JonnoHR31

aslong as your injectors are big enough the standard one is fine. the only time you'd use an adjustable aftermarket reg is if your squeezing the last little bit of flow out of the standard injectors or your standard one fails

so run 10 psi all the time and dont worry about it

if you already have the nismos and a reg then just bump the pressure up a bit if you need more headroom. nismo have a very good spray pattern

450 is about 280rwkw

you can buy adapters that bolt into factory reg position and have a hose fitting to run a fuel line to a universal reg

its a leak after the afm but under boost its before the turbo (bov is closed under boost), therefore it'll make it slightly leaner all the time. but unless its a huge leak it'll still be rich overall because of the standard ecu. if the leak were after the turbo it'd be leaner off boost and richer on boost

where it cuts back in depends on the speed the engines moving back towards idle. just lower it until it makes the car drive like shit and stalls. the only problem i found with having it too low in a manual car was on extremely light throttle down a hill in 5th it'd cut in and out sometimes, but thats a tps issue aswell

its supposed to only lock when hot, thats how a clutch fan works

the ecu cuts fuel under decel, the engine becomes an air pump during this time and AFR's will spike to over 20:1. perfectly normal and nothing to worry about

no, 30 fans make more noise but dont flow more. they flow the least air and make the most noise of all RB fans. as said just find another RB hub, make sure it mounts in the same spot and bolt it up

it'll be fine on the standard ecu. be rich and gay but it'll run fine

wrong, wrong and wrong as adriano said, clamp the line and fuel pressure will go off the end of a normal gauge with any properly working efi pump. its been said enough times, fuel pressure is referenced to manifold pressure. the reg constantly keeps fuel pressure 43psi above manifold pressure. if your so certain your reg holds 40psi under boost then try taking the vac line off. if your right it'll be perfectly fine....

interesting. how do you find the safe limit then if you cant use knock sensors? go for MBT then back it off a bit for safety?

actually it does. the vac line from the manifold to the reg keeps fuel pressure at ~40psi ABOVE manifold pressure. therefore its lower under vacuum and higher under boost. as said this is to achieve an even flow rate regardless of boost/vac how much power you can get out of injectors also depends on how well your motor makes power. if you have a big exhaust restriction and your unable to run much timing under load then your not going to make much power relative to the amount of air and fuel your using. i have 555s running at over 80% for a 12:1 afr and i was making 250rwkw on 98 when ideally 80% would mean over 300rwkw.

biggest problem is when the tanks get really low. if you ever go to a servo with out of order tapes on all the 98 but they let you have some if you need it, dont touch it

was that with the o2 set to petrol or ethanol? would have to be petrol?

theres no such thing as a s1 pfc. all 25 pfc's are the same and work on both s1 and s2 start with the basics, check for fuel and spark

if they're still a similar price go the 740's. if they're set up properly you'll get the same economy as 555s.

most if not all s2 blocks have the oil and water feeds and the tensioned machined. early vl's have s1 blocks and some later ones have s2 blocks. all 31s have s2 blocks

sender should plug (or rather slide) into the 20 loom. then at the ecu end you need to find the temp gauge wire on the ecu side of the 20 body loom plug then wire it up to the temp gauge wire on your standard silvia body loom

you need the original silvia gauge sender or another from the same model silvia. gauge senders are car specific, not motor specific

and yes its overfuelling. the only time it might be the slighest bit lean is at a very low idle. but thats unlikely and definately not a problem. as said, if you have access to your ecu settings then change them to suit the injectors, if not take it to the tuners with a new set of plugs handy

got it hooked up the right way? has it been unscrewed all the way at all since it last worked or was made

would still work but not aswell as having it closer to the t/b. stock position is best

still spin forward but the air is moving backwards and putting backpressure on the comp wheel in the opposite direction its spinning, hence the noise. if the comp wheel stopped and went backwards it wouldnt go chututututu on you