rondofj
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Posts posted by rondofj
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Ron, have you actually matched the timing being displayed on the power fc in monitor mode to the timing you are setting yet? Like you are meant to. Or is 20 degrees just a random setting?
Nope I left it at 20 because it feels right (driving feel) here, and 'looks' right (CAS bolts) as when I last took it of. At 15 it feels like a huge power/torque loss, and no it doesn't ping at 20 at all (even though knock sensors arent reliable), after several hard pulls in 3rd then you will get the ocassional over 60 knock. So leaving it like this till I get a wideband.
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Funny how there can be two cells at the same time when under boost..:S
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I found that my idle screw was set in too far- would choke the engine when you remove IACV plug. So I disconnected TPS, IACV plugs and adjusted the screw out to idle (warm) at 800rpms as set on Powerfc without any electronic/ecu aid. After adjusting screw n re-connecting plugs back, checked base timing-was still at 20degs but feels right to drive, like it was before. No knock levels over 60, yes I do know the knock sensors arent reliable. And I bumped my TPS to show 0.45V at idle from 0.41V just to keep it at 'stock range'.
Heres my funny map traces
The first two pics are a normal 30sec low rpm below 2500 drive in 1st n 2nd then a power pull in third revving out to 6.7-7k rpms.
Third pic is a pull in 1st, 2nd and 3rd
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Can Ron do it?
f**k no.
^^ This really clever fellow here knows me more than I know myself !!
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Oiling? Thats RB26 territory isn't it.
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My bet is that your highly strung 4G63 will grenade long before my 25 will! Crankwalk anyone?
.. Mick O -
Something else I didnt mention - my exhaust always smells pig rich (part of the reason is that I have a hollow cat). No black/white smoke, just smells pig rich.
Wideband will spoil the fun, it will just tell me what I already know - that my car's running quite rich - and yeh it will tell me the AFRs at each point etc, which is handy.
So lets guess n play with random stuff, and blow it up if it has to. Wideband will come eventually. Lol
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^^ Done this. Coke top plug onto bov return hose and bov vented to atmo. First pic shows this - looks like the bov is connected to black hose but its not - theres clearance.
Result - no difference to massive power loss for 3-5 seconds during shifts (under load). As GTSBoy said earlier there's still air loss (thru atmo bov) thats been metered and not going into engine. Drive was same same even though I expected a bit of a difference. Didn't bother with adjusting fuel decel enrichment points. And its off now, bov plumbed back in as usual.
3rd n 4th pics show a normal map trace of a normal below 3000 rpms 10 min drive in metro areas (no boost), and one with 2X high boost pulls in 2nd and 3rd.
Last pic shows where my CAS sits currently.
Fuel economy hasn't changed - at half tank yesterday from full I had travelled 140kms. Metro areas only, 97% no boost driving with the occasional pull in 2nd and 3rd.
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Cmon Ron. Hurry up and get your timing right so you can go back to not fixing the bov return.
haha. Actually this weekend I'm guna get a plastic coke bottle with lid, cut the top off, remove the bov return hose from the bov end and jam this lid up the hose's ass (lid side in). And let the bov vent to atmo, just to see if the 'reversion' happens then. The cas timing at the moment I think is possibly 1-2 degrees more advanced than before and boy it pulls so much better now esp in third - loving that shove, and no the motor ain't blowing up lol - even if it did, you probably wont hear of it..
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hand controller has no access to idle maps that I know of :S
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No. It does not. That picture is just the normal timing map yes? And you say that when it is idling you see the PowerFC accessing the N02, L02 cell, yes? Well, what if we told you that even though that cell is highlighted, because the TPS idle is detected, the ECU is NOT making its decisions about fueling and timing from the main maps, but instead is making them from the idle maps?
Now, I must point out that I don't KNOW that PFCs do that. But every other bloody ECU in the world does. The Nissan ECU certainly looks up a separate idle timing map, not the main map.
What the CAS must be set to is what the PFC has been told the CAS is set to, which will be in some other location in the ECU althogether, not on the main timing map. Some basic setup screen.
Oh ok thanks Brad - I think it would be in the monitor>channel>idle as Ben said, the reason I asked is because the monitor is exactly that - a 'monitor', not a setting. The idle once warm always shows 15 degrees here.
In the setting menu theres a Ign/Inj (temporary correction) - under this menu > Ignition > Map shows 15 degrees. Under Ign is also a Fin which shows 15 degrees. When u apply the correction the Map shows that correction eg 20 or 10 degrees but the 'Fin' remains at 15. And I assume but dont KNOW this 'Map / Fin' is what the powerfc has been told the cas is set to. Without correction, the map shows 15 degrees AFTER its warmed up.
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Does that mean the cas needs to be set to 19 degrees as thats the idle cell on my timing map?
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The idle cell N02, L02 on my timing map is 19 not 15, is this correct? I know you set base timing from power fc settings but no one has said where exactly - I just set it from the settings>ign/inj>ign map> and the map/fin is usually 15 degrees when warm enough. Assume this is correct.. :S
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Yavuz said to set timing as shown on pfc with TPS connected or disconnected doesn't matter - well in my case it does matter by 5 degrees extra with TPS off.
And yeserday the engine dwindled down to a weak cough/ low idle and died after 5 secs of disconnecting the IACV plug haha
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Yes I will be taking it down to 15 (with TPS connected as others have said), with 20 it 'looks like' where it was before I took it off.
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haha. So where on pfc do you need to check to match the base timing - the 2,4,8 channel monitor where the idle always shows as 15 degrees? It also shows as 15 degrees in the settings> ign/inj > ign cor > fin 15 degrees.
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Next move- log afrs, get wideband or just go to tuner.
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Lookin back at the original thread, some issues on the car HAVE been fixed:
Bouncing/rough idle- new O2 sensor
Stickiness/hesitating @1500-2000rpms- as above
Headlights increasing idle - tighten alternator belt, sand and clean main earth
Dramatic power loss after swapping cas (current problem) - timing, not fully sorted but thats what it is.
DIY Boost leak tester- found/fixed 4 leaks @18-20psi pumped air, minor ones.
Huge power loss during shifts- possible reversion/bov entry not ideal- not worried/last thing on list to fix
Rubbish fuel economy- first fill with new O2 sensor, lets see- also afm is untested- may/may not be f£#ked.
And thats it really
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Im glad I do have the controller- learnt a lot of stuff- if it blows then it blows, its not a Porsche, another 3-5k will have an RB25/30 sitting under the hood with a whole lot of lifetime knowledge n experience : win
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FFS Ronald a month later and 18 pages of nonsense! Give up and get the car to some kent who knows what he's doing!
I know/understand you're a tight kent & can also understand that you are trying to learn/troubleshoot on your ride but the money you have lost in bad fuel economy probably could have paid to have had your car sorted by now!
Mick I dont really care about the bad economy as long as I'm learning stuff and am able to fix it myself sometime, that is highly satisfactory to me. Even if it goes backwards n costs more in the long run. Part of the fun is learning, DIYs, fixing, enjoying, for me that is. Does that still make me a tight kent??
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Seriously? Do you not get it yet?
What the power fc says it is putting out at idle is what the cas should be set at. You need to check that.
No way slightly tapping the cas or doing up the bolts moves it by 5 degrees. Unless you are totally ham fisted. It's the power fc putting out different timing. Not the cas moving. Unless ofcourse you are completely undoing all the cas bolts while adjusting them which is just bad practice .
This thread us unreal. Just the recap you aren't bothered with the one initial problem in the the thread only because you caused another more serious issue.....
You seriously sound like your on your monthly periods sometimes..while other times you can be helpful,...I have seen your posts on other threads..and seen others give you a bit of a rub-down...
Lol....and life goes on. Let me play with my car and you play with yours right? If you can help then you can be sure its appreciated, if you start having your periods then I might just ignore ;-
.. Mick O
Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt
in Forced Induction Performance
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hmmm my idle goes quite loud and timing goes up 5 degrees when I disconnect TPS. Is this right? And how does one access the 'idle maps' with the hand commander?