Jump to content

GimpyDammit

Members
  • Content Count

    237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About GimpyDammit

  • Rank
    -Gimpy-
  • Birthday 10/25/1984

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    hunter_killer_2001@passport.co
  • Website URL
    http://displayitpockets.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ryde Area

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    1993 R32 GTR
  • Real Name
    Michael

Recent Profile Visitors

4,350 profile views
  1. Hi All, Recently (dec last year) had the rb build at Mick's motorsport. New turbos fitted too. Drove the Car around a bit and was all ok. Did 2+ hrs each way up the coast and back and all good. Went to visit wifey at work, got 20mins down homebush bay drive and the car started blowing huge plumes of white smoke. Managed to get the car to her work and leave it there until 9 at night. Got the car at 9 and it drove home with no issues at all. Took it out the weekend after and got 20 mins down pennant hills road and it starts blowing smoke again. Car has been at CRD for a 4wd fault and no issues when they road tested it. Blew an intercooler hose off today driving it, hose was clean, no signs of oil. Got the car home and into the garage and after 5mins idling, started blowing smoke. Any ideas on where to start?
  2. Chasing an Fcc3 power fc hand controller to suit a 33GTR power fc unit. Ok with pick up from Sydney area, also happy to pay postage.
  3. Hi all, I have a 93 R32 Gtr with the usual rust in the rear guards. I had planned to get the guards cut out and new ones welded in, but didnt realise how much work was involved. I have 2nd hand guards for it. What are the other options? Was thinking about buying a shell and swapping stuff over. Have seen bolt on overfenders or guards, anyone used these? Just got a built motor for it so want to keep it. Cheers
  4. Hahah, cheers thanks for the input, looks like its motor out again....
  5. Hi all, Looking into weather its possible to remove the sump & diff from an R32 Gtr without removing the engine? Think the engines spun a bearing and it was a huge job to get the motor out last time (3 days in and out over a long weekend) and i'm really not keen to do that again. Obviously if the cranks been scored of something, the engine will need to come out but as a first move checking the bearning sounds good to me. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Michael
  6. Couldn't have put it better Looking for around the 6k mark
  7. I think I postes it there too, not sure if its been deleted
  8. Howdy, Up for sale ready to go 180 drift car. Full info on guntree http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seven-hills/cars-vans-utes/ready-to-drift-1991-nissan-180sx-unregistered-/1055010993 Any questions, feel free to ask -Michael-
  9. I'm after the stock r33 gtr rb26 cam gear cover and the coil pack cover Cheers
  10. Cheers, He's fresh out unfortunatley
  11. Looking for an Rb26 from a 32R to replace my tired engine, looking for complete as possible, prefer lowish k's
  12. Needs more boot and more compression

  13. If it were the earthing to the pump, wouldn't it pull a pump code? The 4wd ecu has an extra earth to the bolts holding it in, I'll check the underbody see if I can find something
  14. Been having this problem for quiet a while now. Have a power fc and the hand controller, tps voltage is .51 at idle. When I start the car, everything is fine. If I use anything electrical (brakes, windows, headlights) the 4wd light comes on. But if I hold the revs at 2k it dosn't happen. Read the code from the 4wd ecu and get 21 tps sen/circ Ive tried swapping the 4wd ecu, running wires from tps to ecu, adjusting tps. Starting to run out of ideas. Taken it to a few places and no-one seemes to be able to fix it. Looked on quiet a few forums, but there don't seem to be any people having the same fault. Any ideas?
  15. Trying to get guards that arn't rusted to fix my current guards that are rusted
×
×
  • Create New...