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Everything posted by terry.m
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Do you get much power increase with a boost controller and rasing op to about 9-10psi? Is it still OK to do so with a standard exhaust and intercooler?
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Excellent responses guys, thankx heaps. I’m glad that my current boost pressure appears ‘normal’. I’ve been beaten a few times at the lights by my mates ‘boosted’ MR2, an EVO and another 33 that obviously had mods (More likely due to the fact that I can’t drag for shit…I always end up sitting there spinning wheels…I don’t bother anymore :~). Hey, I understand where you are all coming from with the exhaust, I’ve just had some bad experiences with ‘custom’ jobs. I used to have an R31 and wasted a lot of money on 2 systems with crappy workmanship. I used to work as a fitter and turner so I know what I’m looking at. Obtaining good quality workmanship and advice in the exhaust industry in Adelaide is hard to find. The 1st system I bought was absolute crap! The welds weren’t complete and sealed resulting in leakage and the drone in the cabin was unbearable. The 2nd was done by one of the most expensive joints in Adelaide, this was just as bad. My car had to go back 3 times to have the bend over the diff corrected so it would hit when going over bumps. 5 Years ago they were charging $20 per mandrel bend…God only knows what they are charging now. If I still had access to the tools and machinery, I would do it myself When I look at a HKS or Trust system I see high quality welds and materials, perfect mandrel bends and I guess that you could guarantee that it will fit properly as it has been CAD designed specifically for the car.
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Oh OK...well that makes sense. If +7 = 13.5 and the needle is half way, all is good and running at stock boost (6 - 7 odd psi) Merli, I looked into those PowerPC units. Very impressive but $1500 (ouch!). The write up I read said that it can adjust boost pressure. Can this be done electronically? I thought that it could only be done like what Birnie suggested with a mechanical valve. Thanks for your help guys this is great...keep it coming
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For the life of me, I can’t understand the whole compliance process and all the REGENCY, ADR, SEVS, WHATEVER, requirements. You can’t tell me that a car that is 7 years old (which is way ahead of it’s time compared to the cars manufactured locally), coming from a country with 80+ million people, is less roadworthy or safe. There they are worrying about: - child capsule restraints (Yer…like I’m gonna have a capsule in the back of my 33) - Tyres with ‘M’ ratings - Stickers with ‘Unleaded Fuel only’ (Nah shit) - Spare wheels painted yellow with 50Kph stickers on them (Gee, I was thinking about taking my car down the quarter with the space saver on) I can understand if they need to make sure that the car is ‘roadworthy’ before it is registered (tread on tyres, brakes OK, Chassis OK, etc) but the pedantic BS that they worry about is unbelievable. It’s a mathematical certainty that most if not all of the imports that come off the boat are in better condition than the clapped out VB Commadores and XE Falcons cruising around Adelaide. (Ahhh…Those child capsule restraints…what an eye sore!) No wonder Nissan couldn’t be stuffed importing Skylines properly, too much BS. I really wished that I have my car registered in Qld before I had it shipped over, then I wouldn’t have received the treatment from the Gods at Regency.
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Hey all, I am relatively new to the turbo scene. I have always had an interest but my current 33 is the 1st turbo I have ever owned. Reading thru the forum, I come across a lot of acronyms like ‘s-afc’, etc , I am slowly figuring them out Following I are a few questions I have. Your replies are very much appreciated When I got my 33 (Stock as a rock), I couldn’t believe the power (You may laugh, but coming from an N13 Pulsar 1.6L U have to understand). However, the power is very easy to get used to so it’s time for some more…HuHuHuHu! The most that I have done is put in a K&N replacement air filter and reset the ECU. Now I’m by no means a rich man, I am currently saving up for a HKS or Trust 3” exhaust, High Flow Cat and 3” dump pipe. From your experiences, what would be the rough power gain from this exhaust modification? Does this exhaust mod increase turbo boost? I would really like to boost my 33 as well (not too much as I can’t afford a front mount intercooler). What is the cheapest way to do this, should I take my car to a turbo specialist? There are many threads that mention a ‘s-afc’ (Apexi) – Is this something I should seriously consider purchasing – does it increase power? Now I have a question about the standard boost gauge. You all know it ranges from –7 to +7 (I have know idea what it means but anyway…excuse my ignorance) When I give my car some stick, the most the needle will go is just above half way between 0 and +7…is this normal? I sort of figured that if the turbo was achieving full boost (stock) it would sit at +7. Thanks again for your replies.
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Sorry all, I'm yet to finish... I asked what was wrong with the 'still brand new' space saver. "It has to be painted yellow with a 50kph limit sticker on it" The brake pads were replaced but the discs werent machined (didnt need it). The pads had done a total 10Ks so they hadnt worn in completely. "Your pads are only touching 25% of the disc" - They havent worn in wanker!!! Off to the break tester, passed with flying coulors. So he hands me a slip on the 2 pissy items that I need to fix before it can get passed. I went off to get a new battery and then rang my compliancer in Qld. He went bunter, not at me but at Regency. He said "Terry, I have done EVERYTHING to the book!". He then paused and said "Hang on Terry, there is nothing in the book that states that you have to have a spare wheel at all" Excellent! I then approach the Ape with this info. He looks in his big book and says "Oh..OK" So, I have my 33 parked in the car park and my pulsar parked next to it. We both approach my 33 and he checks the battery - TICK OK. I then open the boot of my pulsar, remove the spare wheel from my 33 and put it in the boot of my pulsar - TICK OK. This is F***ing unbelievable! The Ape then goes "Hang on, your owners manual prolly has instructions on how to change the spare wheel" (Who gives a F***?) He flips thru the manual "Yep, here it is" I ask him what I should do about it - the wanker shrugs his shoulders. I then get the book, rip the F***ing page out - TICK OK...My 33 is now passed (5 F***ing hours later) You can imagine how much of a dmpner this put on my day, not to mention the $800 buck it cost to register and pay stamp duty.
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This is a very interesting thread, I will get around reading all replies (when I get the time). Yer, my experience at Regency was one of the most pathetic jokes imaginable. I imported my 33, got it complianced in Qld and then trucked over. As soon as I got it, gave it a quick wash then off to the 'shit hole'. I was hoping to be in and out in about 2hrs max. 1st stage was fine, then off 2 inspection. I get greeted by the rudest f**wit I have ever met in my life, off he goes with his MagLite torch. - "That battery is a standard battery. Batteries in the boot have to be fully sealed" - "That spare wheel doesn't meet national standard"
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Autoglym polish all the way...swear by it. Expensive but bloody worth it.
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What has been the best phrase someone has shouted at you
terry.m replied to Lozza150's topic in General Automotive Discussion
He he. Me and a bunch of mates a few years back had a Japanese tourist come up to us in our 31s and asked "You drive Skyrine?"...Nah S**t! -
What has been the best phrase someone has shouted at you
terry.m replied to Lozza150's topic in General Automotive Discussion
He he, when I was in high school I knew a guy that thought the XR8 obtained it's V8 note (exhaust) by the air passing thru its 'turbine look' alloy wheels...idiot! -
What has been the best phrase someone has shouted at you
terry.m replied to Lozza150's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I was at the intersection of South Tce and Pultney St and had a Dunnydore next to me. This 'wobblie' was walking across the lights and as he passed the front of my 33 he shouted " On your marks, get set GO!"...Yer back to Glenside with ya! -
Yer, I see what you mean Merli MINES_DATSUN opinions don't appear to be very welcome in other threads either. Paulr33: It just gripes me when some people feel the need to be-little others because they may have a faster/newer car. At the end of the day, we all have one thing in common, we all love Skylines regardless of year, series, model, etc. Anyway, therz my spit for the day...back to the topic at hand...Yep, I love my 33
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Why did this have to turn into a 'my car is better than your car' thing. Hmmm...starting to sound like a car club I used to be in a few years back. Everyone has different tastes and bank accounts. I'm just bloody grateful that I finally have one.
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Personally I don't think it is a huge problem. I had an R31 previously and was unfortunate enough to run up someones arse. The front end was pushed in a bit and I needed a new clutch fan (amongst body repairs). The front of the car was fixed etc. except there was one problem, when the engine was reved, the fan blades flexed so far forward they touched the radiator, forming a perfect circle on the radiator fins. Nissan had an engineer come from NSW to measure the engine distances, etc after the repairs and all was spot on. They tried 3 different genuine Nissan fans and they all did the same thing. I think that the flexing is normal...simply something you don't realise unless it is brought to your attention. If the fan has no movement in the shaft, don't worry too much about it. I also believe that different fans will flex more/less than others depending on the batch during manufacture and the consistency of the plastic.
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I used Shell Synthetic...it took just over 3 litres. Buy yorself a pump to fill it up with...makes life much easier :c)
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Heya, My Skyline has just been shipped over from Japan. There is a hell of a lot of oxidisation on the engine and undernieth the car..I would assume from salt while been stored near the wharf. Can anyone tell me how to remove it...steam cleaning? Did anyone have the same problem when they got their Skyline imported? The rest of the car is pretty schmick so I want the engine to follow suit
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Hey all, Well I finally received my R33 and have now had it for about a week. I am absolutely stoked with it. It's been a while since I drove one and I couldn't belive the effortless power...even in standard form (what my car is at the moment). 180km/hr @ 4900 rpm...piece of cake. I was really surprised to see a turbo timer and CD stacker in teh boot, 2 things that I didn't know about. I have changed all the oils: Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Shell Fully Synthetic gearbox oil Shell LSD Diff oil I must admit, before I changed the gearbox oil, the shift from 1st to 2nd was notchy but OK. Now with the new oil it's REAL crappy. Once the gearbox warms up it's not too bad but still not acceptable in my book. Gathering from old threads, a lot of you have experienced the same problem. I was thinking about adding Nulon gear treatment before I change the oil again...Any Thoughts??? Some of you have commented about the oil pressure with Helix, I am happy with the oil considering the price, oil pressure is OK. I have added new wheels and a K&N replacement filer. I think she needs a boost though, I'm getting used to the power already
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Hey all, I have made up a page for those beginners who want to know how to replace the spark plugs on the R33 (diagrams and all): http://members.optusnet.com.au/~terry_m/sp...spark_plugs.htm Over time I will hopefully add more to help those who want to know the basics in servicing their Skyline. I know my site is pretty crappy atm but I am really struck for time. Anyhoo, hope it'll help someone out there.
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Because it's "Try" Synthetic, the marketing was much more expensive
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Even though I don't have my R33 yet, I have been doing heaps of research on what oils to use. Ask companies like Autobarn, Supercheap, a simple question and you get a stupid answer. From what I can gather, Nissan recommends 7.5w-30 for the engine. Shell recommend the following for the R32 GTR, I can assume that most RB engines would be the same: Engine: Shell Helix Ultra (Synthetic) 15w-50 or 5w-40 Man Tranz: Shell Spirax CX 80w-90 Diff: Shell Spirax AX 80w-90 Power Steering: Shell ATF Dexron III There is a huge price difference. In Adelaide, Castrol Synthetic and Fuchs Titan oils are a rare find. Repco want $80+ for Castrol 0w-50 (Yer right). Mobil 1 seems to be around the $65 mark. I found Shell Helix Ultra at Big W for $43 for 5L. I currently use Helix Ultra in my N14 Pulsar and will prolly use all Shell products in my R33. Shell seems to be the better 'Bang for your Buck'. Castrol and Repco can shove their $80+ bucks...it can't be that much better.
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There is a product made by 'AutoGlym' that is magic at bringing black plastic and rubber up like new. It is a non-silicone product and it can only be purchased from crash repairer supply shops. 'AutoGlym' also make an excellent polish.
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I just bought an R33 manual thru Motor Traders...$250 It's heaps detailed, engine only though, no gearbox, diff etc Err...scanning 500 pages and compressing to pdf...would take a while
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Hey Lawrence, Who did you get your car through? You stated in another post that one of your doors was bent on the wharf...what happend there???
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I'm in Adelaide but I'm getting it complianced through a company in Qld. $3850 plus tyres. All up prolly about $4500.
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It's very interesting getting every ones opinion. A mate is selling his HKS bov off his RX7, may look into it. Workshop manual is coming on monday...no substitute for my car that is still sitting in Japan