rondofj

that little dip in orange and yellow closest to viewer - just two values of 30 affect this.

Not exactly a map tracer but this table shows where my map tracer cells roughly are during a normal drive(top yellow blob) and then downshifting (bottom blob) this is where they go and the car becomes an ass for 4-5 seconds... Edit - I would probably move that second blob 3 cells down - thats more where it goes to.

I found that 'wedge' on the timing map is because of the two timing values 30 on the N20 cell highlighted here (highest rpm/ lowest load). I can smooth that out- dunno why they left such a big jump but I doubt that will make the map any 'better' - when does anyone ever reach redline at min load?

I have been monitoring AFM voltages with the commander - idle is always alternating 1190-1250V ish, and I had to switch my afm warning off in powerfc because high rpm/boost runs always bring on the engine light at 4.8V+ in 2nd and 3rd. AFM voltage peaks too much, AFM settings is actually 100% for every voltage readout uptil 5.12V in the afm calibration table. Datalogit kit is money wasted just to diagnose a problem, I dont even have a laptop haha, will a wideband with gauge just do? Johnny I wana borrow your AFM for 30mins on the weekend lol

It looks odd to me though, but then again I wouldn't know if its normal as you said..

I wouldnt be best placed to comment - hence my posting - waiting for the gurus GTSBoy, Scotty, BadGaz, XKLABA and others...does it (my maps) look alright?

JPEGS now

See attached fuel n timing maps - seems like an unwanted 'wedge' in a part of the timing map (orange/ yellow) Ron R34GTT Fuel Map.pdf Ron R34GTT Timing Map.pdf

Ive got my inj map on an excel file, will pdf n post when I get to work, do u need the timing map too?

Ok thanks I will try to write it all down n send to you soon when I get time

If thats the case that means I can see from the map trace what afrs its running by noting the cells then going to the inj map to check the afr of the cell? Tedious but

Yeh I will do that. Could you explain the map trace a bit- theres the fuel n timing maps, both 20X20 cells. I assume the car can be at only one specific point at a time on both fuel/timing maps - eg row 3, column 10- means that it has to be row 3, column 10 on BOTH maps and this is what the map trace shows right? It shows that specific point (r3, c10). My fuel map is shown in 'percent' values I think- the idle cells are generally 098,097,100 etc. I assume that this is a ratio of the stoich ratio 14.7:1 ie 098 is 14.7/0.98=15:1 AFR am I correct?

Overfuelling. Both plugs n O2 sensor were fouled. O2 replaced. Temp sensor to ECU works n displays correct temps but not ideal - usu 76-78C this winter. I dont blame tune cos before the recent power loss it was running really great sometimes (only 25% of the time) but not all the time, but still overfuelling - poor fuel economy n fuel smell. So what else can it be- AFM is all my little brain can think of..

Your right, would my carbon-fouled plugs be a big part of my power loss or is that more like a secondary thing to look at later?

From todays driving I can confirm that now theres absolutely NO bouncing idle and jerky/hesitation/roughness in the 1500-2000rpms band and idles possibly a wee bit smoother- this with new O2 sensor n feedback ON as recommended by Yavuz. The O2 voltage is also in the 0-0.1V band under idle and alternating quickly when driving as it should, generally in the 0.1-0.2V band during low rpm driving- previous shagged O2 sensor would always be at 0.5-0.7V(rich). But I still have a dramatic power loss as from the last 3 weeks- boosts to 22psi but no power/hard to spin in 2nd even whereas before you could just stab so lightly and spin at will. Before it also used to rev a fair bit quicker, now not. Boost leaks have been tested twice and I've killed myself fixing these. Nothing else changed, base timings 15deg as checked/set with light off no1 plug n also confirmed by power fc readout. Havent touched any timing/fuel maps so cant be these. So I suspect its still running rich - water temp goes to 76-78C as usual, once went to 81C on a hotter day. So where the hells my power gone? Bloody AFM again? Buying a wideband in a week or two to check afrs then I dunno next step. Need to have my power back and the fuel economy back (will be tested now Ive replaced the O2) before fixing the bov entry which is the least of my concerns right now.

Update so far- just replaced my O2 sensor with the NTK R33 sensor- cut off plug n crimp wires- works. Pics- left one is stock R34 sensor when I bought car 4yrs ago and after a year of use. Right one is the O2 sensor I replaced yesterday- as u can see running pig rich, also confirmed by spark plug pics earlier. Havent test driven yet but dont expect massive improvements. Lookin for a stock GTT fuel reg- wrecker wanted 50 bucks told him see ya later All this to solve my loss of power, huge fuel use, bouncing idle( havent had bouncing idle in ages), inconsistent running sometimes, not much now though. Main issue is a fair bit of power/torque loss and fuel use- finding it not so easy to spin 2nd now as before- not that I want to. The power loss at downshifts and also some upshifts is most possibly the bov entry angle and doesnt bother me for now till I get these other issues sorted.

Now we're going to Whitecastle ...

That comments half retarded and maybe sarcastic. What is dodgy about my afm, its not a fake z32, my coils being cheap dont mean its not legit, although thats possible (car dont have symptoms of bad coils does it?!). It was n still is advertised as genuine nissan OEM items. As for leaks, everyones got some and mines largely sorted. And I dont have issues with my Gates belt, most people run one dont they, and I would use one again! So that just leaves the bov entry...

One thing is if you downshift and dont suddenly give it load, ie doubleshift/doubleclutch or wait a second or two before engaging the clutch the car wont bog down and lose power like it normally does., it will hook up well n go.

When I took it to tuner it had Nistune so no bogging down under downshifts/load, no bouncing idle, no stickiness' at 1500-2000, but yes all other probs- it was very thirsty and intermittent ly running rough/crap now n then long before that. Same boost. And yes absolutely NO knocking over 20-30 with O2 sensor plugged in and feedback enabled. Yesterday the intake was really really hot with O2 unplugged thats why it knocked I think. Possibly running too lean

So my 1 channel monitor (ign timing) shows that normal 40-60,80km/h street driving under 3k rpms sees the timing move in the region 20-40 ish, depending on revs/load; high boost/high rpm n crazy speeds sees very low timing going down to 10ish, definitely 10s. Shifting UP the timing will drop to 10,15 etc for a second when shifting/releasing throttle. Shifting DOWN sees the timing go UP to high 40s, (highest 48) for a second before normalising in the 20-30 band. Is this why I feel the laaaaag/power loss, do other areas of timing sound right??

More bov entry angle/intake pipe pics for you fellas, dont look too bad hey.. Scotty, GTSBoy, Johhny..will be changed nws, but last thing after all else

Condition of plugs from cyl 1,2 & 5, also see the top of cylinders where they sit. Doesnt seem to be running too rich (black) or too lean (white) ie the plugs, but maybe a bit on the rich side?

GTX3071 0.84 rear, low mount stock mani, E85, done.

My car wouldnt even idle with AFM unplugged- how can some of u drive without one?