rondofj

Scotty, the tuner says that at that point the ecu is dumping tons of fuel and retarding the timing like a mofo, this problem is not intermittent but constant, hence he decided the afm is ok- said to look at the entry angle of the bov return, relocating afm etc- but I doubt this would solve the issue- with Nistune and same all else this problem didnt exist- he said filters in Nistune mask the problem out- Im like really.. My cars been running rough again lately with O2 feedback off- do I disconnect the O2 plug too ?? cos the powerfc is still reading the sensor voltage and its variable volts with throttle input.

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators

GTSBoy yes the map tracer leaps down/south towards the higher load areas- literally jumps 5-6 cells-- r&r basically

In top condition, a used Turbosmart Boost Tee manual boost controller - held an absolutely rock steady 22psi in my R34; I switched to an EBC. $60 plus postage Pickup - Pitt Street, Parramatta NSW Ron - 0416424446 PS - brand new costs $104 from Turbosmart

Same deal unblocked. That is why it was blocked- to test it

Yeh that was the only mod, block off bov after tune - and yes they don't bloody know what the problem is lol..

Thanks mate, you fellas are real legends

Nope both wires joined together and onto ECU as per SAU tutorial. I was actually thinking of wiring one to chasis but decided no go. By bad ground I mean check the earths from ECU, battery and other problem spots, clean metal, sand-papered joints etc. Think I'm goin to perfect my TPS adjustment to 0.45V instead of 0.41V, idle is 200-300rpms higher with O2 feedback off. Do u also have to disconnect the O2 plug, mine isnt?

Yep - stock BOV is already blocked with a coke can plate to rule that out.. . Something else I must mention, the idle goes 200rpms higher with the headlights switched off and lower with it switched on - alternator maybe, the belts checked tight enough - not sure if this issue is even relevant but. And TPS voltage is actually 0.41V at idle - might need 0.45V judging by other threads. All this hunting around for a solution- my problem could even be a bad ground. Something that has been on the back of my mind. Any common ground problem areas/ which areas should I look for?

here..

More of this coming this weekend - a more thorough test with a good 25-30psi in - hoping to find some leaks. Stay tuned.. Sorry bloody images got oriented wrong..

haha..thats even harder - to find a datalogit kit for temp use. Only option is take it back to tuner..and get the same excuse that they couldnt find anything wrong/ didnt do anything to car.. you really think TPS could be an issue? - it does show varying voltage with varying pedal pressing, and is always within its usual voltage range..0.4- 4V or something, so thinking its alrite; As far as I know, the only sensors that affect AF ratios are: CAS, AFM, TPS, O2 sensor, Coolant Temp sensor to ECU, MAP sensor - and probably in that order of importance. Probably in my case with PowerFC as some have said the O2 (switched off) and MAP sensor has almost bugger all effect.

Sorry cant do mate, it wont help anyway, you have to be in car to feel it, and well the map tracer cells jump more than 5-6 cells down when it (bogging down losing power)happens, literally leaps downwards

Ok I just went out n reduced all the acceleration pump settings in first column by 1.5 ms and increased decay time by 1, didnt make any difference to the bogging down on downshifts under load, sudden throttle input felt sharper I think, or maybe its my mind creating an illusion..

For the last time its NOT pinging.

here it is:

Default Accelerator Pump values for 33GTST - assume 34 is same or similar: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/103133-accelerator-pump-values/

Thanks mate, so I will leave the O2 feedback off till I get new O2 sensor (I know irts preferrable not to have O2 enabled but my car was tuned with it, so its best I leave it ON? Or not, and heres my accelerator pump enrichment that you asked about, do the adjustments look ok?

Also map sensor voltage BOST doesnt change but PRS does, not weird?

Yeh I was meaning change the powerfc settings to r34 afm after putting that in. Harnonic balancer/keys fine, I inspected that/ did the timing belt myself. You guys still dont reckon my O2s shot? Drives much better with it off. It must have been richening my car like a pig in the past. Also dont understand how my dipstick was never blown off while driving all the time at 22psi but now with the boost leak test at 19-20psi it shot off like a rocket! Lol

Im hoping its a shit tune- despite taking my car to Unigroup 3 times, they just couldnt fix that bogging down prob, they went over but didnt touch the tune which they claimed is as good as it can be, their after-service is good. I still have my pink label R34afm which I wana test though to see if the z32s farked. And maybe test the pcv valve cos boost went to the crankcase oil vapor vent area. And change O2 sensor.

You will be surprised, found just one- a little hose to plenum that used to go to purge valve at firewall, that hose had been blocked off with a bolt through the end and zip tied -theres a leak thru that bolt as determined by soapy water on 'boost'. Try as I might, didnt find any more- none of the intercooler joiners nada, was gettin dark, didnt spend too much time

Farkin dipstick pops out at 19-20psi..how do u guys get some decent psi in there?

Yep tuner is God and tune cant be questioned. Blame the tune n u get flamed! At least here you do.. Drove with O2 feedback off and it drove a lot better, more torque, smoother, no jerking n bouncing idle. Apparently my O2 sensors stuffed, its one of those PES items from South Aus, put in only 3 yrs ago. Well heres progress. Aint tested it yet...

Hasnt been pinging in ages- very very rare