already have ceramic coating on the turbine and dump pipe. Please discuss

I hope so too!!!