turbomad

FMIC with the usuall mods of more boost, exhaust, filter etc... won't yield great results without the introduction of at least an SAFC or full replacement ECU, as those mods generally see the A/F ratio run deep into the 10:1's, but once the A/F is returned to a respectable 12:1 that's when the results come. With FMIC, exh, stock turbo my car made 168rwkw, with the SAFC tuned at 11.8:1 it made 188rwkw@12psi, only 20kw more in peak power but power was up all through the rev range and the greatest gain was at 5500rpm where it made 44kw more.

Well I've never seen the stock turbo make 200rwkw with the standard intercooler, so there's definately more power to be had, I imagine another 30rwkw would be on the cards with a FMIC. 1/4 mile times for your current setup should be mid-low 13's, with the FMIC you can certainly crack a high 12 if you can get the power to the ground, I've noticed alot of peoples times don't drop much with the increase of power but the mph do go up indicating not much traction, so in my opinion any thing over 230rwkw must have slicks to race with or your just wasting your time.

I can recommend the Profec B, on the dyno with the boost displayed digitally in remained within 0.1 of a psi to the set limit. The low setting is good for situations where a bit of wastegate creep is needed eg. in the wet or heavy traffic, you won't get full boost at light throttle, but in high there is no wastegate creep at all as I can have 12psi at less than 30% throttle.

I had a look at the comp housing on the XR6t and it was only .50A/R, which I thought was strange considering the gt28 I want has a .70A/R, the next time I see one on a hoist I will check the A/R of the turbine housing, if it's only .64 as I suspect it may very well be a good upgrade for a RB25, however I doubt we'll get any cheap used ones as there rumoured to be able to make 300rwkw on the XR6 so not too many people are going to need a larger turbo.

This is how I've set mine up, on the back I've selected the overboost setting which is SELECTOR buttons 4 & 1 in the ON position and 3 & 2 OFF. With the balance knob I have it virtually all the way over to the SHARP side, on this setting it holds boost steady all the way to redline. So if you start in the middle position and boost falls as RPM increases then turn it towards the MILD side, but if boost rises with RPM then turn it towards the SHARP side.

Just a thought I had on this lightened flywheel, it weighs 6kg versus 9kg for the stockie, the Ogura one from Japan REV210 has is 4.8kg , it also costs another $200 though, I don't want to discourage any one from getting it from Horsepowerinabox as I'm interested in getting one aswell, I just thought maybe is it worth asking NENGUN if he could do a better price for a group buy, want do you think? Also would the extra 1.2kg lighter be even noticed?

I've got the Hybrid Supercooler and I can highly recommend it, rather than buy it in kit form just get the cooler for $880 and buy the mandrel stainless bends and have an engineer shop weld them up for you, surely the pipe work isn't worth the $620 there asking for, I mean mine only cost about $100.

Not that I've noticed, no.

Aren't HSV Monaro's only 255kw? I thought only HSV GTS Commodore's were 300kw?

Yes regarding the thermal wrap, I went to check some out at Autobarn and on the pack it said "warning-may shorten the life of metal" so I thought stuff that, I feel the turbo spools up plenty quick enough for me so I didn't think it worth it anyway.

It would be a great turbo for RB20 and RB25's, according to a Performance shop in Adelaide they are rated at 400hp but can make 500hp in the right setup, they are supposed to spool up very similar to a stock RB25 turbo but with much improved mid-high power output. You need an adaptor plate to bolt them on a RB20-25 ($200) but you would need one for the GT30 aswell coz the .70 comp cover hits on the stock manifold so I'm told.

Gianni, I can definitly recommend the dump/front pipe, once you get the stock dump off take a bolt into a bolt shop and ask for the same thread with a hex nut head instead of the socket head that's all, I used the standard bolts and found the middle two extremely difficult to do up that's why I recomend using the hex ones. Check EBAY aswell as Flyn sell them there for a $230 starting bid. And no I don't have a hiflow cat but it is just over 2.5" ID so I haven't worried about changing it.

You like my grandpa slippers aye! Damn I tried to conceal them and everything. OK back to the questions, the pipe does not touch any part of the car so there is no vibrations, the pipe is basically your normal 3" round pipe but squashed to fit the shape of the rear of the turbo, so it cannot be any bigger unless the turbo was bigger. The biggest improvement is around the wastegate as the side on pic shows, the stock dump has the wastegate flow hit a wall and then have to squeeze into the main section. Directly after the turbo the dump is only 2" ID because of the cast sections the factory has built into it so that a socket can fit over the bolt. (this is why I recommend the 2 hex bolts) At the end that bolts to the stock front pipe it is 2.25" ID. So the new dump basically goes out to 3" OD as soon as physically possible. On the road the car seems to rev out to it's redline alot quicker, I did have a 3" front pipe already on the car, so someone who only had a cat back exhaust will notice more difference, the change in flow may have upset my SAFC settings so the next Skyline Dyno day I will attend and be able to report any power increase or change in power curve.

Check the new post "Flyn Perf dump pipe update" I've covered it in that.

I agree that it sounds like an exhaust gas leak, a friends VL turbo made a similar noise, he took it to a so called turbo mechanic who said it's rebuild time, before that he thought he'd check it over himself and discovered that the bolts from the turbo to the manifold were loose, I believe the turbo shop would have thought that all along and would have recieved $800+ for simply tightening a few bolts.

I grinded the inside a little aswell to remove some dags and improve flow....

For all those interested I installed the dump pipe today, it all bolted up perfectly. You will need to grind a little of the welds off near some bolt holes so the bolt sits flat, while were talking bolts do yourself a favor and get two allen head bolts to replace the two centre bolts as you can't get a socket over these as there right up against the pipe, otherwise it all went well. As you can see from this pic the main benefit is around the wastegate area....

I just got my dump/front pipe from FLYN Performance, I will let you know how it bolts up when I get time to fit it.

The SAFC will certainly correct your A/F ratio and smooth out and increase your power band, if the hiflowed turbo doesn't exceed the power level of the stock injectors and Airflow meter (220-230rwkw) then the SAFC will work, but otherwise you will need the PowerFC.

Well I was set to buy the SS dump offer that was advertised in the for sale section, but the next time I looked it was withdrawn so I went with the next cheapest one I could find. Why was it withdrawn?

Well the GT28 I was referring to is internally wastegated and supposedly rated at 400hp? I would be dissappointed at the GCG hiflow only making 235rwkw at a wopping 18psi, most people are getting close to if not 200rwkw out of the stock turbo at 13psi or less? Doesn't add up to me.

Why pay extra for stainless? I had a mild steel exhaust on my VL turbo for 8 years and it was fine, who really keeps a car long enough that it would outlast an exhaust system and need replacing to warrant the higher cost of stainless? Also check EBAY as Flying Performance sell there too, I got mine for $235.

What I'd like is a Garret GT28, A/R-.70 comp/.64 exh, it requires an adapter to bolt to the RB25 manifold but will make around 230rwkw with around 13-14psi and will spool up pretty close to the factory turbo. The GT30 will make more power but with some extra lag.

Hello go to www.flyn.com.au they have them there for $280, they also have cat's, exhausts and other high performance stuff.

Yes it did do 560rwhp on Sat@7000rpm (losing traction), it's best was 680rwhp @9000rpm in QLD somewhere.