haw001

With thin aly you can almost bend it by hand if the bend is fairly large diameter, otherwise use a soft tipped hammer and some sort of wood dowling like Neil said. It's pretty easy as you can bend it back if you go wrong as long as you don't crease it. Just don't put it in the vice without some soft jaws, it marks easily

Guys, I don't want to get into an argument over what it will cost etc. I got a great price on my stuff and doing whatever work I can legally do and still get the rebate. It costs whatever you have to pay for it. I'm just telling you what it cost me.

WRRR, checked out the links and the tanks look great, but i don't even want to think what they cost. Must be a bundle. As soon as i saw pictures of their products for the space shuttle, I knew the cost would be astronomical. neat that they are made of aluminium.

Ben, bring me your sheet and I'll guillotine it at my friends place. I can use the same template as ours. Jigsaw job just won't finish well. Otherwise, get a nibbler, it does a pretty good job, but it's hard to do really straight lines without a guide.

I called brody automotive and they sent all the tanks back. Anyone else know where I can get some second hand tanks. Twins is what I'm after.

That I'd like to see. Would probably spool up about 1 millisecond before the piston (one of the 3) comes flying out the block and lands in his lap!

Need to block the little hole next to the turbine exhaust. They are external wastegate and I guess this hole is common to the internal and external gate casting. The correct flanges have a plate and just a hole big enough for the exhaust turbine.

fatz, good to hear from you. Turbos are: MonstA T3/T4 600HP TURBO The T3 / T4 MonstA Turbo are custom matched for specific applications. Airflow ratings to 600 HP. Consists of a T3 turbine section, (standard, Stage II or Stage III trim) and a T4 compressor section (T04 trim). The turbo offers the low inertia and fast boost response of the light weight T3 Turbine wheel and the high airflow characteristics of the T4 compressor. Air flow rating of up to 600HP 3" Inlet Diameter : 2" outlet Wet Floating Bush Bearings : 1/8 NPT oil inlet T3 Flange : Fits T3 and T3/T4 Manifolds Specs: . 50 a/r compressor .63 a/r turbine .57 trim Turbine wheel: Exducer: 2.48" Mayor : 2.89" Compressor wheel : Exducer: 2.07" Mayor : 2.36"

Adriano, have you got a contact for Broady. This sounds perfect, exactly what I'm after! Did you get brackets with them?

Depends on who is doing the work. Kit cost me $1600. Tank would have been about $500 and brackets $100, but with the dual tanks it will be more. Of course I'm doing all the work except for the final LPG connections which have to be done by a licenced installer. So yep, it should cost me around $500

Just got back from the LPG equipment supplier and piggyback smaller tanks are certainly an option. Tanks are not much different in price, but there is the cost of 2 mounting brackets and about $70 for some sort of balancing valve. And yes, I'm definitively after the $2000 rebate. Big factor in getting this done.

Never carry a spare anyway, In the last 10 years I've had a flat once, and even then I only bothered with the can of goo to get me to the service centre. We've got 5 LPG falcons here at work and took the spare out of all of them because of the space. Never had an issue as technically you are not allowed to change a tyre because of OHS unless you've taken a driving and maintenance course. We just carry the patch in a can A picture will explain better, but with the petrol tank gone, the spare wheel well just hangs down taking up a lot of space and making all the space around it useless. You cut the spare well out and weld in a flat sheet in it's place. You end up with tons of room under the boot and it's all flat. The only thing in the way is the muffler and it's all the way on the left hand side. There's enough room for a decent size lpg tank, or better yet, 2 decent size tanks. I'll find out the cost on the twins today.

That's it for this week. I'll get back to it next weekend. Have to pull the motor out, not because of the lpg, because my turbo problem turned out to be a piston ring or valve problem so I'm going to rip it apart this weekend. I'll take some photos of the space under the car with the tank out and the spare cut out and post them on the weekend.

Yep, starting to sound too hard. Not one to shy away from a challenge, but in the midst of an engine rebuild, 2 race car builds, and an LPG installation on the go, it might be worth putting it on the back burner.

Ryan, you may be right. You can weld to cast, but it's a pain in the ass. Have to heat the hell out of the cast or you'll blow big holes in the pipe trying to get it to weld to the cast. More importantly, I realised that since the turbos are external wastegate, we don't need the whole thing open, just a round opening around the turbine. Given the external wastegate and the fact that it's a pair, 2 inch should do it. Just got to figure out how to get 3x 2 " pipes down the back of the engine and out the side ...

benm, that's what I was going to do. Done this already on the race car and there's heaps of space, more than the boot would allow. Should get and easy 65L under there. Good for about 450km. Not trying to hide the fact that it's on gas. Will fly the flag loudly and proudly once it's all working, just don't like how much space the tank takes in the boot, and more importantly, I want to be able to say with confidence that I haven't lost anything by going to gas. maybe a little bit less power, or a little bit less range (that would be hard given the limited range on petrol). Still want to be able to fit the golf clubs!

Hey guys, looking for some donations in the form of old unused stock GTS-T dump pipes. Need 2 (obviously), promise to hack and beat them until they are even uglier than they were from factory. Want to try and modify them to fit, or at the very least cut them off at the knees to use as flanges.

You can't see it in any of the photos, but all the wiring has been pulled through the firewall. I've opted to mount the ECU in cabin for esthetics and water protection. The ecu fits (jams) perfectly up in the driver side kick panel directly below the loom port. I used the loom port behind the driver side front wheel so no new holes were needed. The only problem is that I've elected to take all the sensor feeds off the standard ecu and the wires are about 30 cm too short to reach the standard ecu so will need to be extended. There's a fair amount of extra cable in the engine bay loom, so I'm going to wire up all the engine bay stuff first, then possibly pull the cables back through and remount the LPG ecu somewhere closer to the standard ecu.

Ok a few photos after about 4 hours of work. Doesn't look like much, but most of the hard stuff is done. Still have to solder in all the wires and plug in all the fuel lines, but it hasn't been too bad so far. Injectors drilled and mounted. Close up of injectors. Room for another, but would have to remove pressure bar to fit them. Reducer fitted with mm to spare all round Even clears the strut tower brace (just) Gas gauge and switch, not yet mounted, but drilled. For illustration, this is where I'm going to mount the injector rails. Will have to make a bracket as the injector loom is too flimsy.

Cerbera, kinda funny if you look at your post. "...ive got better things to do than spend my life at petrol stations", then a BIG "Buy my GTR!" under it A bit Ironic, kinda makes you wonder if the fuel costs are the reason for selling it.

Wheels are different for sure, but they can be machined to match provided the hats are of the same diameter and the profile of the t28 is not larger (can take material away, but adding is harder ). All pie in the sky at the moment, but I'm curious

Interesting thing that most people don't realise is that LPG has RON rating of 110, so in theory, a properly tuned system should have about 5-10% more power than on 98 RON petrol. I'll put it on the dyno for proper testing when done and proper tuning. The software comes with the system an no charge and the ecu plugs into a computer through a standard serial port. This will work with a Power FC as well. I'm not putting the tank in the boot, even though the R32 has a natural spot between the wheel arches. I think the tanks look butt ugly in the boot and are one of the main detractors of the LPG system. Hopefully I'll still be able to keep a decent tank underneath, if a bit smaller than standard. Hopefully at least 50L + 10L of petrol. Will have to fill up more often, but not that bad.

Before going into details, I should preface this by saying there is no way that I am going to be talked out of it, it's already happening. The car is a basically stock R32 GTR which is being road driven, not tracked at all. I've got other cars to do that with. The system is a KME Akme, from all intents one of the best on the market and quite advanced in it's management, so no longer simply a burst of LPG pumped in. http://www.kme.com.pl/EN_autogaz1.html This system is ecu controlled with single cylinder injection, same as with the standard petrol system. No injectors as LPG is already gas, but each cylinder has a seperate feed and it piggybacks on the standard injector signal, so the car can be tuned normally plus using the LPG ECU. The website has all the info. My plan is to remove the petrol tank to make room for the gas cylinder and then add a small petrol tank for starting (the lpg doesn't cut in until the temperature reaches around 40 d c) According to the manufacturer the unit is good to 260kw with single injector points, 350+ with multiple injectors per cylinder. I'm starting out with 1, but will allow room for 2 if necessary. Install is underway. I'll post some picture tomorrow.

Haven't got anything yet, so I'm just looking at ideas for the moment. Are you sure the casting on the rear of the turbo is different? From pictures the rear housing seems to be the one thing that is common among the 2, in both inlet and outlet. The front housing is totally different, it seems the mounting holes for the inlet are out by 90 degrees. Led me to wonder if a GT28 hat off an old GTR turbo could be easily machined to fit. They should by rights be similar. Still might go the old ceramic route, but my main concern is that the occasional higher than normal squirt of boost could make the thing come apart. I usually run around 14-15 psi, which is more than recommended for the ceramic wheel turbos. A newer set of turbos could make this a less likely problem. Thanks for the advice.

No doubt the fabrication will be a pain in the ass, up top not so much, but definitively the exhaust side will be tricky as you don't get too many chances to get it right. All looks great when it's tested outside the engine bay, only to find it fouls on the firewall... As to the fuel filter, I've already got a 1/2 inch traditional fuel filter, so that should do the job. Standard pinch fittings. We use the Hicas lines for fuel which gets 1/2 inch of flow up to the fuel rail. Overkill, but it costs nothing and the fuel filter can be mounted in the engine bay or the boot.