JimX

I'll take one, check pm!

Apologies, I got my terminology wrong but that's what I was referring to. I have heard stories of thieves knowing of the Quicktrak dead zones and driving or towing the car there before they can be found by the police. I agree that it's probably better this way than having a GPS tracker easily jammed, but this is also why it costs more and has an ongoing fee. But I would think that a GPS tracker is better than nothing at all if you don't want to pay the yearly fee, or if you don't live in a decent coverage area. I think that if your car was worth more than the insurance could cover, it would pay to have both types of trackers. I know of someone who had an R32 GTR that had 6 digits spent on it that had this sort of setup (and probably more I didn't hear about). Even after all this, I am just waiting for some sort of widespread activity to be considered to be terrorism or an act of war, which most policies won't cover at all.

Carminder can be set up to ring you on triggers, it's just switched off by default. Personally I can't see much wrong with Carminder other than the fact that you can block the GPS signal. But if you are really concerned about that, sign up for Quicktrak as well. But even Quicktrak can be disabled by going into a GSM "dead zone" so nothing's perfect unless you buy extra bits to make up for the drawbacks of the first bits. There's no guarantees to keep your car safe, because if a professional wants it, he will get it. Even the best security devices can be bypassed with a gun to your head and that doesn't even require the thief to be skillful at all. But that's why you also get insurance no matter what security devices you have, because that is really the only guarantee that you'll at least be compensated should the worst happen. The perfect solution I reckon is to lynch all car thieves like they did to horse thieves in the old west, until there's none left. Hmm, maybe that's more of a "final solution"

Paul, how well do you think the RB25 timing settings translate into an RB26? Could I use your tune as a basic guide to see where I can bump up the timings a fair bit (like I did on my GTS) or are they so different that I may as well not bother? Just talking about the light load off-boost timings here, I will leave the power tune up to the dyno and the professionals.

Got mine on Friday I think, haven't had a chance to fit it yet. Looks good! The packaging is great too, seems to use as much aluminium as the product! Thanks mate!

I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are just there to stop the lower O-ring from falling off. I faced a similar concern when I put my old car back to stock, some of the caps were broken but looking solid enough so I re-used them anyway. This opinion is just based on my observation when removing and installing the injectors, but the car seemed to run fine afterwards. It may be though that they stop a bit of turbulence of the fuel spray washing back over to the O-ring.

Still waiting for mine. Has it been sent yet?

If you will separate, I'll offer $700 for the PowerFC and hand controller. I sold my GTS-t PFC+HC for $700, but I can appreciate that you might want more than that so if so, please let me know what your best price is.

Yes, and no. It is definitely not sending the signal to fire the spark plugs (no spark at all), and possibly the signal to open the injectors because I couldn't smell any fuel when it wasn't starting. And I think it intermittently wasn't sending the rev signal to the tacho. But apart from that it primed the fuel pump, so it wasn't completely dead. I figured that the fuel pump cycling off and on was due to a flat(ish) battery. Charged it up and it was fine on that part.

Got it all sorted, special thanks to Jerry for helping me out! I wish I had thought to test the ECU before anything else, because then the car would have been running over a week ago. It hasn't been a total loss though, having all the wiring apart means it'll be quite easy to install the tracking device I bought and had sitting on the shelf since before I even got the car. It was just too much effort to install until now, insurance made me lazy! Additional notes for anyone that might get a similar problem in future: 1. The dash doesn't need to be plugged in at all for the engine to start and run. In fact a whole bunch of things don't need to be plugged in. 2. The factory immobiliser can be easily removed permanently if it's giving you problems (please pm me about this if you need to know how). 3. ECU's that aren't completely dead suck total arse!

Just wanted to say an absolutely HUMUNGOUS THANK YOU to wrxhoon for helping me sort this out. Firstly my ECU wouldn't start his GTR, then to make sure nothing else was wrong we tested my car with his working ECU and it fired up easily. Now all I have to do is make sure the alternator isn't overcharging the battery so it doesn't fry the replacement. Edit: New ECU going in car tonight after I pick it up!

I've spoken to someone that sells the Jaycar splits and a few other brands, he said that they are ok but definitely not as good as the higher end stuff and he mainly sells them because there's always someone that wants something cheap. He recommended the Pioneer splits as probably being the best bang for buck subject to listening preferences, and he sells more expensive brands so he wasn't just trying to sell the most expensive item he had.

Ok I'm getting a bit sick of not knowing which part of my electrics is actually faulty, so I was wondering if someone could help me test my ECU. I'd like to take my ECU out and plug it into another GTR (32 or 33) and see if it does all the same crap, which is not prime the fuel pump and not get a spark and hence doesn't start at all. If it works, then obviously it must be in my loom or immobiliser or something. Or if anyone can let me know of a way to test it for certain, then please let me know. Thanks!

Ah, I think I figured out what it is. There's an electronic torque splitter in the dash. It must be wired into the 4WD module to control the settings. I don't know what that other module is but I don't think it matters. Time to look elsewhere. Well, time to go to bed first (sigh)

Ok I've got most of the immobiliser loom removed, just tricky getting to the last bit on the inner guard. I'll worry about that later. What I've now found is a bunch of wiring in the boot, with some clearly aftermarket splicing going on, probably related to the immobiliser due to using the same plastic joiner things. There are 2 items which weren't in my GTS-t and even though it has a Nissan stamp on it, I can't understand why it would need this dodgy spliced wiring. The object in the last pic has some wires which go into the fuel pump loom, but I don't know if they have anything to do with the fuel pump. It makes no difference to anything if I disconnect this bit, the fuel pump still pulses off and on when the ignition is on. Pic descriptions, in order: 1. Nissan stamp 47850 24U00 on top of the box I removed with all the wires going into it. 2. The total mess of spliced wiring behind the object. 3. The space from which I removed the object. 4. Weird object that doesn't make a difference when I unplug it. Can someone help me identify anything here and what I should do with it all?

Thanks Chris, working on it now with your advice

I've got what seems to be a factory immobiliser which I think is playing havoc with my car and preventing it from starting. Originally it was just stopping the spark, but after I unplugged it and plugged it back in, the fuel pump now pulses off and on several times a second continuously when I switch the ignition on, instead of priming for 5 seconds. Once it also primed for 5 seconds, then stopped for a few seconds, then primed for another 5 seconds, etc. But now it's just in the "pulse" mode. Can someone please give me rough guidelines about how to ditch the factory immobiliser permanently? I only got 1 key with the car and no remote button, so even if it's just armed rather than broken I've got no way of ever disarming it. I already have an aftermarket immobiliser installed (by someone else) and I think this might have damaged something else when installed alongside the factory immobiliser. I didn't know it had a factory immobiliser until I ripped the dash apart to find out what was going on. If someone can pm me the pin in-outs on the green plug that would greatly appreciated. I can provide proof that I own the car, plus photographs of what I've disassembled so far if need be. The fuel pump problem is a major concern though, I'm starting to think that my ECU might be partially fried due to this wiring mess. Someone want to lend me an ECU as well?

Do you still have radiator and headlights? I think I sent a pm a couple of days ago, if not then please send me one anyway.

I've tried that but it doesn't really work. Whatever I hear as "nice" in a shop sounds different in a car. All I've found is that I can figure out what models to avoid, but in the past they've all been cheapass brands/models anyway so all I learned is that I need to spend at least $200+ to get anything nice. I think it's more useful to ask fellow forum goers what sounds good in a Skyline I will go listen in a shop anyway especially if it's something that is common and popular like the Pioneer TSC160R's. But I don't expect it to help much.

I did my Bosch 044 myself a few years ago because my mechanic didn't want to do it. Hard to get the right fittings etc. Also it was very difficult to get the pickup right down into the bottom of the tank. A dodgy install will pickup about 1/4 of the way off the bottom, so you tend to run out of petrol at that point and get fuel surge (read: leaning out) at more than that when you corner fast. In fact when I first installed mine I had that problem (but at just below the Empty line) and I could first tell it was a problem when I went around a corner and the engine cut out momentarily. I wasn't flooring it though so luckily no leaning out problem. But I ripped it out and installed it properly. I had deliberately run it low to test and see if I would get this problem. I don't have any photos because I lost them, but the exact same pump is doing a transplant within the next few weeks so I'll definitely make sure I get photos and post them up while it's out.

Hmm weird. I wonder why it needs to work, because the tacho shouldn't have to do anything other than report what the ECU is telling it. My tacho stopped working intermittently it never caused the engine any problems at all, not even rough running or excessive fuel usage. Well, no more excessive than it already was I might have to swap the dash out and see. Is the GTS-t dash compatible with the GTR loom and ECU?

Dash is plugged in, but I suspect it's either not making contact somewhere, or I fried one of the components. If you know which bits are required to work to make it start, please let me know. Mad082, I was using a worklight but not off the car battery. And this thing was very sudden. Started first kick before removing dash, then not even almost starting after removing/replacing dash. Either way there's no spark as confirmed with spark plug lead test, and I think there'd be a weak spark if it was the battery. I'm going to charge the battery tonight anyway because there was a moderate amount of turning over whenever I tried a fix. The battery should last a lot longer, but as you say I want to rule it out. If it *is* the battery I'd be extraordinarily surprised because the battery the car came with was weak and it took an effort to start (you could hear the starter struggling) but my current battery still winds over at full speed.

I found in a text file that black/red stripe is the ignition wire, and I found such a wire near the steering column which gets 12V when I switch it on. But then the wire goes into the immobiliser loom which is all wrapped up in electrical tape. I guess it's a start. Time to pack up and continue tomorrow.

Cowie yep it's hard being a car fan when you are also a fast bike fan I forgot to mention that I had an immobiliser installed as soon as I got it, and it's been working fine except these past few days. And also I found what seems to be a factory immobiliser on a green plug under the dash (see below). The NRMA guy just came and went, and he confirmed that there's no ignition as I suspected but couldn't offer any advice on where the break might be. He said it must be the new immobiliser somehow. I didn't tell him I pulled the dash out because he didn't know anything about Skylines. When I unplugged the factory immobiliser the fuel pump made horrible stuttering noises when I switched on (pulsing off/on), and the door switches didn't work anymore for either the alarm or the interior light. It could be the cause of the ignition problems, but I only unplugged it after it wouldn't start. I plugged it back in just to get the light and pump working properly but it might be stuck in "kill ignition" mode. Is there a way to override it? I don't suppose anyone knows what colour wires I'm looking for to trace the ignition wire? Going back into it now, it's gonna be a long night.

After I pulled the dash out to check my intermittently working tacho again, the car will now not start at all. It doesn't even attempt to kick over, it just winds and winds like something's cutting the ignition. Is there anything in the dash that's required to make the engine run? Like, could I have destroyed something in there when I had it apart? I've checked all fuses, and the battery has a full charge (it's bigger than standard), and the fuel pump primes and I think all dash lights except the engine warning light come on when I turn the key on. While cranking the engine warning light goes on but I don't know if that's normal. It almost certainly had to be something I did in the dash or in the wiring around the dash, I didn't even open the bonnet during all this. The fact that the tacho was only intermittently working beforehand gives weight to a problem around the dash. Can anyone give me some ideas, like which wires to trace for ignition and possibly injectors? Or recommend an on-site auto electrician that's good with Skylines in the Sydney area? (north side) Thanks! No car on weekend make Homer go something something.