Gareth
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Posts posted by Gareth
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My renewal came around a month ago, $25 cheaper! This equated to around $400 per year for an agreed value of $18000. I called them up and increased value to $22000 which increased the premium upto around 450. I think my excess is 500 might may be less, sorry I'm abit vague with detail as I'm away on holiday at the moment.
I have to say it wasn't as easy as i was expecting to increase the value, took a little persuading and i had to describe the restorative work i had done and how much i had spent over the previous year etc, etc
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I'm unsure about 34's but my first skyline was a r33 gts25 type-s which was the best of the NA r33's (slightly more power, standard viscous LSD (option on lower models)) unsure what else was different, but it had the red GT badges to differentiate it from the non type-s. I worked with a guy who after being in my car several times went out and got himself a blue badged number and it was a totally different car....haha...he was gutted..... I have fond memories of that car, it wasn't slow and was the most reliable skyline i have owned by a long long way
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Nope, can be replaced with everything in place. definitely worthwhile, as it will probably be empty
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Just signed up for my month free trial of Foxtel play........looking forward to watching lots of this years 24 without having to resort to unreliable pirate streams....go Porsche!!
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Jiffo was spot on, that 100k sticker is just the one saying that's when the timing belt should be changed. Will have been on there from the factory
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If you will post to Melbourne I'll take them.
sent you PM.
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What do you run on the rear Joey?
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I ended up going for the expensive option (also got new hubs which doubled the price). I figured pay extra = less hassles and guaranteed to work.
If your not in a hurry don't bother with Kudos, I got mine for about $40 less than the Kudos price but if i was doing it now i would go amayama 100%. I just had a look and their price for bearing and seal (what Kudos offers for $275) and it is only $120 (plus shipping)!
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My money would be on empty accumulator for your first problem, don't bother with second hand they are all old by now, brand new will set you back approx $300
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I made some of my own a few years ago out of various different plastics, when i went to to take a photo i could only find 2 of them (think i made 4 originally), my main jack has a rectangular lifting pad rather than the usual round ones, so i made the width of the block to suit but it also works on my other 'round' jack aswell. from memory the slot was 12mm wide and 17mm deep.
They work well
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Can you hear the pump pressuring the system when you turn on the ignition? it should prime for about 5 seconds and the fluid level in the attesa reservoir will drop about an inch.
Given that your front wheels are getting no drive i would say either your pump is dead or the clutches in the transfer case are totally worn out, probably the former.
the torque gauge on the dash just shows the amount of power the computer wants to send to the front not how much power IS getting there....not sure about the leaking fluid, i think there is a breather on top of the gearbox and also the transfer case but i don't know why it would be leaking out
Your issues sound expensive, good luck
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Ok, so that wasn't the end of the story, problem was much better but still a problem. I noticed my Attesa pump was a little noisy and figured the accumulator was probably empty causing the pump to run way more than it should so I changed the accumulator (approx $300 from RHDjapan).
What a difference! now when bleeding the front bleed nipple i get a nice constant stream of fluid with pump kicking in intermittently as opposed to before where pump would go non stop, also fluid returns to reservoir much quicker after engine has been turned off (majority within 6 hours, all within 12) whereas before it was taking 3-4 days!! Most importantly no sign of any air pocket! Have been for a couple of drives (maybe around 900km) and nothing at all, no air...........Hallelujah!!!
Wish i had changed the Accumulator ages ago, wondering how long my pump will last now (given that it's making some noise)... don't fancy having to buy a new one @ $3200! I wonder how many people are just driving around with empty accumulators and dont even know.
anyway hopefully that's the last of it, and this helps out someone in the future.
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No you don't need the engine running at any stage of the bleeding procedure
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They look worse than club permit plates, I'll just stick with my Black and White Slimlines I think
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Here is what FAST gives you:
I am no help in telling you what it means however. I too was under the impression that an M-Spec should have leather.
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with the Extreme TSC (my 32 gtr also came with one which i havnt played with yet)
silly question,
im assuming when toggled to 4wd its not active at all and the usual system does what it does.
when ON, can someone confirm exactly what the gain is doing.
on the box, 0 = (standard) 10=(max front torque)
which it clearly not. 0 just = skiddies which is not standard
does 10 = standard as in as much 4wd a standard = grip
and 5 meaning half way so my gauge would only read %25 front torque? or does 10 give me more FWD torque than usual.
I also have one of these that i got with the car. Think of the 2wd 4wd switch as like an on off switch when on 2wd the dial will do nothing at all and car will be rwd (mine still rotates front wheels if all 4 wheels are in the air, but torque gauge reads zero and wheels can be stopped by hand)
You can switch from 4wd to 2wd on the fly but not back again (have to turn off ignition to engage 4wd)
With switch on and dial set to 0 which my understanding was this was supposed to be standard (as in no controller fitted) car is fairly tail happy and it allows you to get fairly sideways before front torque pulls you back, as i understood it this sounded pretty consistent with standard r32 behaviour.
I usually leave mine at 0, if I'm pushing it abit and want less rear step out i turn it upto 3 or 4 if it's really wet i might have it on 6. I have never felt the need to go higher than that.
I know other systems (ruzik, hks etc) are much more comprehensive but the extreme tcs works pretty well for me, makes a massive difference especially in the wet.
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I didn't have any errors, but i replaced my canister and it totally changed the behaviour of the system during bleeding.
I got mine from rhdjapan (few months ago) it was about $280. My pump was starting to make funny noises from running all the time, wish I had changed it ages ago
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Thanks for the update, mine is still working fine thankfully, but your experience would certainly make me think twice about buying a new one of i needed it!
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When i moved to Victoria 5 years ago i was almost put off getting back into skylines after reading the EPA thread. Touch wood but i have never been pulled over or had any kind of trouble whatsoever, granted 95% of my driving is out of town on weekends and RDO's but still. So really ask yourself what kind of weekend driving you want to do, do you want to weekend drive like i do or do you want to drive around melbourne with your mates on fri/sat night. If it's the latter then like everyone says, probably more hassle than it's worth....
If it's the former, apart from all the holes in the bumper the car looks awesome, i think the skirts etc make the car look lower than it actually is
Good luck finding what you want.........
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No German race this year for the first time in 55 years, farking bernie that greedy c*nt
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I'm talking about the little icon that accompanies the page title (on the tab at the top), i'm using chrome and i have noticed for a month or more the icon is no longer there, makes the bookmarks bar look a little sh*t.
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^^^^^ please!
For Sale 4wd Pump
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
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