
MATT_R33
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Everything posted by MATT_R33
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hi guys. i have finally had enough of repairing and re spraying my front fibreglass bar on my r33 gts-t. i have finally decided that i want to try and fit an original GTR front bar on my gts-t r33. i am pretty sure that to make it all fit right i'll have to fit the GTR guards, bonnet, headlights, grill etc to make it all work. i've never seen a car with standard gts-t rear guards and the wider front GTR guards?? does this look silly at all and is all this possible?? e.g. will the harness in my gts still plug into the GTR headlights etc...?? if this topic is already on here somewhere please advise where and i thankyou for all your help i advance.
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yes but most cars blinkers will stay on when you click it the wrong way though. thats the way it is in most cars in the world. just seems that a couple cars i have driven lately do it the way my skyline does. if its the way it is standard then i guess i'll just deal with it i guess. it becomes habit after a while anyway because you expect it to happen.
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hi guys. not sure if this has been spoken about or not. i haev a S2 r33 97 model and if for example you put your blinker on to turn right as you come up to a roundabout and then turn the wheel to the left a little tooo far, the blinker will click off. not sure if this is meant to happen or if there is something wrong with the blinker assembly in my car? i have driven other cars before that this happens on but they were brand new so i'm assuming its meant to happen on some cars? if it is then fair enough, but it is a bit of a pain sometimes so if skylines aren't meant to have this i'd like to know so i can fix it. thanks
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Making R33 Fibreglass Sub Box, Anyone Interested?
MATT_R33 replied to loftyfang's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
ok well i want one then if i could please. i can cut the hole myself if you have blanks. i do need one with a 10" hole abd due to my oz audio sub weighting about 20kgs i was actually planning on making a box myself with a 32mm front to cope with all the weight. and i was going to router out a a rim for the sub about 10mm deep. seeing yours on here just makes my life easier i guess. please let me know what you have avaliable and i am south of sydney in the shire but have no problems coming up to pick one up. let me know when is best for you and how much each box is please. i'm hoping to get one a.s.a.p. if possible. thanks -
Making R33 Fibreglass Sub Box, Anyone Interested?
MATT_R33 replied to loftyfang's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
hi. i need to know how much depth on the inside of the box is avaliable for the fat magnet on my 10" sub that i have to install. if there is enough room for me, what suburb do i pick up from in sydney?? -
Anyone Seen This R33 Kit In Australia?
MATT_R33 replied to MATT_R33's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
here is one pic. never posted a pic before so not sure how it works yet.... -
hi guys. i'm not sure if anyone has asked this before, if they have please direct me there. i was looking on google images and found an awesome bodykit from a company called JDL from Poland. the kits look really nicely made and really good quality and they ship worldwide. iw as just wondering if anyone knows if you can get them in australia and how much? also does anyone have any idea if proper plastic front bars are avaliable for r33's anywhere? fibreglass sucks!!
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hey guys. thanks for all your help. i just needed to have the guts to turn it up a few turn a just carefully boost and see how far it went. i re wired my switch to earth on one of the terminals so that the light worked on the switch. i mounted it on the bottom of the ashtray so it was out of site. bit of stuffing around to get the ashtray in once the gearboot facia peice was in, but after a little bit of filing and some jiggling it slotted in nicely. i mounted mine on the front of the strut tower. easy access to put a nut on from inside the wheel arch to hold the bracket on and there was already a thread just next to it for the earth to go on. i just sanded off some paint around the bolt hole. now all i have to worry about is trying to control myself and not have it on the high boost setting all the time. so tempting though. thanks for the tip on the dump pipes as well. i guess i'll just go in there and buy whatever i think is right at the time. i'm assuming they all have the right mounting holes for the oxygen sensor and all that?
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no i cant do that. the t-piece is part of the urbosmart kit and you cant take it off. Yes, my arrow is pointing the right direction, Towards the wastegate. i re wired my switch just to make sure it was working properly. because it had a little light in it i realised that it would need an earth. so with the car off and bonnet up last night i re wired the switch and listened for the BT to click in and it was. i've made sure my hose clamps are all still on and nice and tight and they all were. how much should i have to turn up the BT? it has 2 dials, 1 for off and one for on-Second stage. i guess i'm just a little hesitant to turn it up too much. i've probably turned it a full turn and thats it. should i be going way more? i've got a HKS boost gauge on my steering column and its in Bar, so i want it at about 0.8 right? i've got a cooler and a cat back exhaust. soon getting a front dump pipe. on that note.. has anyone ever heard of or used the $250 dump/front pipe from just jap in kirawee sydney? just wodnering what kind of quality i can expet if i buy one?
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hi guys. i just installed a turbosmart dual stage boost controller this arvo. all went well after reading a few different posts on here, however i have a few questions. firstly the std boost actuator valve that cuts in at 5000rpm and ups the boost a little had 2 hoses going to it. 1 went to a T pieve where it split to the intercooler pipe and the other end to the wastegate. the other hose came from under the intercooler piping that was kind og shaped like a U? does this make sense? i wasn't sure what to do with that one so i just blocked it with a screw. also the boost controler doesn't seem to be working in high low mode. it just sits on 0.5 bar and thats it. i didn't like the switch that came with the kit so i just went to jaycar and bought a nice little black switch that fit nicely into my ash tray. the only problem was that it had 3 prongs on the back of it. there was a little light on the button, so i figured that the middle one was to power the light?? not sure why i thought that because the light didn't come on. had power fmo the cigarette lighter on one side. wire from boost controller on the other... i'm assuming it should work? bofore i took it for a drive i could hear the solenoid in the boost controller clicking so i'm assuming it was working. maybe that extra hose has somethig to do with it? any help would be great guys. also just in case anyone was interested, i've just fitted EBC slotted and dimpled brake discs all around and RED stuff pads. had completely standard before. the new brakes work awesome and i've only driven them for about 15 mins so i assume they'll get even better. a few hard brakes and they felt bedded in and responsive. no vibrations or noise/groaning when coming to a stop. now it stops with MUCH greater power than before. thanks.
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hey guys. not really sure where i should post this, but general maintenance seemed to make sense. if this already exists please point me to where. i have just recently bought a s2 r33 gts and as most cars get after 10years it has some wear on the drivers seat along thedge where your pants rub when you get in and out. i went to a local trimmer who only had standard kind of velour to replace it with which looked completely different. just wondered if anyone knew where to get the original material? or if anyone has some gtr seats they's like to sell regardless of condition? thanks
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are control arm bushes or sway bar bushes expensive to buy and is it worth the hard polyurethane bushes? never used them as never needed to replace bushes in any car before? do they make much difference on the road? also is it possible to replace them by yourself? haven't had my skyline up on the hoist yet as i've only had it for a few weeks now. i'll probably need a press to change them wont i? i've been reading through the topics on this forum. it seems if i earth out the solenoid on the wastegate then it will run 7 pound all the time, but what about if i put a new dump pipe on it? its only std at the moment. will this increase the boost by maybe another 2 pound?
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hi. i'm only new on here and not sure if any of this has been covered before so if it has please direct me in the right direction. i have recently bought a r33 s2 which i love. i have a few issues though, when i drive up a driveway there is a really strange creaking/groaning sound from the rear end of the car. it has been lowered and i think that it does lift up one of the rear wheel when it goes up/down a driveway on the right angle. somebody mentioned it was the sound of the body just straining because of the lifting of the wheel? not really sure though... the other problem is that whenever i'm trying to park it nearly always stalls. nothing to do with the operating the clutch, it just struggles to want to idle sometimes. i'll slow down to park and with the clutch pedel pushed in, and my foot on the brake it will sometimes drop to like 300rpm for a few seconds then build back up or sometimes it will stall. if it doesn't stall at that moment, when i then reverse and feather the throttle it will nearly always stall then. never happens at traffic lights though so i dont get it?? haven't checked the plugs or anything but just wondered if it was something common with these cars that someone could help me with?? also my car is running 2.5" cat back exhaust. if i put a new dump pipe on it from turbo to cat will it change the sound at all and will the performance be noticeable? car is only running std boost at about 5 pound. my next question is with the front mount that it already has, what is max boost i can run safely and do i need to do anything to run more than 10 pound? i've heard i might have to install a bleed valve or something?
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hey guys. i'm a new addition to the skyline world. i have seen a link on ebay for not too much $$ and was wondering whether it was worth it? i have experienced in the past aftermarket computers that are tuned by the best people.. apparently, however there was always problems stating the engine and getting it to idle. how much like the standard computer is the link? and with only an exhaust and boost would it make a difference compared to the std computer? anyone know any tuners in sydney?