rondofj
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Posts posted by rondofj
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And now the bolts in the centre of the slider holes as it was before
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Adjusted my cas to 20degs base timing with TPS connected- see how it drives tomorrow.
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I still dont get how cranking up the maps 6+ degrees can be detrimental to my motor as it doesnt knock at that level and goes hard like before?
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If he would remember. Mark tuned my car, will ring em up i think.
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My guess would be Yavus set timing at 20deg with TPS connected and you have played with it at some point then reset it to what it should be, try setting it to 20deg with TPS connected and see how that goes
And I wouldn't be surprised if that puts the bolt on the CAS back in the middle
^^ THIS seems like the most likely thing that has happened. Will be trying that. What do the others think?
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Well so long as you are having fun with what you are doing that's all that matters.
Keep in mind by cranking in heaps of extra timing your risking popping your engine , which would cost more than getting someone to fix your current problem. I'm sure your tuner would freak out if you told him you added 6 degrees to the map and messed with the cas.
And by the way, didn't you cause the power loss by messing with the cas?
This is a strange one, I thought that as well, but it wasn't immediately too obvious on that day, maybe 2-3 days later, could have been my mind playing games.. I do think its the messing with cas, I keep saying before it was on the centre of the three bolts when i last set timing, and before I took it off to put Wolverines one in, now its almost fully clockwise at the same timing.
Could it be because I messed with the TPS before that and then brought it back to 0.41V @idle which is what it originally was. And thats all I messed with. And lost that white TPS plug cap.
Cranking extra timing on the pfc brought my power back to what it was before, maybe a bit sharper now, and it doesn't ping/knock at this level, does it mean its still unsafe? Dont understand this one. But crank up 1 more degree and it will knock at high rpm in 3rd.
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Why pay someone with no guarantee of a proper fix?? When its more rewarding and easy to ask, learn, try etc. And spend money buying my own tools/equipment rather than pay a workshop's labour. I would only go to a workshop after I have exhausted all avenues, tried everything and got as desparate as a cheap crack whore..
And I have already mentioned many times that the bov entry/power loss on shifts is a problem that doesn't really bother me anymore - I can live with it. Lets take this out of the equation, it will be my last fix.
Lets fix the timing first! hehe.. at least I discovered it was the timing that was causing power loss after all.
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To properly check tdc you need a dead stop in the plug hole, or a dial indicator with a long plunger. Looking at it isn't good enough.
Does the PFC display what timing it is running? You should look at it , and if says 20 set cas to read 20 etc...
^^ I do not know what is this. Dead stop/ dial indicator. haha
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It always says 15 on the commander (after warming up n idling), even when I set it to 20 yesterday (with TPS off), TPS connected it reads 15 at crank AND power fc as well.
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ahh that was clever mate, thanks ^^
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So even if it doesnt knock over 60 (blanket timing), it is still dangerous? Cos I it doesnt knock hard/at all below 7 degrees advance.
Still gotta remove fan and radiator to put a socket down the crank bolt yeah? That fan is a real bitch to remove, my hands arent small lol.. And not to forget the rad bottom hose.
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At this point, if I were you, I would pull #1 plug out and check TDC on the crank pulley. And whilst there I would check the cam alignment marks. Throwing random CAS adjustments at a sick car is not guaranteed to end well.
Does this mean turn the engine by hand (socket to crank pulley) till you see piston crown on no.1 plug hole? Then check cam alignment mark on crank bolt and cam marks on top?
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Yep TPS connected it reads 15 degs, TPS unconnected it reads 20 degs and idle is louder / unhappy.
Set temp ign this morning to 7degs+ and it went like a cut snake. 3rd gear it hauls...pretty HARD. No knock levels to worry about.
So do I advance my CAS to 7 more degrees even though it wont read 15 degrees base timing??, then I wont have to do a temp ign adjust on the powerfc everytime. Because right now at 20degs (TPS disconnected) and 15degs (TPS connected) the CAS sits almost fully clockwise, before it was in the middle (with bolts in the middle of the sliders @15 degrees base timing).
Grey TPS plug CAP is missing (lost it) this plug one is for auto transmission cars - this cap doesnt join the connectors on plug right? So I wont worry bout it.
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You got a point- I connect a spark plug lead wire between no.1 spark plug n coilpack and the slide on the timing light is off this lead. This wrong? TPS plugs brown n black are disconnected at this point. Disconnecting TPS makes idle louder n not too happy.
And the timing is currently set to the 5th white mark (20deg), 1st red mark is zero right? This made no noticeable diff to when it was 15degs which I know is what it should be. BUT advancing the map 6-7 degs was like night n day! Like going from 230-300kw. All that torque/pull.
Powerfc map once warm still shows idle at 15degs not 20, with the 6deg advance it shows 21degs of course.
The really strange thing I found after replacing cas with Wolverines one then mine- I had to have it rotated almost fully clockwise to achieve the 15degs on the crank marker. Whereas before when I set the timing after doing belt, the cas was in the middle (bolts in the middle of the slide holes) @ 15degrees. Does the cas move the whole ign map like the ign advance does?
Which means I need to advance the cas 6 more degrees so I wont need to add the +6degs of temp ign adv to powerfc settings each time I drive? This sound ok? I found that connecting the TPS back moves the timing 5-6 degs back, so my 20degs base timing is actually 15 since it was set with TPS disconnected. Also the TPS is 0.41V at idle not 0.45.
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I found what was causing my massive power loss as of recent. Timing. Checked base timing with light off no1 plug wire and tps disconnected- was 15, advanced it to 20 n took it for a drive no difference. Strange thing was with base timing at 15 my cas had to be almost all the way clockwise compared to before I took it off 3 weeks ago when it was in the middle @15degs.
Anyways I cranked up the temp timing adjust to 6degs+ throughout the maps and it went like a demon, like was usual for it, no knocks over 60 at 6-7degs+ adv timing and revving out 3rd. Tried 10 and 8 and knock went to 141 peak so back to 6 which seems its happy zone. And I know its only a temp adjust.
Question is why do I now have to crank up timing so much to get the crazy performance of 3-4weeks ago where there was no adjusting, just using base timing map values.
Is it because its dumping in a lot more fuel now and the extra timing compensates that to make a happy medium of operation and power? If so wheres all this extra fuel coming from?
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Yep will do that cheers. Meanwhile figured out how to do a map trace. Still a noob u see .
See pics -1st one is a 10-12min cruise to shops, parra to granville in syd, traffic lights, stops max 50/60km/h NO boost.
2nd one is same drive back with three 2nd/3rd gear pulls at 21psi max. So does it look like its accessing the right cells or has it gone a bit gay?
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Hello SAU, I need your help again to swap my z32 afm with someones working one because I have some issues with my car and need to rule the z32 out. Need it for coupla hours at least to test in different conditions.
Please text me Ron 0416424446 if you think you could help. Was guna borrow Johhnylcte's but he doesnt have one haha..
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So eventually when you manage to log what's happening, and see that the ecu Is jumping cells, due to the afm being affected by the bov return, what are you going to do then? The afm can't be faulty only when lifting off the throttle.
The only two options here are shit tune or an issue with the bov return. The tuner is well respected, and it's pretty hard to do a shit tune on a power fc after I'm sure he has done 100s. So that leaves the bov return.
well as I've said a few times already - I'm not too concerned with the power loss on shifts right now (its a MINOR issue and is most likely the bov return as others have said). What I am concerned about is where has my power gone the last 3-4 weeks without changing anything and the rich running (fouled plugs, fuel smell, fouled O2 sensor)/ fuel economy is my main problem that I'm trying to fix. We will see about the economy on my next fill-up as I changed the O2 sensor - but expect bugger all difference.
Which leaves AFM as suggested by some.
And tune? Well you've all seen my tune now haven't you, are you able to tell if its shit or not cos I have no idea
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well as I've said a few times already - I'm not too concerned with the power loss on shifts right now (its a MINOR issue and is most likely the bov return as others have said). What I am concerned about is where has my power gone the last 3-4 weeks without changing anything and the rich running (fouled plugs, fuel smell, fouled O2 sensor)/ fuel economy is my main problem that I'm trying to fix. We will see about the economy on my next fill-up as I changed the O2 sensor - but expect bugger all difference.
Which leaves AFM as suggested by some.
And tune? Well you've all seen my tune now haven't you, are you able to tell if its shit or not cos I have no idea
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Yep bought not 'will buy' as you said, will never buy a new ecu again unless different stock car haha
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Oops. Where did I say I will buy a new ECU?
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Cool man I take up your offer of swapping afms in the weekend, but I think I will need it for at least a coupla hours to test in diff loads/conditions if thats ok? And also if u can come for a quick drive to monitor things who knows u find something I didnt. And James Squire will be there too so dont worry.
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Nope, had a play in Excel, those two values of 30 are a big jump from the adjacent LHS values of 40 & 43, making them say 38, 39 smooths it out, the tuner was probably eating his pizza and forgot that - but then again I doubt these two odd cells will do 'anything' to how it drives.
Saying that - what do you guys think of that purple 'hole' in my fuel map (mid rpms, low/mid load), is it dodgy or kinda ok? These are values from 84-94 on this area of the table
Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by rondofj
Me too. But thats where the cas was before, and also when I did the belt early this year thats where I set it at 15 but had Nistune. Remember this is 20degs now with TPS connected as suggested by some of you this morning (since power fc). TPS disconnected reads 25ish.
Funny thing when I disconnected TPS then reconnected with engine running it went to 15 instead of 20. Then turn engine off, tighten nuts, then engine on and it went back to 20. Very sensitive to even slight taps of rotation.