haw001

Thanks, Taking the car there next week to get it put in.

I saw the picture after I posted. Just stupid and lazy on my part. I'll give you $100 plus shipping, direct deposited into your account before you ship. you can call me or email me if you like [email protected] 0411 471 684

I'll give you $100 for the strut brace if it is in fact an original item. I didn't think they came with them, but I am hopefully wrong.

last one

another pic

Another pic

I've got a set of Japanese Leonis Rims with Yokohama tyres. 16"x 225 suitable for R32 GTR, R32 and 33 GTsr, GTST, Silvia, etc Wheels are in perfect condition without a scratch on them. They have nice metal valves. The tyres are Yokohama Avid S306 225/50 R16 in near new condition, say 80% tread, but probably more. $600 I'm in Sydney, you can come and see them if you like.

I'm considering throwing a 33 RB26DETT into my 32 GTR. I know that they are largely the same, but are there any differences I need to know about that make the exercise really difficult? Thanks,

Anyone know where I can get a CAMS approved roll cage put into my R32 GTR at a decent price. failing that, anyone know wether I can put one in myself and then have it approved. If so, where can I get the specs?

Send me an email or a PM if it's not already sold.

I have had the injectors cleaned and flowed, but I'll do it again before re-installing. Number 6 was the one that ran out, and only just. Damage was minimal. I think the pressure was 45psi, but that may be completely wrong. What pressure can I safely run with the standard fuel lines? The pump can handle it. I've had a quick look at an N1 engine, but they are just too expensive. Not over the top, but still more than a rebuild, and even then, I would be looking at changing some parts, particularly in the Oil resevoir and pump. You missed a good track day on Saturday Fatz. It rained and no one showed up. Only three cars in the sub 1:15 category.

I know that stock internals will work and give me up to 300rwkw, but I really want to work on the reliability. I've got 290rwkw right now on the stock internals, but even with 550cc injectors, a new fuel pump and a malpassi, I managed to max out the injectors and do some minor damage. Uppling the fuel pressure should fix this problem, but I'm still a little concerned with durability. I don't want to be taking the engine out after every race to fix something. Having said that, if everyone feels that the pistons and con rods will survive then I'm more than happy to leave them and spend my relatively minor budget elsewhere. keep in mind that my engine is set up for max torque and even at 290rwkw, I am putting as much stress on the engine as an engine set up for well over 300rwkw when set up for max power. Thanks again

Thanks for the info, this was just the type of advice I was looking for. If anyone else has any comments please post them. I have already upgraded the fuel pump and injectors to 550cc. the turbos are also modified Garret t28 from a 33 GTR, cored out with 360 degree steel cores. I have also done the down and dump pipes, but I do need to have the option of running standard pipes as I intend to run Targa tas at a later date. What about the oil pump. Should this be changed? Thanks!

I'm about to tackle my first engine rebuild and I am out for advice on what I should be doing while it's apart. I know that an RB 26 is probably a big job for a first timer, but I'm planning to take my time and do it right. Right now I'm looking for advice on what I should be putting in and doing while it's apart. My goal is not big horsepower for drags, but more in reliability and torque. It will be a track car and so I am only aiming for around 275 rwkw, but it needs to be able to run for extended periods and be able to put up with the to and fro of high g turns. Any advice on where to buy parts would also be greatly appreciated. Specific questions: I'm on a budget, but I feel that forged or semi-forget pistons would be a good idea. Can anyone tell me what and where I should get? I don't think that I want to lower the compression, but I have heard different ideas on head gaskets. Any ideas/comments? Oil restrictors. I understand that there are lower and upper restrictors and that they should be made smaller. Can someone tell me what size hole I should get and where I get the restrictors? I don't think that I want to change the cams, but if weakness is an issue i'll consider it. Honing, porting and balancing. Lots of different opinions out there. Any weak points I should focus on? Any general weak points in the engine I should address? Thanks in advance!

I'm in the process of upgrading the braking system on my R32 GTR and I want to change the the ABS system as well as the brakes. I've managed to get an ABS pump from a 32 GTR, but I doubt that simply changing the pump will do. I imagine that I will need to change the ABS computer as well. This leads to another problem, because I think that the 4wd and ABS computers are one unit (pretty sure). I would assume that a VSPEC computer would be no good because the diffs on a VSpec are different, but I would think that a standard r33 ABS/4wd computer might work. Anyone done this before? Any advice? And just as importantly, does anyone have the wiring diagram or pin outs for this computer on an R33? I've got the R32 one, so I can match it if I get the R33 one.

Just a quick follow up. I was speaking to someone else today and he thought the website was down. Obviously I'm not the only one who had the problem with the cache pulling up the old front page. Is there any way to force a refresh so that people experiencing this problem will get the right page?

forums.skylinesaustralia.com and the link to the forums on www.skylinesaustralia.com do not work. They link back to the same www.skylinesaustralia.com front page which is under construction.

Probably too late, but just in case you haven't had them installed already. 1. If you plan on putting them in, you may as well while the timing belt is being done. However, if your short the dough, then don't worry, because they can be installed in about 30 minutes without taking the front end off. It is possible to take just the cover off and change the cams gears without removing anything else. 2. You don't need to dyno them right away. leave them on zero, or add 2 degrees advanced on the inlet and 2 degrees retarded on the exhaust. Then wait until you have some more major changes to the car and get the whole thing dynoed at once. 3. Basically the gears will affect the characteritics of the engine, but not give you more. You can set it up for more torque and have it come on earlier, at the sacrifice of top power, or vice versa. They are not magic horsepower makers, they just give you more tuning options. My two cents, hope it helps. FYI, I'm running 4 advanced on inlet and 4 retarded on exhaust. I prefer toque to KW but I dont' go too far because I don't like to make too much smoke and I like a good idle. Hey Fatz, I'm going through drift withdrawls! When are you heading out to the track next? I've got some tyres that need a little off the top. They are eager to show their steel belted underwear!

I could be interested as well if they are still around. email me the details. Condition, model if availalbe, price, etc. Also willing to exchange if you need to replace them.

I'm in, let me know if there's anything i can do to help with events or paperwork or all the crap.

Any progress on the CAMS affiliation. Very keen to get my licence with skylines australia as my club.

250 is good, take it.

110$ as long as the core is in good condition.

I'm in. Should have my new brakes on by then as well, so hopefully I'll have some brakes at the end of the straight this time :burnout:!

Can anyone tell me if the front brakes off a 32 GTR or a 33 GTST can be fitted on the rear? or for that matter if there is any benefit in doing so. The main issue that I can see is that the thickness of the front rotors is 32-30mm and the best that I have found in a rear rotor is 22-20mm. Can the calipers function poperly when extended an extra 10mm. I know that I will have to adjust the brake balance, but i believe that there is an adjuster on the ABS controller which should fix this. I am upgrading the front rotors and calipers and figured since the standard ones aren't worth much, they would be better served on the rear of the car. Any comments appreicated.