zafeniak

I know you said 10 PSI, and I replied, that 20 PSI on a T88 would still be in the turbos efficiency range, and then I asked you a question, but what do you think will happen to the engine runnign 20 PSI with a T88"?

I know, I never said you can't increase HP via other means... You answered the question yourself. Simple premises, and I'll define them for you... Ready? Premis 1: In the sentence above, you expressly admit that more HP will increase the likelihood of engine damage. Premis 2: We all know for a fact that winding up the boost increases horse power. Conclusion: If you wind up the boost, you will increase horsepower, and thus, increase the likelihood of engine damage. Was that simple enough for you?

Mate what don't you understand? I seriously don't know how else to explain it to you, I am beginning to think your retarded.... This is the simplest way I can put it, don't give me a bullshit answer, just 'A' or 'B': What car do you think will last longer, a car running 25 PSI (A), or a car running 10 PSI (B). Now you may say, "yes, but with supporting mods and good tune blah blah blah you can run 25 PSI safely" Ok, fine, have it your way, even if the car does have the supporting mods to handle 25 PSI, do you think it will last longer on 25 PSI or 10 PSI. Don't forget, ANSWER THE QUESTION, A or B? Seriously, it's not that hard understand. If you answered A, I should slap you senseless with my dick. If you answered B, I am glad that what I've said finally got through that retarded head of yours.

Did I hit a soft spot? Mi scuzi.... No need to get upset now and have a teary. If you go a problem with me, PM me, I'll be more than happy to fix you up, as I said, stop high-jacking the thread. Start your own thread if you want to argue about boost levels. MORE BOOST = MORE DAMAGE full stop! Cheers

dude, your doing it again lol, when did I say that boost is SOLEY is wear inducing?? I believe it is a contributing factor, but I never said solely.... As I said before, please read what I've written. Secondly, I wrote IMO anything ABOVE 17 PSI ain't too good for stock internals, so how does this equate to 1 bar(14.3PSI)???? Cheers

DOOOD, stop rambling and learnt o read stop writing things that I never wrote about. quote '' Your doing well at 50 posts telling ppl, that 1bar is about the limit for a stock RB25'' When did I ever write that? Learn to read... By the way, it's common sense, more boost = more damage all things remaining the same. Now, knowing you, you'll say "yeh, but not with the right supporting mods and a good tune" Everytime you turn the boost up, the life expectancy of you car decreases. Yes you can get mods to slow this rate down, along with a good tune, nonetheless, it will be a quicker rate than had you run 15 psi in comparison to 20 PSI. I haven't seen a car been able to run 250,000 km on stock internals running 20PSI, have you? Anyway, the thread is not about that, if you got concerns, please PM me and stop high jacking this thread. Cheers

Yes, but remember, increase in engine temperature, increase in combustion pressure, increase in power etc etc are symptoms.... Symptoms of what you ask? The casue, BOOST

Not only that, but there in only so much pressure the engine and cooler piping can take before there is a large amount of back pressure created to the turbo. Simple phyics, have you ever noticed the fan in your bathroom spins faster with the door or window open? Same principle with the turbo, maybe 20PSI will place unnecessary back pressure on your turbo and will force it to work harder ie. you'd be damaging your turbo. Anyway, IMO, the standard internals were not build to handle that much pressure, I think 16-17 PSI is the absolute maximum people should be running with their after market turbines with standard internals. Cheers

So basically, your telling me, with correct setup ie. making sure AFRs are correct, bigger injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, cooler etc etc etc. AND a very good tune, that boost wont effect the engine? This is how I interperet what you are saying: Car A with the correct setup and a good tune running 20 PSI, compared to car B that also has the correct supporting mods however running only 15 PSI, will last as long and be just as reliable as car B. That doesn't seem right to me. Moreover, you stated that "Abnormally high combustion pressures and temperatures that kills motors". Now, what do you think happens when you increase your boost? I'll tell you what happens: 1) Turbo spins faster since it needs to create more pressure (eg, winding up boost from 15 to 20 PSI), and due to the faster spinning motion, it creates heat, which is transfered to the intake mainfold. Hence, engine temps will increase. 2) Since the turbo is creating more pressure and is directing that pressure to the engine, there will be higher combustion pressure. Thus, your statement is contradictory. "Abnormally high combustion pressures and temperatures that kills motors... Not boost. " Increasing boost CAUSES these things to happen, no matter HOW good your tune is. Furthermore, when I wind up the boost, I noticed an increase in water temps on the Power FC. So, in conclusion, yes, boost DOES and CAN kill your engine.

GT-RS: There were 3 figures greater than or equal to 250 rwkw (excluding that insane figure of 301 rwkw) 250 rwkw @ 16.5 PSI 255 rwkw @ 14.3 (1 bar) I think he had after market cams, not sure? 255 rwkw @ 16 PSI I think a couple of more pounds of boost ie. 17 - 18 PSI and the GT-RS will max out on its efficiency range (ie. marginal cost will exceed the marginal benefit) IMO, I think anything above 17 PSI wont be to good for the rods etc. People always look at the best figures the GT-RS pulls out in the dyno threads (natural bias), what about those 2 people running the GT-RS running 15 PSI and only managed to get 229 RWKW, makes one seriously consider the high-flow option from GCG......

Those people have been dropped from my calculations. Moreover, any outliers (such as those people whom managed to obtain 300rwkw+ with a GT-RS) have not been included in my calculation in order to provide an accurate average with a normal distribution (otherwise, we'd have to start using medians). Thus, the results I posted up remain very accurate. Please, feel free to do them yourself if you think I've left something out. P.S - GCG going over 250 rwkw was VERY rare. There was only 2 people in my sample of 15 with the GCG turbo that got over 250rwkw and I believe both had aftermarket cams. Furthermore, I did not take into addition any GCG turbos with a VG30 exhaust Housing, only r33 exhaust housings.

The turbo KIT only comes in the 0.68 a/r. Yes, I know you can get the turbo in the 0.87 WITHOUT the kit.

Yes, $2,300.00, not including the $200 delivery, $100 duty fees, and $200 GST (tax). In otherwords, $2,800.00 delivered to your door.

Yes, cars do differ with the same turbo. Don't forget, once the GCG turbo is pushed (16 PSI and above) You will need a stronger diaphram for the wastegate or a stronger spring as you will see alot of wastegate creep. GCG turbos become VERY inefficient after 16 PSI and are un reliable from what I've read. More importantly, we are looking at averages here, yes, you do get the occasional turbo that pulls good results such as yours. I also found a GT-RS turbo pulling 300 rwkw. THis is why I am working based on averages.

Maybe so, nonetheless, the 2835 Pro S kit only comes with the 0.68 A/R.

22 PSI?! Yeh, and watch you standard internals go BOOM in a couple of weeks lol. Decisions Decisions..... I seriously don't know which one to go for.... I love the HKS turbos, but they are so expensive when you take into account what you are getting.

I also forgot to add, the HKS GT2835 Pro S kit comes with a split dump, whereas the GT-RS doesn't I dont think, am I right?

Hi guys, I went through the RB25 dyno thread very carefully and found these results: Basically, I averaged all the power outputs for each turbo and averaged the PSI the person was running. Here it is: HKS GT-RS: Cost $2,850 (full kit) Average output was 243rwkw at 15.5 PSI HKS GT2835 Pro S: Cost $3,600 (full kit) Average output was 244rwkw at 15 PSI GCG Highflow: Cost $1,950 Average output was 230 at 14.5 PSI Garret GT3071R by GCG: Cost $2,600 (full kit without intake pipe) Average output was 248rwkw at 15.4 PSI. Now, I want to achieve around 260rwkw +- 7rwkw, thus, the GCG highlow is automatically out of the picture. I am beginning to doubt that the GT-RS can make figures of around 260rwkw, unless you push the hell out of it (18 + psi) which wont be too good for the rods at that level of pressure. I am intending to run 16 PSI and I want to achieve no less than 253 rwkw. I am supprised how crap the results were for the HKS GT2835 Pro S, I thought most people would be getting around 270 rwkw, considering how much people talk up that turbo. Anyone had any personal experience with GCG and their GT3071R turbo? any reviews? I guess it's really a toss between the 2835 Pro S and the GT3071R. Considering the GT3071R is $1,000 cheaper, seems like a pretty good buy? What do you guys think? The HKS GT2835 Pro S is such a nice, very well talked about turbo, just the results aren't up their, sooooo disappointing. There's hardly any difference between the GT-RS and the 2835 Pro S, and people pay an extra $800? soooo not worth it IMO.

Full boost is on 4300 rpm, that's laggy if you ask me.... I'd be running about 16 PSI, so about 4100 RPM full boost, still, pretty laggy.... That's like 1000 rpm more than the GT-RS. And whats with the boost drop? Faulty actuator maybe or boost controller?

3400! Where from!?!

greenline have the whole kit for sale (HKS GT2835 Pro S): http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...category=engine Cost 277,000 yen = $2880 Shipping 13,000 yen = $135 Tax is $144 (2880x 5%) GST is $315 ((2880x5%)+2880+ shipping)x10% Total is $3,474.00 inclusive of all taxes and delivery. Now, I am not implying anything, but I am sure you know alot of these sellers mark their goods as gifts, thus, avoid tax. Hence, I could get the product $459.00 cheaper... Does anyone have a dyno graph of someone using the HKS GT2835 Pro S with the 0.68A/R? Will I still be able to make above 260rwkw with the 0.68? Thanks for your responses and help.

Also, I can't seem to find the complete kit anywhere apart from greenline, selling it for $3518.00 AUD delivered including taxes, however, it is not specific on what the kit includes... Is it just the lines and gaskets, or does it come with the dump and elbow for the cooler? It would be much appreciated if one of you guys could send me a link to a seller that sells the whole kit so I know what I need to get. Also, a shop bd4s performance in Australia offerred me the kit for $3,700, is this too much? 0.68 or 0.87... is there that much diff?

I was after the 0.87 A/R as is it a little bigger, thus more top end power ( but yes, a little more lag), Is the the turbo that comes with the kit the 0.87 or the 0.68? Also, if I did choose to get the 0.87 and decided to run 16 PSI, at what RPM do you think it'll hit full boost (ie 16 PSI), no more than 4,000 I hope...?? Also, is the actuator adjustable on the GT2835 Pro S? And finally, is there a big difference between the 0.68 and the 0.87? Someone wrote that they got 12 rwkw less with the 0.68...

So the kit you speak of includes a dump (which I will have to get the front pipe flange changed), and an intercooler adapter? Maybe I should go the GT-RS, It comes with all the lines, gaskets nuts etc...??? I am just not a bit fan of the GT-RS, people with aftermarket cams have only seen about 250 rwkw, which is pretty crap if you ask me for a $2600 + turbo.

Hi guys, I reside in the ACT and was wondering if you can obtain a pink slip (road worthy certificate) with aftermarket turbo and ECU? cheers