haw001

A little research and I have found that the optimum flow is somewhere around 30 to 40 L a minute. The davies craig flow 80L a minute. Doesn't mean they won't work, as they can be reduced by dropping the voltage, just means they are overkill for the application. By all reports a very good pump though. At full noise the DC would empty your 20L tank in 15 seconds. We're going to start by using the 1/2 HICAS lines and see how it goes. The fittings on the radiator are 1/2 so wont be any more restrictive. Don't know if they will be ok, but there's no loss in trying them. We'll hook it up and measure the flow and see if we get 30L a minute.

Stuart. No pics yet other than the cooler itself which is back a couple of posts. We are going to mount it where the battery and radiator resevoir usually are. The radiator for the cooler will be mounted in the rear bumper where the number plate usually goes. This should get enough air flow on it's own, but we're going to add some panels underneath once we figure out the best way to do it and this will drive air through it even more. The davies craig pumps are overkill. There's no need for this to be a heavily pressurised system. We need the flow to be pretty slow for the radiator to work properly. I would bet that even with the relatively short time the your drag car was running the water/air, for the 10-20 seconds sitting on the line and running the 1/4, it still burned through some of your 20L very quickly. We need it to move much slower so that the radiator has time to work.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a front mount Air/Air intercooler. I have them on my roadie and have run them on my sports sedan/targa car in factory form as the rules state. The big problem with them is heat soak. Anyone running a power fc with a hand controller can see air temp, and while they start great, after 5 or 10 minutes of hard driving on even a 20 degree day will easily see air temps of 65 degrees or more. This does drastically affect performance. You can feel it more than measure it. The car always feels more punchy after a lap or 2 first thing in the morning. After that it seems to settle in. Take your car out on a cold night and it alwasy seems more vibrant. This is what we hope to acheive all the time with the water/air. This first intercooler is on the heavy side. Much more so than it needs to be. the tanks are cast aluminimum which looks to be about 4 mm thick. As a proof of concept, the price was right, and the construction is sturdy. If it all works well, we can look at making our own using a gtst (or stagea as it looks like there will be one lying around!) stock intercooler and building the water jacket around it. For now, we'll just have to pass on the extra bacon and egg mcmuffin on the morning!

Can't use the standard radiator. Engines run best at a certain amount of temperature, RB26 especially like it a little hot. Most thermostats don't open up until about 50-60 degrees and the thermoswitch on a fan wont kick in til about 78 degrees. Track cars will run regularly at over 100 degrees so need to have very high boiling point coolant. All this means that if you run the same coolant through the intercooler, you will increase the air temp not decrease it. Theory is that cooler air is heavier and more compressible as the atoms are less active. More compressible means a greater density of O2 can be forced into the cylinder, greater the density of O2, the greater the bang from the combustion, greater the power generated. Definitively will be using an external radiator. In theory we should be able to control the air temp to stay within 10 degrees of ambient, which is very good. Also in theory, by placing the radiator elsewhere than in the engine bay, we should be able to reduce heat soak significantly. It also just occured to me that we could even heat wrap the intercooler as there is no need for it to be exposed to air. We'll know more once fully tested, but this really should work very well.

Angus, If you've got a plastic one that can be fixed, I might be able to do some swapping to get a fibreglass one. Ultimately I want a light firbreglass one for this car, but the sports sedan shell doesn't have a bar but one is being supplied with the purchase, and it needs to be a stocker, so maybe I can arrange a swap

The purple looks good on the stagea Duncan, I swear

By all accounts this should work well, though it does weigh a hell of a lot for a small looking intercooler. Always hated the way a GTR has 3 or 4 heat exchangers sandwitched together shooting the nuclear exhaust air right over the engine. Intercooler, oil cooler and/or aircon, then radiator. No wonder they get so damn hot! This setup has one oil cooler then radiator. Power steering moved and intercooler moved. Must be better.

You're Probably right about the brakes, but it's one of those things that can be fixed later without costing any more money by not doing it now. Changing the pivot and using the standard master cylinder won't stop the brakes from working, they just may not work well enough, in which case we'll invest in a dual and not be any worse off. The bias controller can always be chucked up on ebay from whence it came at no real loss. The brakes themselves have come a real treat though. In terms of value for money, you really can't go past JustJap's 8 pot calipers and rotors. The dogbones fit perfectly and comes with all the braided lines which mate up. Real no brainer. Complete change over in about 20 minutes with no fuss. I've dones some modifications, but only to make them fit under 17s so that we can use up some practice rubber and put off the big purchase of some lightweight 18s.

Can picture it. Moved the mounts on ours out as wide as they can go and mounted it to the top of the rear fenders instead of the boot lid. Check it out on the 34, I'll bet it's just as strong. The wing (gay as neil calls it), doesn't move at all, though I've demoed how strong it is so many times that it's bound to break from me pushing on it just trying to prove a point.

Neil you can criticize as much as you like, but you know I never listen! Bang for buck, shoestring budget, call it what you like. The whole theme of the car is to see how fast you can make it on the smell of an oily rag. Now if they only made sequential gearboxes in china.... Russ, hadn't been over to your thread for a while. Had a look but couldn't quite make out the setup. Looks like you have some custom hubs and a different setup for the lower a arm? Hard to see. Plan is to mount the u box section around the hicas steering rod mounting point with solid nylon bushes or even rigid centres and then build a connecting box below the first turn up of the rear cradle. I'll have to measure a properly loaded cradle to make sure all the clearances are right and that the rod sits close to level when neutral, but visually it looks like it will work. If not, I'll shorten the toe rod and mount on the side of the cradle. Same result, bit more work, and the shorter the rod, the more the rear will toe out under normal movement. BTW, the boot lid looks just a little more professional than ours and a little better fitting, hope it cost a million dollars, because it will make me feel a whole lot better about the less than beautiful finish of the alloy one I built! Where are you going to mount the spoiler?

Give me a week and I'll post some pictures. Have a crazy idea that's just crazy enough to work. Death to all things HICAS

Beer Baron has got it all but one and it's damn near impossible to see from the pictures, and that's the sump baffle in the middle box. Well done! Oh and the coilovers are a production prototype which never made it in to production. The canisters are nitrogen canisters. They are bound and rebound adjustable, plus height of course.

Getting there, all correct except for turbo timer. Bushes are for sway bar linkages from memory.

Nope, crazy before, crazy afterwards.

No, just LOTS and LOTS of NOS! Probably just do away with O2 all together and run pure NOS/ELF mix! Just kidding, the LPG tank is for my roadie.

There's something to be said for a 2-pac baked on paint job. The red on this car is coming off just looking at it the wrong way. Before we put too much back, should we look at baking the current paint job in a booth? Mark

This is a fun game. From my count, still 6 items to be identified. Thermostat is wrong, but otherwise phunky monkey's all right.

A little more work and a few more pictures. A bit of milling on the dogbones and 356 mm brakes fit under 17" wheels! There's about 2mm to spare on both sides, but they fit! Some tabs added to the intercooler/flux capacitor and the surge tank. Also some plates made to cover the surge tank and fuel pumps in the rear quarter and plates for mounting the radiator and to cover the hole left by the brake booster. Last but not least, our new NOS tank!

Just get him to order the acl race series. They are cheap, about $150 for both sets.

No pics, I couldn't take them through the tears. Actually it was all over so quick I didn't get a chance. The cage may have survived the roll down the hill, but the massive jaws of the crusher made mince meat of it in seconds!

Measuring bearing sizes is not that hard with the right set of feelers, but, and this is a big but, you could get away with it if you kept track of each bearing placement on removal or if they were all the same. If none were really damaged, and you could look them up from Nismo, then it would be very easy to match with and ACL version. As long as you crank came with your block, then it's been tunnel bored and shouldn't need much more than a good clean with some wet sandpaper. Of course, if you've got an engine builder doing all the assembly, it's all pretty pointless as any decent builder you're paying money to will check everything first and tell you which bearings to buy.

Duncan, aren't the "extra" .025mm UNDER standard for more oil?

I like the big tank, but I have to agree, having it in cabin would not be my first choice. Having rolled a few times (and by a few times, I mean both multiple rolls in a single incident and multiple incidents!) I would not like hot oil in the cabin with a breather on the top. Last time I ended up upside down, and I don't think my navigator would have been too happy with 130 degree oil running down his back. Something to consider, is that there is the potential for the engine to be still running in a crash, which would have the pump still pumping oil into the cabin. What about the spot where the ABS pump used to be, or over where the brake booster used to be?

Ah... makes more sense now. Was being sarcastic about the air con, but assumed the pump was electrically driven so that flow could be controlled independent of engine revs. Mechanical would of course have to be fixed where it is.

Look at all those speedflow fittings and braided line! Hate to think what they cost Seriously though, have you got any more pics of the setup? It's not on the cards right now, but I'm interested in the work done. Any reason why you have to mount the pump to the engine, wouldn't it have been easier just to mount it in the engine bay? I can see keeping the lines short, but doesn't the setup mess with the power steering pump? (and air con of course). Really hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it sits way forward, far enough to foul on the radiator, but that my just be the photo. Feel free to use the thread for whatever jibber jabber anyone wants, just don't start attacking me for converting the road GTR to LPG. I got enough of that from my other thread!