Gareth
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Posts posted by Gareth
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Hi Robbie, Gareth here....finally caught up with this thread.....have been rationing it for soooo long now not wanting to catch up and be able to view on demand........like i told you on the phone, sensational build, I have enjoyed it immensely, I know what people mean when they talk about not wanting to subject it to the aussie roads though, i just went for a 1500km mini-holiday in my 32 up in the victorian alps, some of the roads are in appalling condition, impossible to enjoy the drive when your too busy dodging pot holes and lumps in the road! If my car was in the mint condition yours is now in i would probably have cried on several occasions, as it's not i was only moderately cringing/pissed off when i couldn't dodge something...
can't wait to see it completed, not long to go...keep up the good work!
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my first car was a DA6 Integra (1.6 VTEC) it was a great first car....reliable, cheap to run, quick for a 1.6, and handled really well, also i found the liftback to be a pretty good compromise between the look of the car and a practicability of a hatchback....if you can afford a type-R that would be awesome, personally i would want a DC2 but JDM spec (not with the round headlights) not even sure if they exist in aus tho.
I have owned a R33 gts25 type-s which was a fantastic car, far more reliable than any turbo skyline i have had, i had a mate who had a R32 gts and even that was pretty good.....can't say i have any experience with 34's. only problem with the R33 was it's fuel use was about the same as the gts25t that i later got and the GT-R that i have now.
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Ok so it seems nobody cares, but i did a bleed (didn't appear that there was any air in the lines), and unplugged-plugged the connector in the kick panel 150-200 times (i kid you not) and now my reservoir looks like this:
the air gap is now about 7mm, seemed to not want to go any further, but compared to what it was it is a vast improvement and hopefully no more leaking issues!
I'll see how it goes with regards to how fast the gap increases again.
if anyone can post telling me whether or not it's normal for the gap to increase over time that would be great.........
thanks
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ok so i read the manual which answered my question whether the air can be bled off, (even if it wasn't exactly clear) is it normal that the air in the reservoir increases over the space of a few months or should it stay pretty constant???
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Hi guys
my Attesa reservoir looks like this :
note this is with ignition off. in this picture air gap is 27mm and fluid is 30mm above max line, when ignition is on fluid level is 25mm above max line, previous owner of the car had this problem in January: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418449-r32-gtr-attesa-overflow-or-leak/
when i got the car i got all the fluids changed and mentioned that i thought the fluid was overfilled, so the attesa fluid was changed and the system bled (supposedly) but it was still way over the max line, it wasn't causing any problem and 4wd seemed to be working fine so i didn't worry about it, however after the last time i drove the car (which was in a rather enthusiastic fashion) i returned to the garage a week later to find leaked fluid (same as in post above), it looks as though its just overflowing out of the top when fluid is returning.
from what i have read the air gap is only supposed to be 5mm max, If i bleed the system myself will that reduce that gap? without removing fluid and reservoir to have a good look its a little hard to tell how it works. I noticed that fluid level inside reservoir always seems to be higher than it appears on the outside and wondered if the filter inside the reservoir was abit clogged.
edit: I remember that i had taken a picture when i first got the car, the air gap has definitely increased as you can see:
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I wouldn't trust anyone that puts a transformers sticker on their GT-R....
there is nothing wrong with what he has done, parts are often worth more off the car, or maybe he wanted to keep bits and pieces for his future R34......go and have a look and judge it in person, might be ok
at least his second ad isn't full of lies such as 'never been boosted' etc, if you go and have a look dont let on that you know about the old ad, ask him some questions and see if he is honest...that will tell you alot.
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I sold mine for $8k in under 24 hours! i did spend $8k on engine mods less than 12 months ago and it was in very good condition inside and out though
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You'll want to read this article: http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107753/article.html
I enjoyed that article....thanks...
been watching a few r32 acceleration videos on youtube and it seems as though 10% on the gauge is normal under full acceleration so at least i know that's normal, it's just the reading i'm getting when cruising at 100km/h thats strange
the rims and tyres i have on there are all identical with similar wear, i'm going to try put a few psi more into the rears and see if that makes a difference,
thanks everyone.
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ahhhhhh, i'm confused, who's talking about 300zx parts?
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I'm needing to replace a wheel bearing but am a little confused by these two options, i was hoping someone could explain it to me.
or the one listed here
http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/datasheets/nissan/wheel-bearing-kits#vehicle_make_1303
am i right in thinking the more expensive kit (top one) already has the bearings pressed into the housing so easier to swap over for a diy job, whereas the bottom option is just the bearings themselves so would be more labour involved, and a big press.
which one is the go?
thanks
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so an update......got my girlfriend to jump in the car and engage first gear while i had a good look at what was going on. Noise is coming from passenger side hub, strange thing is that the passenger side hub is rotating normally and the drivers side stops/inches along, put the wheels back on and gave it a good wiggle back and forth (top to bottom) and got abit of movement so i guess that wheel bearing is shot and causing the noise (and hopefully the cause of my vibration)
can anyone tell me why the drivers side wheel stops rotating when it seems like its the passenger one thats f*cked? is this an issue with the diff?
and when you change wheel bearings do you change the other side at the same time regardless or only if it needs it?
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drop the tailshaft and spin the hub by hand? i would have thought something that happens so easily with no load would be showing up in a major way when driving.
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thanks for the helpfull replies. I should have noted that the gauge observation is when i have the 4wd controller turned to 0.
seems like the 24 year old g-sensor might be playing up.
The workings of ATTESSA has been done to death. A search of these forums should get you an answer to your question.
I'm sure attesa has been done to death but i couldn't find anything helpfull (the search function is pretty hopeless on this site) i used to have much better results just using google with skylinesaustralia (followed by what i wanted to search for) but google has changed and no longer gives the 'more results from skylinesaustralia.com' thing to click on.
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I am trying to diagnose a vibration/rumbling from the rear at speeds over 130 km/h so i jacked up the rear and pulled off both wheels, my plan was to put it into rwd and just engage first gear, stick my head under the back and have a listen, but when i engaged first gear after 3-4 seconds of drivers side hub rotating (i have my head out the door looking) a clicking noise starts (sounds rather like two gears with worn teeth that are not fully engaged and skipping) and the drivers side hub has stopped spinning and is kind of inching along. If i push in the clutch at let it out again the noise starts immediately (no 3-4 seconds of rotation) but if i run it in reverse (which seems to work normally with no noises or anything) and then go back to first i get the 3-4 seconds of normal rotation in 1st again. I'm not sure what is going on with the tailshaft and the passenger side hub while this is going on. can someone please enlighten me as to what might be happening?
thanks
(car is a 32 gtr)
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I have just recently purchased my first GT-R (an R32) and was wanting to know if the way the front torque gauge is behaving is normal, abnormal, or whether the gauge is just abit dicky (like many a skyline gauge)
So with normal driving my gauge sits anywhere from 0-10%, like i'm driving on the freeway at 100km/h i look down and the gauge is sitting on 10 (or 8 or whatever) and it seems to stay at that position until i completely release the throttle which (after a second) causes the gauge to drop back to zero.
yesterday i tested the 4wd (as i didn't actually know whether it was working) so on a wet road i did a couple of moderate launches, gauge shot up to somewhere around the 40 mark and i got bugger all wheelspin so i presume it is working. also experimented with the 4wd controller which definately was working as on zero the rear was more twitchy and on around 7 it felt really good and could really put the power down on corner exit
So does all this sound fairly normal? i was expecting gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick.
Thanks
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damn wish i had seen this before, just payed for a brand newy day before last!
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hmmm i will look into it
, will update the thead once i figure out somethinghow did you go? i want to do something similar with mine.
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Could someone please FAST this number for me: BNR32-003368
Thanks.
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deposit taken....
i guess the old cliche 'first to see will buy' isn't just a cliche
thanks for all the interest i was blown away.
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Located in Pascoe Vale South VIC40th Anniversary edition. Garaged, weekend car only does 4000km per year, only 91xxxkm on the clock, great condition inside and out.246 rwkw @ 15psi (dyno sheet available)All work performed by Chasers Motorworks in west MelbourneModifications include:BMC high flow panel filter (in standard airbox), GCG High flow turbo, Z32 AFM, Walbro 250 l/hr fuel pump, Jecs 650cc Injectors, Apexi Power FC, HKS EVC-S, Blitz SE return flow FMIC, 54mm Alloy RadiatorJJR Bellmouth Dump/front pipe, High flow Cat, Fujitsubo rear muffler (jasma spec) (sounds really good, not too loud).NPC Organic Clutch (standard feel, rated to 300 rwkw)Intima SR brake Pads (rated to 700 degrees)I have receipts for all this work which was only done July 2012.Standard parts that have been upgraded will come with car also (ECU, Injectors, AFM, intercooler, dump/front pipe)other modifications : Nismo clear side indicators, Nissan 350z 18" wheels, D1 Aluminium Wheel nuts, Alpine Double DIN CD player/radio with Ipod connectivity, front and rear strut braces, razo gearknob, Autometer boost gauge, mongoose alarm systemOil changed every 2000km (6 months) with fully synthetic quality oil. gearbox oil is synthetic and was done when clutch was installed, Brake fluid was changed with pad install and replenished with Motul RBF600.I had planned to keep this car for a long time which is why i only used quality parts and oils, i spent months looking for the best condition, low km, example i could find. I have now decided to buy a GT-R instead.i'm asking for $8000, my loss can be your gain, total bill for modifications was $8000 and i paid significantly more than that for the car only 3 years ago. I'm keen for a quick sale which is why i'm selling for this price, it does not come with a RWC and the price is not negotiable.Minor cosmetic damage such as crack in front bar and small marks on rear corner (see photos)Test drives will be at my discretion and only when proof of funds are sighted.PM or contact on 0415571302
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I would rather chip in a dollar for another 2 years of the most entertaining thread ever!
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dude, this thread is from 2010¡!
yes but the car is currently for sale and still has the issue so....
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ahhh yes i knew there was a website like that somewhere, thanks.
, will update the thead once i figure out something
For Sale : Nissan Skyline R32 Gtr V-Spec
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Posted
Here you go...