haw001

Roy, I've got a better option for removing hicas entirely. I should have it together tomorrow and Ill post some pictures.

Thanks John, can't wait to give it a go. The bushes have been removed and I'm going to weld plates top and bottom to make the joints completely solid.

No worries, since you didn't specify a brand I'll make them TomJuKS, the new ultimate Kanzai brand!

I stayed out of this one, but I'm glad that someone else has piped in on the need for cam caps studs. Sounds to me like the biggest waste of money that you can put in your engine. Let's just have a look at the mechanics of the whole thing, the force on the caps comes from the cams and the valve springs only. Under compression the valves are closed and the load is absorbed completely through the valve seals and thus the head bolts/studs. Springs are inconsequential, even if you have heavier springs, they are not exerting much more force than factory. So you've left with rotational force of the cams, which is only a product of the weight of the cams and the rpm. I don't know what the weight differece between aftermarket cams and standard is, but it can't be much and even if you are over reving it's unlikely that you will be doing more than 10k rpm (stupidity to be doing this much anyway) so at most a 25% increase. Take all this into account and you are nowhere near factory tolerance. Add to the fact that studs or bolts and screwed into an aluminum head and it's easy to see that the cam cap bolts are not the weakest part of the chain anyway. But hey, if you want to spend $230 on bolts, I'll discount them to $229.95 and just head down to Bunnings for some high tensile bolts. I'll even engrave them with whatever Jap brand name you want so that it has the bling factor hidden under the cam covers.

What's the plan for this weekend? I'm not home til Friday night so can't do any pickups, but the weekend is free. Saturday is better.

No worries, see you then. Sold pending pickup.

Item: HKS 2530 Turbos Condition: Used but in perfect condition Price: $2200 To Fit: (What car) RB26 Location: Sydney Contact: 0411 471 684 Comments: These are good turbos in very good shape. Ready to bolt in, no need for a rebuild.

About the same as I have seen. There must be someone who can get them from NTN in Japan

You didn't, but I did. Thank god the kids aren't in nappies any more.

As from the title, I'm trying to find a set of wheel bearings that don't cost and arm and a leg. So far, the best that I seem to be able to find is about $150 each for fronts, and similar for rear. Seems way to expensive, even though they are a one piece bearing. Anyone know where they can be had at a reasonable price?

Duncan, I think I'll clean up the original crush tubes and weld them to the top and bottom plates that I was going to make up to replace the cradle bushes. This will eliminate the need to add a bush to the bottom when bolting it in and make sure that the holes are exactly the right size. Only problem is that I'm going to have to root around in the bin to find them. Sometimes I get the good ideas way too late.

All it takes is a bit of practice, and I've had too much practice :laughing-smiley-014: I think I did it about roll 2, so it should be fine. Was the last time I did it, and that one ended up on the roof as well.

Yeah sorry, 07

About 6 or 7 we've been told. Bit hard to count. You wouldn't have time to shit yourself, happens too fast. There are plenty of photos up around here somewhere, have a look for targa 2006

I must have had a lot of adjustment holes! I knew I should have left it standard.

Looks cool though! Got a sort of croc theme going. What sort of weight savings over chromoly welded tube?

Thanks for the explanation Gary. I know of one engine builder who agrees with you and he was responsible for the head porting on ours, and personally, I did not want to once again remove the head before even firing it up and disassemble the head before even trying it. Mark

Looks to be about the same. Duncan took another chop at it a while ago and cut to the chassis rails, which looks to be about what you have done.

Part Number: AR202-4207 http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...rtno=AR202-4207 Not sure about the price, but I think they are about $400.

Can't tell you absolutely for the 34 N1 turbos, but the 32 N1 turbos will flow 30 psi fine, but you will probably be flowing past what the internal gate can handle under heavy load, so even fully open they will probably creap. I would give them a try and change them only if you find them unsuitable. At this pressure, you should start looking at something with an external gate.

How do you stop them from turning? Does the block need to be tapped or is the thread the same as std?

Not sure what you are talking about Duncan...

Pshaw, I checked the head bolts, they aren't stretched at all (I know you cant really check them like conrod bolts). Seriously, I have never heard of a RB26 headbolt being the cause of failure. I have heard of failure but not as the cause, more as a result of something else going wrong. Correct me if you've had it happen to you

Angus, I've got that steering bush ready. Still got that bumper? *Whoops, just looked back 2 posts. I'm in town this week. Where abouts are you and what time?