haw001

Kei Office R32 GTR suspension Height and Damper adjustable, full aluminium, including hats. 2 sets of springs, original 600lbs front and rear, and king springs competition 450lbs front, 350lbs rear. Full setup for road, track, drift etc. $1000 the lot. Call, email, or PM with any questions. Mark

As above, it's in a half cut that I bought for the some body parts (damn that Ross stage in Tas!) Haven't tested it yet, but it's complete with loom and computer so I'll compression test it this weekend to make sure it's all right. $1300 either way. The cut is worth more, but it also means that I need to take it out of the bay, so call it even. Basically I need the headlights and the front suspension, including hubs, arms etc, and maybe the front diff but the rest you can have. Open to offers, can sell complete or short Phone, PM or email any questions.

Email sent

Thanks for the info. I'll check to make sure with Nissan, but the concensus is non-slotted.

I'm trying to find out if an R32 GTR N1 of V-Spec (with the brembos) had slotted rotors. I'm pretty sure that the 33 GTR is the same, but I'm not sure. Anyone know what the standard rotors are like?

There was a red one and a black one out. For some reason they weren't moving that fast, but it may just have been testing. Jeff in the SSS 32 was flying as was the guy in the GT3

Merli, and saw you taking pictures. You were my reference point for turn 7 until you moved! Thanks for all the pictures. Should have taken off the tape on my number. Blurred pictures are good, they make it look like you are going fast!

I'll give you $30 for the set of 6 plugs. I can use them as spares.

Great day overall. Thanks to Pete for showing me the lines. Great help also from Darryl from our finlay course. Most of all the car performed solidly all day. No surge, oil temp stayed at 110 and never moved, water temp never below 80 even after double sessions. Feeling very good about Combined and Targa.

I'm in for sure for 2. Tell me where to send the deposits and I'll do it tomorrow.

Should be good. Monday will be the first real shake down day for the GTR since being reborn as a track car. Won't be going to hard til the new motor is run in, but will be a good run none the less. Allan's GTR has a ton of power, and decent brakes, but the suspension is a little tired, should got really well in a straight line. See everyone then.

2 more GTRs for Monday. One 33 and one 32 for a little run in and testing.

Can anyone tell me who makes a and where I can get a HICAS compatible boss kit in Sydney for and R32 GTR. Thanks,

Can anyone tell me who makes a and where I can get a HICAS compatible boss kit in Sydney. Thanks, Mark

5x114.3 stud pattern suitable for skylines (GTS-T, GTS-4, R32 GTR, etc), ford falcon, some Mazdas plus a bunch of others. Minor scratches, nothing serious. Tyres are ratshit, but at they'll do to get around on until changed. $1100AUD Sydney

I'm interested in the coilovers. Is that front and rear?

Pioneer 12 CD Stacker, RF type (broadcasts through head unit's radio), will only work on Japanese band FM radios, ie a deck that came from Japan already in the car, factory or otherwise. Will work with band expander just put it in the antenna line AFTER the band expander. Has display and remote, all wires, in good working order. No manual, but my 2 year old could figure it out. Removed because Japanese head unit died and replaced it with a local one. $100 no offers.

Set of 4 standard 33 GTR rims. Will fit pretty much and 32, 33, or 34. Perfect for a 32 GTR. very good condition almost no scratches. Tyres are gone (about 20-30% left), but they'd get you to and from the track to wear em right off, or to and from a tyre place. $2000

Set of 4 standard 33 GTR rims. Will fit pretty much and 32, 33, or 34. Perfect for a 32 GTR. very good condition almost no scratches. Tyres are gone (about 20-30% left), but they'd get you to and from the track to wear em right off, or to and from a tyre place. $2100 [email protected]

Some good ideas here. The wastegates are plumbed as per normal set up, so I'm not sure if they get pressure from the plenum or just before the IC. I'll have to check. Having had discussions with a friend, I am nearly certain that the BOVs are the problem and not the turbos. Tuning may fix the problem, but I'm not convinced. I've had similar problems before with another GTR and different turbos, just not as severe. Another suggestion which I may also try is to put an adjustable boost controller on the BOV pressure lines and use it to tune the BOVs easily. I have a simple Turbosmart thumbscrew type which would be easy to plum in, so I might give that a quick try as well. I'll try everything and then report back.

Running a power FC with a whole new map, slightly higher fuel pressure and bigger injectors. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with the turbos, they are new and they are only slightly higher flowing than a standard set of T28s, slightly cored out, with a slightly higher exhaust housing. but not even as big as a set of 2530s. The problem does not happen when on boost, but when you are sitting around 2500 to 3200 rpm cruising, not under heavy load. My suspiscion is that the BOV is popping open then closing in rapid succession because the throttle boddies are mostly closed (no load) but the turbos are still producing a small amount of pressure. The sound that the car makes is duh-duh-duh-duh sound about 1 every half second, and continues until you either dropt the revs, or drop a gear and up the revs. It sounds as if the turbos are stalling one another, but it's probably more likely that the BOVs are opening one at a time.

I''ve just upgraded turbos in an r33 GTR to a set of t28 cored out with roller bearing cores. Not too dramatic, still very torquy, but will do up to about 350hp each. the intercooler is stock, but running z32 AFMs and pod filters. The problem I am having is that under very light load when not accelerating, the turbos seem to fight each other and cause some sort of cavitation that won't stop unless you accelerate out of the rev range, or drop right off. It's an issue when cruising, because it happens frequently when you hit a slight incline and start to give it a little gas to compensate. The problem occurs around 2600 to 3300 rpm, and specifically, when the car is a neutral boost or very small boost (0 to .1 bar) I have tried adjusting the actuator arms to compensate, but this only moves it up and down in the reve range, and does not completely solve the problem. I suspect that a better BOV will fix the problem, but I don't want to vent to atmosphere. I know this has been covered before, but I don't know what to search for. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

Got the roll cage done at Bond and I can't say enough good things about Peter and his crew. An excellent job all round. Thanks everyone.

Looking for rear calipers only. Don't need the rotor, but I'd consider it if the price was right. any condition considered.

What size are the wheels 17x8 or 17x9? Are they the same size and offset front and rear? Finally, what do you want for them?