Tomei_Powered

BUMP!

Cyl. Head Ported and Polished RB25DET Cyl. Head COMETIC 1.5mm MLS H/G TOMEI Procams 260 Degree 10.25mm Intake Camshaft TOMEI Procams 260 Degree 10.25mm Exhaust Camshaft TOMEI Procams 10.25 Lift Type B Valve Springs TOMEI Forged Solid Lifters Conversion TOMEI Cam Pulley IN/EX TOMEI Adjust Shims Block [/b]Bored and Coated RB25DET Block WISECO 87mm Forged Pistons RB26DETT Conrods RB26DETT Crankshaft ACL Coated Main & Rod Bearings I will include the following parts together with the motor APEXI Power FC GREDDY Timing Belt (Change 6,000km ago), NGK Iridium plugs SARD 550cc injectors Intake Manifold Ex Manifold Injector looms Fuel Rail Im just looking at $7,000.00 for the whole motor and parts. Engine runs strong. Previously this motor had bearings problem due to stuck oil cooler which i took pretty long to locate the fault. Bearings have been changed recently. Engine was dynoed 388whp@6000rpm with 1.4bar on a GT35R turbo. It will easily hit 420whp-450hp which i have not dynoed. Dyno was done on a DynoDynamics dyno. Reason im selling because im too tired maintaining my car and decided to sell it. It took me too much time, patience and money building this engine and will put a stop to it. Hope to buy a house soon. Will be putting in a stock motor inside that i have kept for spare.

BUMP!

SARD 550CC Side Feed For RB25DET Bought last Aug 08' (Car is used only on weekends) $550 shipped.

BUMP!

Immaculate Condition Apexi Power FC w/Commander. Came off from a R33 GTSt. Suits all RB25DET engines. $1300 shipped to anywhere in Aus.

Thanks for your input guys. Will have all the bearings remove tomorrow and will take the crank for balancing. Will have the pics up by tomorrow. Could it be the crank was moved or bent? Anyway my specs are below. Im using a RB26 crank (I think it was from a R34 cos the JUN oil pump fits without any collar issue) with a RB25 block Wiseco RB26 pistons GTR Rods ACL Bearings JUN Oil pump HKS Oil cooler RB25 cyl. head Ran a good 388whp on dyno and few more runs on street before i felt this oil pressure problem. Anyway, does a quad plate clutch have anything to do with the oil pressure problem? I just want to know how and why the bearings failed. Hope this thread will help others to gain experience and hope it wont happen to anyone of us here again. Cheers.

Sory, its the camera flash. Bearings ran close 3k mileage. No restrictors. Problem is, i dont have a catch can. Oil pump was JUN. Bought new. HKS oil cooler and Motul oils. This is just crap! I just wanna find out the cause of it. Least i know whats the problem now..

Im not sure if my oil cooler is the cause of it. Car was tuned and made 388whp @ 6200+/- rpm. Actually we felt something was not right after a few runs. Basically the hp wont go up anymore after 6000k rpm.

Pics

I had ACL bearings on my conrods and main bearings and it all shrank like an mm to 2mm from their actual size when removed. Bearings can be taken off by just a slight touch instead of sliding them off with some force. Practically the bearings were just floating. What could be the cause of bearings shrinking?

Im closing this sale due to the fall of exchange rate. Im still open for offers. Looking at high $3s. Cheers.

Price reduced $1,900.00

Im still open for offers. Cheers.

Ill try puuting a catch tank in tomorrow and see what happens. Feels like engine is taking in too much air..

Could gearing/transmission/clutch comes to a issue here? I felt the gear change was a lil too 'bitty' when i was changing from 3rd to 4th gear. Just for info, Im running a Ogura quad plate. Oil pressure feels pretty weird. As i accelerate (2k - 3k +/- rpm) (0-0.2bar boost) oil pressure will drop to 2bar and below instead of going up to 4bar ish (that was when i monitored during good runs). But once the throttle is realeased, when the blow off releases air the oil pressure goes up to 3bar. So its accelerate = oil pressure (-) decelerate = oil pressure (+)

Im not running a catch can atm. Its a s/s braided hose routed straight out and down to the ground. Well, im not sure if the oil from my undercarriage is from the hose(catch can) or from the road tarmac. I dont see much smoke. Will do a comp. test tommorrow. Is a freshly built engine that my mate, a qualified mechanic and i built. Engine had ran a healthy 2,000 kms run in before dyno tuning. Engine was dynoed with 10w40 viscosity MOTUL 4100 semis. Earlier i thought it was the engine oil viscosity breaking down so i changed to the 300v 15w50s but still no improvement. Engine sounds fine. No sound of bearings failure.

Im running a RB25DET and car was okay after dyno tuned. Oil pump was replaced with a JUN oil pump, bearings were replaced, pistons, rods and crank were from a RB26dett. I was getting 388whp running a GT35R. Just a week after my dyno run i took it for a run on the streets. Full boost from 3rd to 4th gear @ 6,500+/-rpm and everything felt normal.. *Just that at around 4,500+/- rpm the engine rev felt a lil 'abnormal'. The sound of the engine rev was kinda rough for 4,500+/-rpm-ish. The rev feels and sound pretty high but its just 4,500+/- rpm? After i slowed down and put to a stop my oil pressure was reading a low 1.5bar near 0! Rev it, oil pressure goes up but it goes up so much slower than before. Car felt laggish and dying on me. Changed the oil but still no improvement. My oil pressure normally reach 8.0bar during the first start up but now its around 6.0ish. Any input will be much appreciated! Checked most of the parts. No oil leaks, no loose hoses and no loose belts. Oil level maintained.

Any defects we should know off? Whats your best offer mate?

Could it be just a clamp hold loose on a coupling? Check all your silicone couplings and clamps. I had that whinning sound before. It sounded very much like a average size twin ball bearing turbo but louder. It sounded like spool came much faster.

Turbos sold!

HKS 2530 Turbos taken out from R34 GTR. Comes with HKS actuators. Minimal shaft play. $1800.00 shipped. Not willing to separate atm. Pics will be loaded soon.

Will upload the pictures tomorrow.

Im selling my ORC quad plate clutch (ORC1000) supports 1000hp. Model : ORC1000 Rated HP : 1000hp Meat left : 95% Fits any RB with push type clutch. Price @ $2200.00

Model : TS2CD Rated HP : 600hp Meat left : 70% Fits any RB with push type clutch. Price @ $950.00 This is a 600hp clutch kit not the 480hp. PM me if interested.