JBird

haha this whole thread was about whether or not the new GTR comes in traditional manual guise? BKC, I doubt it will come in normal manual because the "F1 gearbox" is better and does things faster. Unfortunately thats the future.

Don't waste your money on a bov. All you need is an exhaust + dump pipes etc. (2nd hand will do, find at a jap importer/wrecker, 3.5" will be big enough - no canons please!) and a A'pexi power FC/Greddy E-manage. Get it tuned by someone reputable. Stock cooler is fine for stock boost, maybe if you can get a cheap GTR intercooler that would be the cheapest way to get into high 13's. Then you'll be looking at new clutches, tyres. If you spend a little more, FMIC will do the trick, boost controller (stock turbo doesn't like being boosted though), fuel pump when you get past 200kw. Keep in mind its not all about power, driver skill/reaction and good suspension and tyre choice will get you over the line. Just see how you got adding one thing at a time. stock car: Lower rear tyre pressures, find a good launch point and away you go. add exhaust, repeat add ecu, away you go.

You are an idiot. Pay attention. F1 only. Also. You are an idiot.

The chief engineer has said that they are building a V-Spec version for next year. He said that it wouldn't necessarily have more power over the base model, but it will be stripped out and have a different suspension (track only tune). Should cost around $220-240k < meant to be competing with the 911 GT3. Rollcage will be an option I believe.

^ 7 speed ? I thought it was 6 unless they're counting reverse. Getting some high praise there. Corvette forum is funny.

You have to put the spring compressors on before having the wheel extend after you jack he whole vehicle up! I don't get what your saying but it sounds like the spring is pushing the strut/arm down so the bolt has a restriction on it from coming out. Invest in a breaker bar, douse it in WD40

Like I said, Tsuchiya can make a 10kg/mm 12kg/mm etc. spring rate-ed car go fast through touge (watch any hot version, BMI) but watch how he has to fight the wheel. It would make driving the car a chore. I prefer a car thats fast and "easy" to drive, and still have some level of day to day comfortability

Have you gotten the crack in the middle of the dashboard and windscreen yet? To be frank Sydney roads are shit BTW the Mines R34 GTR runs shocks designed and built in the UK...they then stuck 10kg/mm springs on it. Michael is right though, it does come down to preference. I find having too high a spring rate makes the car hard to drive particularly in the twisties which tend to have quite a few undulations...it might not necessarily be slower but it feels more dangerous/unstable - couple that with street tyres and the car feels unco.

Heasman are very expensive, turnaround was pretty bad when I had work done by them before too. Do it yourself if you have a jack and stands. You may also need a breaker bar and torque wrench,. If you got rear pineapples you can do this yourself as they are split and you only need to partially undo the bolts holding the rear. In regards to getting bushes pressed in, take your control arms off and bring them to the suspension place. +1 for spring compressors, I actually used vice grips - I jacked up the suspension arm to compress the spring and locked them. Jim Hunter out at blacktown is pretty reasonable. East Coast down at Kirrawee I can also recommend, they replaced all the bushes and rubbers on a friends Torana for around $700 and it took 3 days.

Wow I can't believe your putting NOS in. I doubt it will make 200kw...well not at the wheels anyway. The bad thing about some NOS systems is they're not progressive and come on too strongly, 75hp sounds alright. If you insist on staying N/A and not going FI, bang for your buck - cams and power fc ... it would make the engine much more elastic in the rev range, might lose a bit of bottom end depending on what cams you going.

Are you sure 8 piston is big enough Just buy a GTR when your off your P's much easier.

Internalised? Pretty much the only "non-turbo" friendly aspect of the DE is its high compression ratio. The cheapest way is to bolt a turbo/manifold/dump pipes all from a turbo model and a decompression plate between the head and block, change the ECU to a turbo models. You won't be able to go very high with the boost. The other way is to get the DE rebuilt with forged pistons with a lower compression ratio, forged rods...not sure what else is different maybe oil pump? You would need to upgrade the brakes to the GTT models, change the springs and shocks as I'm sure these will be different, the gearbox is also different I think - you will then need an engineer to sign off on it. I would pick GTST's option. Too much hassle, just buy a turbo model later down the track. in 1,2,3 years time it will be cheaper. In the mean time learn how to drive with no turbo. Also don't buy a $13G RB26...What is that? A 500 HP crate motor? Without doubting your driving skill too much, best way is to gradually go more powerful

bkc... 1.The 350Z is one of the most popular tuned cars in America. The tuning scene in America has taken the Z in open arms. 2. It is not only good for normal daily driving, Nismo have used the engine in their JGTC cars 3. In JGTC the RB26 is getting phased out. As far as I know the grand touring R34 GT-R now uses a twin turbo 350z motor. 4. On a stock motor it is just as reliable if not more than and RB26, but doesn't suffer from oiling problems. 5. THE VR38DETT IS NOT THE SAME AS A VQ MOTOR...THE BLOCK DESIGN IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. NOT JUST INTERNALS ARE DIFFERENT. THEY ARE DIFFERENT. 6. The latest GT-R is a big success, 2200 orders have been placed and demand has outstripped supply! It has run a 7minutes 38seconds at nurburgring. The engine has been thoroughly tested. I'm sure if you removed the emissions restrictions the motor would see 400kw easily.

As far as I can tell the wing does not look adjustable a la Veyron, Cayman etc. Any idea what the Carwings button is for? Sorry Couldn't find a pic but I'm sure you all seen the centre console too. Edit: Should've typed it in google first -_- Carwings: -Jap spec high speed satellite navigation

What motor do you have? If you don't have the correct size injectors then you need a Power FC or the like - otherwise the engine will run very rich, it will look like you have a blown turbo

The front end really ruins it ... looks like a less mean 350z/GT-R. They should just tweak the existing S15 body, use spare parts from the 350z bin (suspension etc.) then stick a baby GT-R motor in it..VR20DET? =D

scarface was asking if 10/10 was too stiff for the street <STREET> ... not some perfect track in Japan. Jap time attack cars are made for one sole purpose, when was the last time you saw the Mine's R34/HKS Evo etc. on a street? (hypothetically). You are ignoring what Gary and Beersandwich are saying. You might not think they (TEIN) are too stiff...but compared to what? What was your old set up? I've personally seen how good Gary's bilstein/whiteline combo is and how smooth it looks on the street and at Wakefield. I've also experienced TEIN Super drifts, 7/7 with adjustable rebound...and I would pick SK's group buy over it without a doubt. No matter how much adjusting we did to it (R33) couldn't put the power down when the road was bumpy, and over series of bumps the tires don't even make contact with the surface anymore. Of course they're better than the 100,000km old shocks/springs that were in it before... I say compare your setup to someone in the WA who has installed SK's suspension package. If you think having good suspension is as easy as fiddling around with a little nob you are sadly mistaken...the fact of the matter is TEIN's are not suited for street use, and why would you want a ONE TRICK PONY. <that probably does not directly relate to you because you stated your car is a circuit car but please do not recommend it for street use> James

VE SS...much better motor...more torquey down low, don't really need to modify to get anywhere. Keep it stock. Pretty good handling for something so massive, brakes really let it down though. Unfortunately you won't find any for 25k yet. If you have to buy a Ford I'd buy it in Auto...and you'd have to do something to the engine to make it more responsive. It's a little like the euro V8's that need to be reved to start going anywhere. Why not buy a Lexus LS400? Cheap as, bulletproof motor, leather interior the whole shebang.

I doubt you would have to tear down every 12 months. I read that somewhere too...and I'm scepticle to say the least that Nissan would bother releasing a $170k lemon.

After 100k kms, the suspension must be fairly tired. Get Sydney kid suspension before going for more power.

Stop defying all reason and logic.

Fark. You keep starting dumb threads (re: I want a quiet exhaust should I buy a stagea will cops pull me over in a stagea) and wonder why you get flamed. Also I doubt you will get a CAMS license "soon..very soon". Now to your 'question' go attend a Wakefield track day...factor in costs for new brake fluid, possibly brake pads, maybe need to machine discs, oil change, helmet. A couple of laps at a track will rape your car so make sure it is properly maintained/prepared.

Totally agree Baz. Titanium pistons, forged rods/crank...it was set up to be boosted Watch the aftermarket scene take the new engine to town. Nissan had big expectations to fulfill but I think they did it (at least with the engine anyway) ... Nobody foresaw the weight gain though.

They look like 3 piece Advan copys. Wow what did you do to your dad's car!? At least your truthful about it lol Whats exactly wrong with the engine? Manual?