JimX

The easiest way to work out what I'm saying is if you download the Brembo disc catalogue from here - http://www.brembo.com/NR/rdonlyres/B059B96...schiinghisa.pdf (same as what I linked above) and go to pages 25 and 26, and play "spot the difference" between the 2 part numbers 09.5682.70 and 09.5900.70 by paging up and down between them. They're lined up with each other nicely so it's easy to do. There are only 3 things different, the air gap, weight, and inner flange diameter. The last one is the only thing that will matter to fitting my old hats, because it's this part that the hat fits into. If the flange is too small, my hat won't fit. If it's too large, there will be too much free play or it might even slip down and get wedged in at an angle. I will measure my hats again tonight or tomorrow when I have time to take the disc off again, but I think the only way this will give me a definitive answer is if I find that it's 191mm in diameter, which will obviously mean the 190mm flange disc is too small. If it's between 190 and 194mm though, then either disc will fit and I won't know if the smaller disc will be too tight or the larger disc too loose, or even if either disc will be fine.

Ever had a pleasant surprise and dismay all rolled into one? That's what happened when I went to change the discs and pads on my GTR the other day, after having already bought factory sized rotors and pads. After removing the pads I discovered that I have upgraded brakes that I didn't know about and I've had the car for over a year now. Luckily I was able to get a refund, but now I'm kind of stuck. I have found a list of Brembo discs here - http://www.brembo.com/NR/rdonlyres/B059B96...schiinghisa.pdf I believe I have an F40 or F50 caliper. The discs are 332x32mm (new size) and I have found 2 different Brembo discs which may suit, the main difference being the hat flange size. My discs seem to have too much of a gap between the inner flange and the hats. I know that there needs to be a gap there to allow for the different expansion rates of the aluminium and cast iron, but I have a a lot of free play there. More than is present in this photo - http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm Incidentally, the above site has an aftermarket disc which has the smaller flange diameter of 190mm. I haven't measured my hats yet, but so far it seems like the previous owner has put the larger flange diameter discs on (194mm) when it should have had the 190mm ones. But I don't know what the gap is meant to be around the edge. If it's meant to be 2mm then I won't be able to get these discs. But if it's less (as in, what it seems to be in the above link) then I think it'll be ok to get these discs. Does anyone know what the replacement name/brand disc and hat is for these brakes and where I can get them? Edit: I believe the Brembo part numbers I need to get are either 09.5682.70/80 or 09.5900.70/80 for the 190/194mm flange diameter respectively.

I have also put this up in Carsales, sorry for the bad formatting but I just wanted to get it posted here so it's just cut and pasted from the Carsales ad. I'll fix the formatting when I have more time. Car is a series 1.5 R33 GTS-t, but has series 1 grille. Serviced every 5000km with synthetic oil. Timing belt replaced. Always garaged, never used for commuting (mostly weekend driver) and never taken to a track. Spotless paintwork, no dings. Drives very smooth and fairly quick. Mods worth well over $5000 include: Type M front bar, Whiteline sports suspension (castor rod bushes and swaybars), Bilstein shocks, RB74 brake pads (near new), DBA slotted front rotors (near new), Garrett T04E turbo (flows 450hp), 3.5in stainless steel exhaust, Front mount intercooler, Custom GTR-style plenum, Electronic boost controller, Sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Oil catch can, 18in wheels with good rubber, Adjustable timing cam gear, pager alarm and separate additional three point immobiliser. I also have Type M sideskirts which I'll include for free but they aren't painted yet. The car also used to have a PowerFC installed and tuned to around 220rwkw which I have now sold, but I have the tune printed out and am happy to give it to the new owner for free. Currently I would estimate the car to be around 170-180rwkw. I am asking $15900 in the Carsales ad but the starting haggle price for SAU members is $15400. Alternatively if someone from SAU wants to pay me my full initial asking price of $15900, I will donate $500 to SAU! However I don't expect anyone will pay the full amount so I'm probably going to keep dropping the price slowly and steadily until it sells. My phone number is 0434 007 754

Does r33-sky and gts-t_97 seem like the same person to anyone else?

I used them on my 33GTS and I really liked them even though I never took it to a track. When cold they are only marginally not as good, and by the time I've done 1-2 normal stops (like at the end of my street and first intersection after) they would be warm enough to feel great. The front right wheel was the only one that squealed, I'd clean the brakes and it'd be fine for awhile but come back, in the end I realised it was because of one of the pistons binding slightly causing uneven pad wear on that corner. I was going to overhaul it when I changed the pads the first time but no one had the kit. Since then Racebrakes had the kit in stock and I overhauled the caliper and never had any squeals since. That's just street driving and weekend twisties driving though, I don't know if they get noisy when they get uber hot.

One thing I noticed and I'm fairly sure about is the AFM's are different between the R32 and R33. When my R33 ECU died, I bought an R32 ECU because it was all I could find. It worked, but the car chewed through a lot more petrol. Like 22-25L/100km around town, and around 18-19L/100km on the highway. It was running so rich that the whole back and some of the top of my boot lid started accumulating exhaust crap, as opposed to just the rear bumper and some of the back of the boot lid. A few weeks later I got a PowerFC and noticed that in the AFM menu it has different entries for the R32 and R33 AFM's and I don't see why they would bother unless they're different. Since my car was running way too rich with R33 AFM's and an R32 ECU, I would imagine that going the other way (R32 AFM's and R33 ECU) would be make it too lean. But the knock sensor would probably take care of that so you might not notice any problems other than having less power. It won't matter if you are just swapping the engines but keeping the rest the same, but thought I would point it out in case other bits are being swapped.

How much including postage to Sydney? I don't actually need the box itself just the motors, I was just going to pick up the ruined box to save the owner from having to throw it out

Wanted: One damaged washer bottle, as long as one or both motors work. Prefer at least one working motor, otherwise the item wanted is 2 damaged washer bottles Should be the same motors for GTS or GTR so I'm not fussed which. Pickup Sydney preferred!

And I am pretty sure that's even more warranty than you'll get from Splitfire themselves, because when I got mine a couple of years ago the documentation specifically said that the warranty is only valid in Japan. Unless they've changed their warranty policy recently. $490 is a bargain, I would buy them in an instant if I was after some.

Is it better to re-do the wiring, yes. Is it necessary, maybe not. I ran a Bosch 044 pump for 3 years without any problems with the factory wiring. This includes a 350km trip up north in the middle of a hot summer, and the pump ran so loud you could hear it over the stereo and air conditioning. It used to get louder the hotter it got for some reason. I was actually waiting for it to crap out and ring the NRMA for a tow and a hotel room, but it never skipped a beat and is still going strong 2 summers later and the wiring has no signs of melting or burning. However, if your wiring melts or your car explodes it's not my fault! This is just my tale, I would have upgraded the wiring if I could have been bothered attaching new wires to the fiddle factory connectors. Also if running the pump externally though a surge tank, I wouldn't re-use the factory wiring.

I don't know the specifics of the temp sensor but I imagine that when not connected then the ECU will think that the temperature is either maximum or minimum within its temperature range due to having no voltage. Whichever way the reading is wrong, the temperature of where you are probably isn't close enough to the ECU's idea of what the temp is, and so the mixture will be too rich or lean. Think of trying to start an old car in cold weather without putting the choke on.

Got the bracket, no longer required!

I typed this up into the DIY forum, but it seems to have disappeared or needs to be approved or something. So in case it's gone into the void or it doesn't quality, I've copied it into here as well. -------- I had an intermittent tacho, which gradually declined into a full non-working tacho for the past month or so. After finally getting the time to rip the cluster out again and doing what I described below, the tacho started working straight away. I'm not 100% sure this is what fixed it but I'm fairly confident it has. This procedure may apply to different cars with similar setups, just check the correct pins and plugs etc. It's fairly straightforward. Diagnosis: What I found is the metal tag on the black loom plug that goes into the tacho (the lower one on the side with 2 plugs on it, the right side as you look forwards) was sitting a bit lower than the other 2 on either side of it. Since this plugs into a socket which has a stiff plastic sheet for holding the connectors, I imagine that the 2 higher tags were lifting the sheet up and out of the way to make the contact with the tacho signal wire dodgy at best, and depending on how the car flexes and moves as you drive, possibly breaking all contact. Procedure: 1. Remove the instrument cluster (not covered in this DIY, should be somewhere else in this forum) 2. Find the plug that goes into the tacho. On mine (R33 GTR) it's the lower plug on the right side looking forwards. 3. Find the tacho signal wire pin/tag on the loom plug. On mine, it's the pin that goes into something labelled "TAM" in the cluster socket, which is a track that goes directly into a bolt that holds the tacho on. The signal pin on mine sits between 2 other metal tags in the only group of 3 tags on the black plug. 4. Clean the metal tags and the copper track contacts with some electrical contact cleaner, plus maybe rub clean with something non-abrasive. 5. With a pair of jeweler's screwdrivers or similar (safety pins should be fine), very gently prise up the metal tag on either side of the middle, where the bend in the metal is, to make it flush with the 2 on either side of it. Try to keep the pressure uniform on both sides to avoid over stressing the metal. 6. Plug the dash back in and test it before reassembling everything, to make sure it works, or that you haven't made things worse. 7. If it's all now working, reassemble everything and have a celebrationary beer for having saved yourself a couple of hundred for a new tacho/dash cluster. 7a. If it's still not working, at least now you have ruled your loom/plug as a problem, and can more easily send your dash out for repair or replace it with another one. One more amateur diagnosis check: When I had everything apart, I checked the resistance on the tacho signal wire for the hell of it. The resistance went quickly from some high value to open circuit, each time I tested it and swapped to the earth next to it and back again. Since my tacho now works, I imagine this reading is indicative of a properly working tacho signal wire. If you have an earth here instead, or it doesn't skip from high resistance to open circuit, or some uniform low resistance value, then you might have a problem with your signal wire. I'm not an expert here, so this is just speculation and something for you to try while it's all apart. NOTE: DON'T DO THIS WITH THE IGNITION ON!!! I always check voltages before resistance, to make sure I'm not buzzing out a 12V live feed.

I had an intermittent tacho, which gradually declined into a full non-working tacho for the past month or so. After finally getting the time to rip the cluster out again and doing what I described below, the tacho started working straight away. I'm not 100% sure this is what fixed it but I'm fairly confident it has. This procedure may apply to different cars with similar setups, just check the correct pins and plugs etc. It's fairly straightforward. Diagnosis: What I found is the metal tag on the black loom plug that goes into the tacho (the lower one on the side with 2 plugs on it, the right side as you look forwards) was sitting a bit lower than the other 2 on either side of it. Since this plugs into a socket which has a stiff plastic sheet for holding the connectors, I imagine that the 2 higher tags were lifting the sheet up and out of the way to make the contact with the tacho signal wire dodgy at best, and depending on how the car flexes and moves as you drive, possibly breaking all contact. Procedure: 1. Remove the instrument cluster (not covered in this DIY, should be somewhere else in this forum) 2. Find the plug that goes into the tacho. On mine (R33 GTR) it's the lower plug on the right side looking forwards. 3. Find the tacho signal wire pin/tag on the loom plug. On mine, it's the pin that goes into something labelled "TAM" in the cluster socket, which is a track that goes directly into a bolt that holds the tacho on. The signal pin on mine sits between 2 other metal tags in the only group of 3 tags on the black plug. 4. Clean the metal tags and the copper track contacts with some electrical contact cleaner, plus maybe rub clean with something non-abrasive. 5. With a pair of jeweler's screwdrivers or similar (safety pins should be fine), very gently prise up the metal tag on either side of the middle, where the bend in the metal is, to make it flush with the 2 on either side of it. Try to keep the pressure uniform on both sides to avoid over stressing the metal. 6. Plug the dash back in and test it before reassembling everything, to make sure it works, or that you haven't made things worse. 7. If it's all now working, reassemble everything and have a celebrationary beer for having saved yourself a couple of hundred for a new tacho/dash cluster. 7a. If it's still not working, at least now you have ruled your loom/plug as a problem, and can more easily send your dash out for repair or replace it with another one. One more amateur diagnosis check: When I had everything apart, I checked the resistance on the tacho signal wire for the hell of it. The resistance went quickly from some high value to open circuit, each time I tested it and swapped to the earth next to it and back again. Since my tacho now works, I imagine this reading is indicative of a properly working tacho signal wire. If you have an earth here instead, or it doesn't skip from high resistance to open circuit, or some uniform low resistance value, then you might have a problem with your signal wire. I'm not an expert here, so this is just speculation and something for you to try while it's all apart. NOTE: DON'T DO THIS WITH THE IGNITION ON!!! I always check voltages before resistance, to make sure I'm not buzzing out a 12V live feed.

Thought I'd do a quick search on this before writing up my post, and it seems to be a more common problem than I thought! I had a similar problem, tacho often not working until the car warmed up, sometimes working fine anytime, and sometimes not at all. But more recently it's been working less and less so I pulled the instruments out to take a look (about my third time actually). What I found is the metal tag on the black loom plug that goes into the tacho (the lower one on the side with 2 plugs on it, the right side as you look forwards) was sitting a bit lower than the other 2 on either side of it. Since this plugs into a socket which has a stiff plastic sheet for holding the connectors, I imagine that the 2 higher tags were lifting the sheet up and out of the way to make the contact with the tacho signal wire dodgy at best, and depending on how the car flexes and moves as you drive, possibly breaking all contact. I used a pair of jeweler's screwdrivers on either side to gently lift up the metal tag so that it was flush with the other 2, if not a fraction of a millimetre higher. I figure that even if pressed up slightly in the middle by a single tag, the plastic sheet would still bend down easier to make contact with the 2 tags on the outside. I am not 100% sure that this has fixed it, for all I know there could be a dry joint or something in the tacho itself causing this and this was just a coincidence that it's started working again. But I'm fairly confident that this has fixed it and it won't cost you anything other than a bit of your time to work on the instrument cluster to at least check this first. Definitely worth a shot before sending the dash to a repair workshop or buying another dash, if only to rule it out as a possible cause. I am going to write this up in the general maintenance and DIY forum as well, because I've seen a few people with this problem and I imagine it may not only apply to Skylines but any car with a similar plastic sheet contact setup that the Skyline dash has.

Yes I need a series 1 headlight so that is perfect I can come around and pick up everything tomorrow afternoon/night if that's ok?

I will take any or all of these if you can ship to Sydney, let me know how much you'd like: Right headlight Washer bottle (water washer you mentioned above?) Radiator overflow bottle Thanks!

Is that a no about the washer bottle? I got an email from you awhile back saying you'd get back to me later but I don't think I got any further replies. Please send me a pm.

Can I pleeeeeeze buy the windscreen washer bottle? Let me know how much extra you'd like for postage to Sydney. Thanks!

I will take it for $50pp to Sydney if you like? I sent a pm a few days ago.

Does anyone know what torque settings to use on the HICAS mounting bolts? I have a torque wrench and I want to use it, dammit!

I can come and pick it up this weekend if you don't want to post it

I have been using them, because I get them where I get my Motul oil and that's what they sell (Autobarn). I'm not an oil filter expert but I haven't had any problems, but maybe I haven't done enough km to be able to tell that the oil filter was sub-standard. I change them every 5000km anyway along with the oil.

I'll have to re-check my finances when you do the order, but tentatively put me down for a pair (for RB26, don't think there's a difference?) It doesn't matter what the final cost is, I'm willing to pay the full $180 as long as I can afford it at the time. Thanks!

+1 vote for eyepain