rondofj

Received a lot of interest but please no low ball offers

$750 last price, come get it before its gone

Bump...make some offers and grab em...

Genuine lightweight forged high-end Japanese made and with staggered offset to suit Skyline, Silvia, Supra, EVO, Subarus No tyres and slight gutter rash in two wheels. Prefer pickup but can organise freight if buying interstate. PCD - 5X114.3 18X8.0 +32 18X9.0 +40 $850 O.N.O. Ron - 0416424446 Pickup - Pitt St Parramatta NSW

Dunno about acc hooked to ignition, wont work with key out.

Ok so run direct feed to batt, what fuse or anything else do I need?

You got me wrong, I meant that the current draw is always 180-200mA even AFTER a few mins with everything off/doors shut etc. I stated the 'few minutes' because some car systems like alarms etc take a few minutes to fully shut down. I dont think theres anything else tee'ed onto the audio circuit though, the factory loom with green power cable goes right up to the radio. I was thinkin its either the head unit or the power supply cables shorted somewhere in the loom. Whats the best way to check, I've already wired direct power from battery to fuel pump via a 30A fuse and extra wire to battery. Can I tee a wire off this to the head unit?

Hey guys, did a parasitic current draw on my R34GTT- mounted multimeter in series to battery by removing -ve terminal and connecting to the terminal on battery and removed -ve terminal on wire. Pulling fuses one by one revealed that the audio circuit is eating 0.15ish Amps or 150mA with everything off/doors closed etc for few mins. Current draw should not be more than 50mA. Without fuse it is 50mA, still a bit high. All fuses on, current draw is 0.2-0.18A. (180-200mA) All it has is a basic Sony MOSFET cd player, standard speakers n tweeters, twin 6X9s in rear shelf, no amps or subs. Basic system. Removing/cutting audio power wire brings the current draw back to 50mA so thats the culprit. What to do from here? Is it likely a short in audio power wire or a malfunction in unit? Thanks.

Oh cool then, thanks champ

Took the f$$ker off and the TCS fuse back in- easy 30min job, no need to take off throttle body, just unscrew TCS butterfly from the front after taking off that annoying J pipe. So no TCS butterfly interrupting my performance now due to faulty TCS ECU/wheel sensor? and ABS system now re-enabled with the fuse back in. The TCS butterfly centre stem has a slot through its middle as you can see, will this impact performance?

Does anyone know if its possible to just pull off the J Pipe (one that houses the stock BOV) and remove the TCS butterfly with the throttlebody still bolted on? I cant even see the bottom 2 throttlebody bolts with that ugly TCS motor in the way lol

And weird that pulling fuse out doesnt trigger engine light, how would someone know if their fuse is blown n systems not working?

With all this talk of ABS, when I think of it there have been numerous instances during on/startup when all the lights go on, my ABS light takes 1-2,3 seconds longer to go out than the others. TCS/SLIP/HICAS lights never been on at all.

Ok will try that out, now Im kinda getting why the ABS shouldnt work, because ABS and TCS rely on the same wheel sensors n I've broken that circuit by pulling the TCS fuse? Best be I remove that TCS butterfly and put that fuse back in

Dunno how to check that? ABS lights not on?

I just pulled TCS fuse, lights gone. Sensors all connected

I would assume the same as TPS?, theres a THRTM voltage in powerfc sensor check - (throttle motor sensor).

And yes Ben thats the butterfly position sensor that GTSBoys talking about, its similar to the TPS which is on the other side

Good that its sorted now, lots of useful lessons learnt about sensors and which one does what and when and how the system works together, even better tested and confirmed that 'most' of my vital sensors and the engines in great health, thanks in a large part to SAU members for all the great help, guys like GTSBoy, Ben C34 and some others

Good point Brad, what I understand as you say it, the powerfc doesnt regard the TCS as anything so my mixtures shouldnt be affected regardless if the butterfly is there or not or if its open/close. So off the butterfly goes- two screws right? Wonder if I can do it from front with throttle body pipe fixed as I dont wana remove that, all that waiting/running round for new T/B gasket. Kinkstaah, is the TCS button supposed to flip back to its original position right after pressing it? Mine does, like a spring, press button from left to right and it comes back to the left

I did think of that, but the ecu would have measured less air hence less fuel and with no butterfly = more air/less fuel, is it possible I will be getting lean-out /danger ? Even for 5 seconds. Even though the TCS wasnt causing this temporary power loss with Nistune it was still not stopping any wheelspin from takeoffs and spirited 2nd/3rd runs either - does this indicate a rooted TCS ecu or sensor? Didnt know about the lack of ABS with no TCS- no good this

Forgot to add - with the TCS disconnected as is now, it seems like I have suddenly gained massive power and torque through the mid and high rpms especially noticeable in 2nd and 3rd, its pretty insane the amount of grunt that I was 'missing' because my TCS plate was possibly partly/slightly closed even under all driving conditions. Feels easily around 320rwkw now from seat of pants feel

Thread wake up from the dead... I finally found this elusive motherf**ing problem plaguing my ride for more than a year after the PowerFC tune. To recap - R34GTT running Precision 5558 0.63a/r 290rwkw @ 22psi on 98. Problem was a massive power loss around 60-70% for at least 4 to 5 seconds when downshifting especially going up hills and also on those low rpm drives below 50km/h- slowing down, turning and climb up a right angled incline in 2nd or 3rd. The power loss is felt after slowing and turning. Also felt in some upshifts but to a much lesser extent and generally when high rpms. The power loss was so bad that uphill felt like it just wouldn't make it if it lasted a few seconds longer. The result of this thread was numerous tests including swapping AFM, CAS, new O2 sensor, new plugs, new oil, new air filter (general service), disconnecting/connecting MAP sensor, adjusting TPS to 0.46V, removing n cleaning IACV, disconnecting/connecting it, blocking stock plumb back BOV with plate, checking temp sensor and other voltages thru PFC controller etc, even posting up my tune file for members to check. Getting tuner to check a couple times as well. Nope even they found 'nothing wrong' with my car...really... As well as that many people suggested my BOV entry angle to turbo intake wasn't ideal and it was possibly causing reversion, change that they said. NO I said, not convinced because I know fully well under what conditions it was happening and a lot of times under no boost as well. Read other generic stuff online about traction control, popped bonnet, disconnected TCS sensor plug near firewall and bingo - instant transformation! New car from go, absolutely NO power loss or hesitation under these conditions, tested many times to confirm, that was it! Bloody TCS sensing slip when there was non/negligible and partly closing TCS butterfly for a full 5 seconds. Yet under normal takeoff / boosting while running and shifting to 2nd or 3rd etc with lots of wheelspin it doesn't sense any slip or close butterfly as it should -( the power is there from seat feel). Thinking it aint been properly tuned around in PowerFC am I right? Or dodgy TCS. This didnt happen at all with my previous Nistune and same all else setup. One problem with disconnecting plug is the check engine light code. So I connected that back on and removed the 15A TCS fuse instead. No check engine light now and no TCS messing up my car = win -win! Ask why I dont simply switch off my TCS switch - when I bought the car, was told that TCS dont work, I have never seen the TCS/SLIP and HICAS lights to this day (maybe globes removed?). Even the switch doesnt lock to its new position when 'switching' it, it comes back to its original position like a spring. is this how its supposed to be? My TCS does seem to be working (from all the problems its caused me) albeit very incorrectly..