JimX

Oh, ah, by intake piping I mean everything behind the airflow meters up to the plenum (intercooler piping). Which would surely affect how it breathes somehow, otherwise the previous owner wouldn't have done it. In front of the AFM's it just has 2 HKS pods, which I would like to replace with non-oiled filters (apexi are my favourite) and some sort of cold air box. Do you think it's just the pods that are doing it? I would have thought that the pods would just make the chuffing more audible. The idle is also fairly nice and smooth, just uniformly too high all the time. It doesn't even get the stalling problem that my GTS had (but that could be because it's idling too high to stall).

I thought my A/C unit was out of gas because it was blasting warm air out when set to 21 degrees, but when I set it down to 18 it switched to cold air but only had the fan at the lowest speed. Then gradually started to blow warmer air, although still cool. Does anyone know what's wrong here? Is there an adjustment somewhere I can do, or do I have to replace one or more sensors?

Another "yes you can wind back electronic odometers" story. When I worked at a Ford dealership in 1990 my boss (auto electrical section) had a little gizmo locked in a cupboard where you plugged in the speedo and manually set whatever odometer reading you liked. This was for Fairlanes etc that had the digital odometer readout. This was only when necessary of course, when a customer had a buggered dash and needed replacing. I don't know if you could only set unused odometers with this thing and then it flagged it as unable to be changed, but even if so it'd just be the extra price of a new speedo to have whatever mileage you wanted. Also about the service interval - I have two R33 owner's manuals here, one says that the oil change interval is 5000km regardless of model, the other says 10000km for turbo models and 15000km for non turbo models. I suspect that the latter is the original, and someone's done an update somewhere along the line to help force people to take care of their cars. I always like to halve the recommended service interval of my vehicles, but I've never seen any factory recommended oil change interval less than 10000km except for motorcycles. If the R33 was originally 5000km it would be a first and I would be surprised. My motorcycle's interval is 6000km and it has a 11000rpm redline.

I was typing up a thread asking about this because I didn't know what to search for and even didn't know how to describe it properly, but suddenly decided to stab at searching for "+vent* +noise +air +boost" and turned this up. So thank you Mark Morris for making this thread and using the right words This seems like the same problem I have. Going back to stock bovs would be nice, but is there a cheaper (free) way to do it? I'll do that if I have to, but it means having to spend money and look for a pair to buy and probably re-manufacture some of the plumbing (I seem to have HKS intake plumbing). Are there any lines that can be linked to help? eg vacuum lines, AFM wiring, exhaust/intake? etc. I also have the high idle problem which I have gathered from searching is due to a vacuum leak, but I can't find it even after spraying half a can of Start Ya Bastard around the place.

I've got a PowerFC for sale, thread is here and right on the money you wanted to spend. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=112969 I can pay for shipping if you like considering the shape of the hand controller.

I need some stuff! I am willing to swap with cash adjustment either way for a good quality head unit with DVD/mp3 playback capability. Movie playback and TV screen is not essential or even necessarily preferred, I just want to fit more mp3's onto one disk Also I might be interested in a decent set of split 2 way speakers. I am not interested in an amplifier or subwoofer as I already have these items. I also *may* be interested in an S-AFC II but I am not 100% sure yet. Please pm me with interest but right now a new head unit is the main priority.

Sorry the injectors have been sold, I updated the original post earlier but didn't put a reply in the thread.

I may separate them, but make an offer around $750 anyway and I'll consider it. How much do you want for the FPR and how soon could you get it to me? I think I will be getting it from Just Jap today.

Update for PowerFC, it is finally out of the car and available again because MattSR found another one while he was waiting for me to get my finger out! I have put details in the original post.

Update: I added pic of injectors. One of the filter screens is damaged which is what the other pic is of specifically. I don't know how, they were good before I had them installed by my mechanic, and I definitely didn't damage it on removing them. It would be a good idea to get this injector flow tested (if not all of them) before installing them, in case any of the screen is blocking the injector. I think it's ok though because I had no issues at all with these injectors. I definitely would have noticed misfiring if this one was even partially blocked. Possibly my mechanic damaged them before installing and just removed the loose bits of screen. I'll never know. Because of the hassle of this I may get all these cleaned and flow tested again myself and the screen repaired. The fuel regulator won't come out until sometime this week when I can get hold of a factory fuel regulator. I won't take pics of it yet in case I don't have time to remove it.

Bump with a bit of info. Capa have a kit for an RB20/25, which consists of a GT35/40R, wastegate, manifold, dump/front pipe, gaskets, and oil/water lines. pic of kit The differences are: 1. Capa uses the 0.70 A/R front for their GT35, but probably a smaller A/R rear than the XR6T turbo (not specified on the site). Both turbos are going to lag somewhat, but the larger rear/smaller front turbo will probably have slightly less lag and more top end than the other. Whatever the case, Capa don't think that this turbo is too laggy for use on an RB20. (they may be wrong though but for their asking price I'm sure they'll be happy to sell it to anyone) 2. Capa's manifold is most likely better quality manifold than the one I'm selling. But mine still seems to be of quite decent quality and is reinforced. The Ebay auction I bought it from said it was SS321 stainless, which is the better grade for turbo manifolds (better heat resistance). I've got no way of confirming that though because I'm not a metalurgist. 3. Capa's kit includes oil and water lines but I hadn't bought them yet. Horsepowerinabox have a set for $260 or $285 depending on if you want braided or not. 4. Capa's kit is an external wastegate setup. Mine is internal, but there are plenty of people that are getting big numbers out of this internal setup. For mild street use on the cheap, I think this setup is really good value. That's why I bought it! 5. Capa want $6226 for their kit. It is no doubt better than what I'm selling, but consider that even if you throw in the price of oil/water lines, you get almost the same setup for under $2000. Even if you ditch the Ebay manifold and get a proper Japanese one for $1000, it's still under half the price for the equivalent setup. I never said this was perfect, but I think it is damned cheap for what it is. I look at this turbo sitting in the box and I keep wishing I could have put it on my car. If I could keep my car I would love to install it and write a mega post about it but unfortunately my car needs to be sold fairly soon. If I don't get a decent enough offer on the turbo though, in a year or 2 I would like to buy another GTS-t and put this turbo on it.

What does an extra "R" in an RB26 engine number mean? For example, the number goes "RB26R02..." etc. Is there any way of finding out what car the engine originally came from? I had a quick look at the FAST software but I didn't notice anything about engine numbers.

I think it wouldn't hit boost on an RB20 until over 5000. I don't think anyone's put one on an RB20 yet but if you want to be a pioneer you can try. Inlet flange is T3

Well, I was going to put it on an RB25 (the manifold I got is for an RB25 if you want to see proof of that ), so the RB26 can only go better. Fatz put one on his RB26, check out his thread about it: XR6T turbo on RB26. In fact I had a good read of this thread before deciding to buy the turbo. My old T3/4 doesn't hit full boost (1 bar) until about 4800 anyway so I was already used to driving a lag monster. This was going to be my ultimate cheapass upgrade until I suddenly had to get rid of my car I was going to get all the required parts, turbo, manifold, oil/water lines, and weld up my own intake and front pipe mods, for just about spot on $2000 or maybe a bit over depending on how much steel tubing I'd need for the exhaust. Which I didn't think was too bad considering that Ford sell the same turbo for around $3k and similar big turbos with external wastegate retail for around $1700+, if it's a cheap price. I don't think my price is too bad if you want to do the same upgrade path as was going to, I am probably going to lose money on this in the end (I'm barely covering my costs at $1650).

http://www.jdmoc.com/

Easy 500-600hp+. It's a Garrett ball bearing turbo with steel wheels so it should hold 25-30psi easily, with a higher sprung wastegate actuator. I believe there are Falcon owners getting 400rwkw out of these turbos, but check the XR6T forums for details. It will make an easy 300rwkw+ on an RB25, which is what I was aiming for.

Only the injectors from those 3 things are currently available and I'm asking $500. Sorry for not updating my original post, I'll do that now to save confusion.

No sorry.

It is the standard XR6T turbo, which is 0.50A/R front and 1.06A/R (I think) rear. The rear housing is the only internal wastegate housing at present for the GT35 so far as I know, and made specifically for Ford by Garrett, hence the "Ford" badge stamped into the rear. I believe Garrett are releasing their own internal wastegate housings soon for various bigger turbos. PM Discopotato for more info on that, he's the resident Garrett expert I have heard rumours that the compressor is smaller than the "normal" GT3540R, but I have also heard someone refute that rumour. I have measuring calipers at home and can measure front and back wheels tonight if you like. The compressor housing is definitely smaller than the normal GT3540R (which is 0.7 A/R) but the reason I bought it was because it was going on my RB25 and the smaller housing would have reduced lag. I wasn't chasing more than 300rwkw so I wouldn't need the bigger 0.7 front.

These things need to go, I'll take $1700 for turbo and manifold. Or make an offer if this is still too much.

$120 including postage will be fine but the cam wheel is the most difficult item in the list for me to remove. I don't think I'd get a chance to remove it before the weekend but I'll see what I can do. I would like to put a "pending" on this sale because if I can't get the time to remove it before I sell the car then it will go with the car. I apologise in advance if this happens.

Coils are in perfect condition and working perfectly. I put them in earlier this year, so they'd be around 3 months old. And I've only done about 2000km since then I think? Whatever the case they are as new. I even cleaned off the powdered cardboard that was all over them from the packaging when they arrived. I will probably remove these tonight to put pics up.

Argh, you missed out by 1 minute! But I will answer your questions anyway in case for whatever reason MattSR doesn't take it. I hope I'm not convincing Matt to back out of the sale by all this info! It's tuned for an R33 Series 1.5, with a Garrett T3/4 turbo and Q45 AFM, front mount intercooler, custom front-facing plenum, 3.5 cat back exhaust, erm, that's all I can think of. The tune done by Hills Motorsports about 6 months ago made about 230rwkw at 1 bar from memory, but unfortunately I forgot to take the dyno readout home with me! I've had it for around 2 years I think? It was second hand from a parts importer but in near-new condition when I got it. I haven't looked under the kick panel lately but I imagine it's still in good condition. It has been in my car for about 20000km (I was running it with the tune it had on it until about 6 months ago). I don't have the model number handy but I think it's on the hand controller boot screen isn't it? I can look it up tomorrow. One last note about the PowerFC - since I need it to run the Q45 AFM, I can't get remove it from the car it until I get a standard RB25DET AFM to replace it with. That's all the info I have tonight, I have to go to bed now.

EVERYTHING IS SOLD!!! I'll just leave the PowerFC text here in case KamikazeR33 isn't happy with it, that will make it easier for me to refund his money and sell again without having to type everything up. Important notes about the PowerFC: It was bought second hand from Supra man a couple of years ago (imported from Japan), the model/serial number is PFC RB25 9009-0025. I had an extension cable but lost it so unfortunately I can't include it anymore. Also when I went searching for the hand controller, I found it in a box stained with something that had spilled down the front. In my effort to remove the stains, I polished off the text on the keys! Which you can see in the pic. Of course I was worried that it was ruined, so I hooked it all up again and it still works and the screen still readable, and I took pics of that too. I also disassembled it to see if anything had leaked inside but it all looks untouched, again I took a photo of that. If you can find a cheap dead hand controller but with a good case, you can replace the exterior and it will be as good as new. Because so many people wanted these items for $750, instead of taking that price as an instant I will ask for the best offer around or over $750 and leave the bidding open for a few days. I'm not trying to profiteer here, because I am having problems selling some items and I've had to drop the price on a lot of them far more than I'd originally hoped so it's more about recouping potential losses (assuming someone wants to pay more than $750). With the hand controller the way it is though, I would be quite happy with $750. I will send both items express post on Thursday if I have a good enough offer by then, so that the buyer can get it before the weekend. Or if the buyer is in Sydney they can pick up. The PowerFC still has my tune in it which I paid $600 for, however I don't expect that to add that full amount to the value of it because every engine is different. However it would give you a better than normal starting point, especially with 550cc injectors, and it should save your tuner a bit of time. I have reset the injector value to normal 370cc injectors though (100% and 0ms) and the AFM value back to standard, for normal plug & play.

I didn't put up any prices for any of the other stuff because I haven't had time to research the prices of new or second hand gear from other sources yet. But since people have a habit of replying saying "you can get product X for $Y" when people post a too-high price, I will say $1500 for both. I know that's too high, so when someone replies with a source that is cheaper, I will drop the price accordingly Otherwise wait until tomorrow and I'll look up prices and get back to you.