Angelecles

Sold. Thanks.

Pics of the whole car were prior to restoring headlights over the weekend.

R34 Gt-t for sale in North West Sydney. White 5 speed with 135,000kms (gets driven every day so might go up slightly between now and sale) Second owner in Australia, I have owned this car for over four years and it has been great. Only selling due to second baby on the way. Serviced regularly by me using synthetic Castrol oils. Major service (timing belt, water pump, drive belts etc) done about 20,000kms ago. Basic bolt ons to free up a bit of performance and improve looks. Mods include: window tints, HID kit, 18x8 front and 18x9 rear Lenso "Project D" rims, lowered 2" on king springs, full turbo back exhaust, front mount intercooler (Stealth kit - so no holes in battery tray or massive pipes running over engine covers like some), Walbro 400hp fuel pump, Nistune ECU dyno tuned by Unigroup Performance making 210kw at the wheels @ 12psi with standard turbo, slotted rotors and QFM street pads HKS adjustable cam gear (exhaust side only), Genuine Nismo short shifter and leather gear knob and double din DVD player head unit. I also have a set of new brake RDA disks and QFM pads (worth about $600) which are not installed yet, they will either come installed on the car or in boxes with the purchase of the car. Car will suit the fussiest buyer. Excellent condition for its age. Priced for a quick sale. $13,900 ONO. Angelo - 0407 486 064.

I went to leave work and try to start my car this afternoon, anyway the car started fine and then died about 10 seconds later. then tried to start again and pump wouldnt prime/engine didnt start as a result. This kept happening so i had to leave the car there and get a ride home. Can anyone tell me if the r34 gt-t's run a relay to the fuel pump? If so where is it? If not what else could be at fault? Thanks

is this the same for r34 gt-t models? My fuel pump primes intermittently so i wanna test this relay to see if its cactus.

does it bolt up to standard manifold/dump/oil lines? How much power did you make it make? ball bearing? willing to ship to sydney?

How much shipped to 2153 NSW?

if only you were in sydney.

hey mate are these still for sale?

OK so it turned a bit pair shaped today. I started coating the lid today.. Looked real good at first.. But this is where i went wrong. I used cling wrap instead of duct tape and didnt do the coat of PVA glue this time. My mistake so after about 10 mins it started caving in. Heres what the lid looked like when i did the first coat on the lid I was pretty impressed with myself at this stage. Anywhere heres where it goes downhill. About 15 mins later this is what it looks like.. and.. It ended up setting like this. Bit disappointed. But at least im fill it with bog and use it as a mould for the lid i will end up using. Not all is lost, just a bit of a pain in the a55..

Ok so i started smoothing out the lid this morning. Had to cut off less than what i originally thought to clear the bonnet. Shaved a fair bit off but the size of the snorkel pretty much remains unchanged so should make some sort of improvement hopefully. We will see anyway. Heres a couple of pics of the lid after i trimmed it a bit. and another one from the side showing where i had to trim the front to clear the bonnet. and one from a bit lower showing the size of the inlet. It still needs to be trimmed a bit more to suit the base of the airbox but i havent drilled it and fixed it to the car yet to know where i still need to trim.

Hey guys, has anyone done this to an R34 Gt-t. Is the setup similar to the S2 GTS-T with the ignitors in the coilpacks or is there a seperate ignitor? Im sick of changing coils and want to give this a shot. Cheers.

The ones that bunnings sell usually are just polyester resin which dries to an ugly yellow tinge. If you are gonna do carbon go to a fibreglass supplier in your area and get proper epoxy resin that dries clear otherwise the effect it will prob end up looking sh1t. Theres a guy on ebay that sells it as well. He is based on the north coast of NSW, pretty well priced too. Just search ebay. If you are in sydney, theres a place at Seven Hills called FMS (Fibreglass material services) they sell everything including carbon weave off the roll.

+1 to the illustrated man comment. Rudest fu(kers in Sydney! I went in there to get my first tat done and they didnt want to know about me. So i left and got it done from freds tattoo in granville (church st parra now) they were pretty good but i think theyve changed owners since i got mine done so i dont know how good they are now. By the way Trevor from wicked ink is an absolute genius. He did my mates sleeve about 3-4 months ago. He works from his house now but hes booked solid for almost a year. Im gonna get him to do my half sleeve hopefully. I think he wants to give it up soon though so i might miss out.

Ok guys so i got home early from work today so i thought i would start trying to rough out the lid and snorkel. Im starting to get used to cutting the foam with the stanley knife so it didnt turn out as rough as the bottom of the box but it still needs to be trimmed. I will start on that on the weekend after i get back from work but heres a progress report anyway. I started roughing out the bottom of the lid. I ended up making it out of two layers of foam so i could get some more angles and a bit more of a big mouth design happening. I will have to trim a fair bit off the lid behind the light though so it clears the bonnet. Heres the bottom layer of it. Then after another half an hour of adding bits and pieces. Im attempting to make the snorkel as big as i possibly can so i can. I tried to make the box a minimum opening of at least the same as a 3" pipe being a touch less than 44 cm2 A couple of the measurements that i did do, the snorkel is 260mm x 80mm (the bit thats hatched with permanent marker) which ends up being 208 cm2 a fair bit bigger than 3". I expect that i will have to cut about a good 10mm off the top of it though but it should be a massive improvement over the stock hot air thats getting sucked in. At the thinnest point of the snorkel (just above the stock IC piping) the area is 64 cm2 which is the equivalent to a 3.6" pipe which I'm more than happy with. I thought if i end up making the snorkel bigger than the diameter of the standard AFM I would be more than happy. Just a note, these are all gonna be inside diameters. I will measure them again once i shave bits of it off just to see if any of these measurements have changed dramatically. Heres a pic of what the current setup is.

hey mate, Your setup looks really good. Looks to work really well with the stock snorkel. I was gonna attempt to make a sort of "big mouth" snorkel, mainly because i dont have the stock snorkel so if i make one i dont need to go and buy one. What are your thoughts on your setup? Did it make an improvement? Is it much quieter than the exposed pod? Any noticeable perfomance gain? Also, you were saying about waxing the body of the car and glassing straight onto it. I noticed a lot of people used masking tape with similar results. If I want to make the snorkel front I will need the front of it to butt up against top of the radiator support and am thinking this is what ill do. I was planning to make a nice gap for the rad with some sort of temporary filler (blu tac or something like that) then tape on top of that so it doesnt rub against the rad when its installed. Do you think this will work?

thanks mate, sorry i dont follow what you mean. Strip out the foam? what part would i be waxing? This information could be really useful because i want to start on the lid/snorkel this weekend. I should really go to a fibreglass supplier, i need heaps more resin and i couldnt find mould release at bunnings anywhere so i just improvised.

Hey guys, Ive been looking at the Gruppe M intakes to suit the R34 GTR and think they look sh*t hot, also the idea of a partition that is readily available to cover my open pod is not really too appealing. This is mainly because I'm thinking where is it pulling air from if you use stock IC piping. Im not big on cutting holes in my engine bay so im back looking at something that resembles the stock design with some Gruppe M styling cues. I have a feeling people are going to ask "why dont you use the stock airbox with a K&N panel?" well i thought that would be too easy and i like trying new things and I want my engine bay to look a bit different. Anyway here goes. Im gonna attempt to make an enclosed airbox with a massive snorkel out of fibreglass that hopefully improve the look of my engine bay while im at it. This is sort of what im basing my design on (except not carbon/kevlar and probably not as nice ) First of all just a bit of disclaimer. I am not a professional fibreglass guy and do not pretend to be. You will also see this for youself as you scroll down to see my backyard fabrication techniques. Im sure there is about 1001 ways to do this better but im just doing it the best way I can. If anyone can suggest better ways to do this please do as I have not yet completed this mod and currently working on this. Parts Needed: Sharp Stanley blade (a hot wire cutter is better but i dont have one so mines a bit butchered) Block of expanded polystyrene (about $15 from clark rubber) duct tape or that brown shiny packing tape (F**k all from the $2 shop) PVA glue Pins - what your mum used to sew stuff Glue that will not melt the polystyrene - Pretty much anything that doesnt have acetone in it (Liquid nails, silicone) Fibreglass resin + hardener (Needs to be epoxy resin or else you risk melting through the polystyrene) Cheap paint brushes (Heaps of them) Fibreglass chopped strand mat hint: is if you go to bunnings and see the fibreglass resins look for one with a little surfboard on it because they use epoxy to repair surfboards (not to melt the foam inside the board) dremel with a cutting tool Car filler Heaps of sandpaper Paint etc I probably forgot some stuff but im nowhere near finishing yet so this is still a work in progress thread Step 1: Get your foam block and start cutting pieces and slowly make up a mould for your box using the silicone and pins to keep it together. Im trying to make mine bolt down to the stock position so i started at the front and started making a little channel to not foul the stock IC piping As you go it will start to take shape (abeit rough as) like mine after about 10 mins of gluing random bits of foam together Depending on the glue you use, you might have to do this over two or so sessions so the glue has a chance to dry. The quicker the better. Silicone is pretty good, gets tacky pretty fast and isnt too messy if you dont use huge amounts of it. Heres another photo after a bit more gluing. Anyway, grab a beer and let your glue dry ready for step 2. Step 2: Grab your sharp stanley blade/hot wire cutter etc and start smoothing out the foam blocks into one smoothed out shape. Keep cutting and trial fitting to see if the box is too big etc. A couple of photos after about 5 mins of butchery. Step 3: Cover your smoothed out box in duct tape or packing tape. Dont be tight with it. Half a roll should do it easy but if you wanna use more go for it. This is what it should look like afterward. After you cover the foam in tape. Paint all over it with PVA glue. Do a couple of coats (this will be a kind of mould release so the tape doesnt stick to the resin when we want to pull the foam out later) The more the better so do a few coats. Step 4: Laying the first coat of fibreglass. Be sure to mix the resin according to the instructions and be in a well ventilated area. Paint a light coat of resin over the box so when you start putting the chopped matting over it, it wont move around too much. Start laying mat over it and saturating it with the resin, try to be even all over the box. Be sure not to cut the mat, tear it with your hand. Its easier to lay and it also blends better with the laid matting. This is roughly what your box should look like after a coat of resin + matting Leave it to dry and then repeat until you are happy with the thickness of the box. I did two coats so it ended up about 2mm thick (i dont want it too thick because im gonna smooth bog over the top of it to make the finish prettier later on.) Step 5: After your second/third coats get your dremel and cut the top of the box. (the bit that probably looks pretty average, i marked it with a permanent market first. Then can start pulling the foam out of the box. Should start breaking away pretty easy. This is what your box should look like after you gut the foam out of the box. Step 6: Trial fit the box in the car, see what you did wrong.. In my case i stuffed up the angle where the AFM will later connect to the box. This is a photo after i cut a part out of the box and tried to make it line up properly. Dodgy i know. I used kebab skewers, duct tape and silicone to get the angle. I will then trim the box a bit more and fill the hole. NOTE: If you guys learn from my mistakes, Step 6 will be much shorter on your job. I rushed mine a bit and am now paying for it. Once i finish roughing the base i will start on the lid in a further post. Stay tuned people.

Hey guys, Ive been looking at the Gruppe M intakes to suit the R34 GTR and think they look sh*t hot, also the idea of a partition that is readily available to cover my open pod is not really too appealing. This is mainly because I'm thinking where is it pulling air from if you use stock IC piping. Im not big on cutting holes in my engine bay so im back looking at something that resembles the stock design with some Gruppe M styling cues. I have a feeling people are going to ask "why dont you use the stock airbox with a K&N panel?" well i thought that would be too easy and i like trying new things and I want my engine bay to look a bit different. Anyway here goes. Im gonna attempt to make an enclosed airbox with a massive snorkel out of fibreglass that hopefully improve the look of my engine bay while im at it. This is sort of what im basing my design on (except not carbon/kevlar and probably not as nice ) First of all just a bit of disclaimer. I am not a professional fibreglass guy and do not pretend to be. You will also see this for youself as you scroll down to see my backyard fabrication techniques. Im sure there is about 1001 ways to do this better but im just doing it the best way I can. If anyone can suggest better ways to do this please do as I have not yet completed this mod and currently working on this. Parts Needed: Sharp Stanley blade (a hot wire cutter is better but i dont have one so mines a bit butchered) Block of expanded polystyrene (about $15 from clark rubber) duct tape or that brown shiny packing tape (F**k all from the $2 shop) PVA glue Pins - what your mum used to sew stuff Glue that will not melt the polystyrene - Pretty much anything that doesnt have acetone in it (Liquid nails, silicone) Fibreglass resin + hardener (Needs to be epoxy resin or else you risk melting through the polystyrene) Cheap paint brushes (Heaps of them) Fibreglass chopped strand mat hint: is if you go to bunnings and see the fibreglass resins look for one with a little surfboard on it because they use epoxy to repair surfboards (not to melt the foam inside the board) dremel with a cutting tool Car filler Heaps of sandpaper Paint etc I probably forgot some stuff but im nowhere near finishing yet so this is still a work in progress thread Step 1: Get your foam block and start cutting pieces and slowly make up a mould for your box using the silicone and pins to keep it together. Im trying to make mine bolt down to the stock position so i started at the front and started making a little channel to not foul the stock IC piping As you go it will start to take shape (abeit rough as) like mine after about 10 mins of gluing random bits of foam together Depending on the glue you use, you might have to do this over two or so sessions so the glue has a chance to dry. The quicker the better. Silicone is pretty good, gets tacky pretty fast and isnt too messy if you dont use huge amounts of it. Heres another photo after a bit more gluing. Anyway, grab a beer and let your glue dry ready for step 2. Step 2: Grab your sharp stanley blade/hot wire cutter etc and start smoothing out the foam blocks into one smoothed out shape. Keep cutting and trial fitting to see if the box is too big etc. A couple of photos after about 5 mins of butchery. Step 3: Cover your smoothed out box in duct tape or packing tape. Dont be tight with it. Half a roll should do it easy but if you wanna use more go for it. This is what it should look like afterward. After you cover the foam in tape. Paint all over it with PVA glue. Do a couple of coats (this will be a kind of mould release so the tape doesnt stick to the resin when we want to pull the foam out later) The more the better so do a few coats. Step 4: Laying the first coat of fibreglass. Be sure to mix the resin according to the instructions and be in a well ventilated area. Paint a light coat of resin over the box so when you start putting the chopped matting over it, it wont move around too much. Start laying mat over it and saturating it with the resin, try to be even all over the box. Be sure not to cut the mat, tear it with your hand. Its easier to lay and it also blends better with the laid matting. This is roughly what your box should look like after a coat of resin + matting Leave it to dry and then repeat until you are happy with the thickness of the box. I did two coats so it ended up about 2mm thick (i dont want it too thick because im gonna smooth bog over the top of it to make the finish prettier later on.) Step 5: After your second/third coats get your dremel and cut the top of the box. (the bit that probably looks pretty average, i marked it with a permanent market first. Then can start pulling the foam out of the box. Should start breaking away pretty easy. This is what your box should look like after you gut the foam out of the box. Step 6: Trial fit the box in the car, see what you did wrong.. In my case i stuffed up the angle where the AFM will later connect to the box. This is a photo after i cut a part out of the box and tried to make it line up properly. Dodgy i know. I used kebab skewers, duct tape and silicone to get the angle. I will then trim the box a bit more and fill the hole. NOTE: If you guys learn from my mistakes, Step 6 will be much shorter on your job. I rushed mine a bit and am now paying for it. Once i finish roughing the base i will start on the lid in a further post. Stay tuned people.

would you be able to fit these to an r34 without butchering them?

Hey guys, My r34gtt came with the optional nismo exhaust that you can make louder/softer from the cabin by flicking a switch. When i bought the car this exhaust was removed and replaced with an xforce exhaust. Anyway, Ive been looking at the apexi ecv for a long time and was wondering how hard would it be to retrofit the nismo motor (which is still fitted on the car) to open up the apexi valve. The motor for the nismo one is right at the back so i would probably get the flange style one and put it between the cannon and the piping if i ended up doing it. Has anyone done this? Also, has anyone got pics of the apexi one to see what i would have to do to make it all work? Its not like it would be used a lot, just when the boys in blue decide they want to pick on me. Thanks

what are the adaptors for? what do they adapt? sorry to sound stupid

Hey guys, Im a bit confused. Did a search and found that standard r34 gt-t's came with d2r xenons but they are usually replaced with H1 globes on compliance in the majority of cases (mine being one of them). I want to get an aftermarket HID kit for my car, which globe should i request with the kit? H1 or D2R? I just dnt want to get a new HID kit to find out it wont fit. Cheers.

hey mate, interested in a hid kit. Can you possibly tell me what globe type i need for R34 Gt-t. Had factory xenons in it but they were removed on compliance. Also can you tell me is there a diff between the philips and bosch kits? What sort of warranty is offered?

PM sent. Thanks.