terry.m

Yer...I couldn't believe it Abo Bob...I was so P'd. That Nulon rubbish should be banned from being sold.

Hmm...I disagree. If she's pulling like a beast in all other gears I would not suspect the clutch. Test the clutch for slippage by: - Be stationary in you car (ie. not moving) - put the car in 5th gear and put the hand break on - try to take off If the engine stalls the clutch is fine...if the revs pick up and continue to do so, the clutch needs replacing. I had a similar problem in my GTS-T but it happend during take off. I did a gearbox oil change and added Shell Synthetic oil with a Nulon gear box additive. Since that, when I tried to engage a quick start, the engine would rev off its nut but I wasn't going anywhere...WTF. As it turned out, it was my synchro's that were slipping. I immediately changed the oil to Castrol VMX80 (NO ADDITIVE) and after aboout 10mins of driving everything was fine. I have now changed the oil again to completely remove all the crap that I added originally. In summary, it may be a cheaper option to spend $35 and change the oil before resorting to a new clutch...it cant hurt.

HAHAHAHAHHAHA!

If you want to spend $25 a litre...go Redline If you are strapped for cash, go Fuchs, about $35 for 4 litres (GX 80 I think...have to look in the shed) I also use Castrol Fully Synthetic diff oil...expensive but worth every penny...2 even black lines all the way What ever you do, stay well away from Nulon oil additives, better yet, stay away from additives period.

Thank you all for your input. My car still has the original suspension on it. After 9 years I would expect that the springs would have sagged a bit anyway, so even if I put 30mm lowered springs in, the ride height probably wont change much initially. I will probably give the camber kit a miss for now.

Hi all, I found a thread similar to this but I just wanted another/more updated opinion. I got a quote for KYB shocks and King Springs today. I want to lower my 33 1.5 inches and was told that I would need a camber kit. Has anyone out there lowered there 33 this amount without a camber kit? If so, were there any negative side-effects? Was there any negaive effect on HICAS? I really can't afford a camber kit at this stage but I still want to lower it. Please help! Thanks, Terry.

Yes...I do

Yeah. Take the wheel and boss kit off again and you'll either see a catch/stub on the boss kit that activates the indicator switch, or you'll see grooves in the kit that the indicator switch locates in. Either way, make sure that they line up.

When you fit the boss kit, did you make sure that the indicator return switches were located inside the correct grooves?

...Sorry...don't know what happend there..it posted my reply before I finished,, Continue... If you follow the piping from the master cylinder: - there is a valve just after the bend heading towards the back of the car on a junction block - there is a valve on the junction block just before the 'u' bolt where the piping changes direction heading towards the slave cylinder - then you have one on the slave cylinder If you are simply bleeding the system, just concentrate on the slave cylinder, get all the air out there

It's hard to explain without pictures. Actually, if you want to include the master cylinder, there are actually 4 bleever valves on the R33. There are 3 bleeder valves that are only accessible undernieth the car. If you follow the piping from the master cylinder: It depends on what you are doing. I drained the whole hydraulic system meaning that when I filled the system up again, I had to use the three bleeder valves

Hmmm, not sure what you mean by a 'Clutch Pivot Ball'. Are you talking about the slave cylinder??? Are you sure that the system has been bled properly? The pedal dropping to the floor and not returning usually = too much air in the system. Slave and master cylinders can be resealed and resleeved, there may be lots of crap between the seals and the bore. Otherwise, dunno dude!

About the only thing that you can adjust is the height of the clutch pedal. I doubt that this will have much impact on the actual grab point. Are you concerned about the grab point? If so, try bleeding the system, there may be air in there. Remember, there are 3 bleeding points on the R33.

Hey all, It's a beautiful cool night, good turbo weather...Boooshka! Just thought I'd share that with you...that is all! :wassup:

Sorry GenesisR32, I disagree. Nulon G70 is the biggest load of crap I have ever put in my gearbox. The shit is TOO slippery. My synchros started behaving in ways that resembled a slipping clutch. I too had Shell Synthetic 75w90, which I feel comes along side the Nulon additive as being the crapiest gearbox oil on the market. As soon as I changed the oil to Shell, the shift from 1st to 2nd was hell worse. I then added the Nulon additive, the shift was still crappy and I started having synchro problems. I drained the crap (Which now looked like cows milk thanks to the Nulon additive) and replaced it with VMX80, bled the clutch...Perfecto! (well nearly) The 1st to 2nd change is significantly smoother, even in the cold. Oh and so far, no more synchro problems...touch wood! The stupid thing is that the money that I have spent so far in this little episode, I could have used RedLine Shockproof for the same money...oh well...you live and learn.

Hey all, Anyone know what clutch slave cylinder fits an R33? For example, does the R31 slave fit??? Do any other Nissan models (Patrol, Sylvia) fit? I've heard that the Dato 200B slave fits...is this so? Thanks in advance

You should have told him that he is lucky to have a job as most braindead F***Wits don't have one and are on a disability pensions. If it wasn't for people like us buying these cars, morons like him would be queing at Centrelink.

"you dont need to pay for your 3rd checkup"...Gee, that's nice of them Don't be ashamed dude, I was about to burst into tears too when my 33 got rejected the first time. I waited 3 months for my car only to get rejected beacuse of a spare tyre and battery. Do they realise how much emotional power they have?

Thanks guys, I have f***ed up anyway with my master cylinder. Originally I had put in Shell synthetic gearbox oil and a Nulon additive. The 'slipping' had only been since I put the Nulon additive in. I heard that there is a possibility that the synchros may be slipping because the shit is just too damn slippery. So, I changed the oil with Castrol VMX80 (Sorry Redline lovers...I dont have $110 spare at the moment). I also decided to bleed the clutch and all hell broke loose. The clutch pedal went straight to the floor. I did a search and someone else had the same problem, said that the piston has a tendancy to travel too far and contaminate with shit when bleeding. So, I took both the master and slave cylinders apart and managed to F**ck up the bore and piston of the master. $140 later the bore is now sleeved and the piston fixed. I put it all back together and am still unable to maintain pressure in the system. I am now suspecting the slave cylinder (It better be cause I'm ready to go spastic!) I've had a guts full...haven't been able to drive the car for a week....grrr!

Thanks guys, I have f***ed up anyway with my master cylinder. Originally I had put in Shell synthetic gearbox oil and a Nulon additive. The 'slipping' had only been since I put the Nulon additive in. I heard that there is a possibility that the synchros may be slipping because the shit is just too damn slippery. So, I changed the oil with Castrol VMX80 (Sorry Redline lovers...I dont have $110 spare at the moment). I also decided to bleed the clutch and all hell broke loose. The clutch pedal went straight to the floor. I did a search and someone else had the same problem, said that the piston has a tendancy to travel too far and contaminate with shit when bleeding. So, I took both the master and slave cylinders apart and managed to F**ck up the bore and piston of the master. $140 later the bore is now sleeved and the piston fixed. I put it all back together and am still unable to maintain pressure in the system. I am now suspecting the slave cylinder (It better be cause I'm ready to go spastic!) I've had a guts full...haven't been able to drive the car for a week....grrr!

just go out and get a lightened flywheel

My advice (being an ex fitter and turner) I wouldn't be taking off any for that purpose unless you are absolutely positive about what you are doing. If you have a look at lightened flywheels, they have been drilled/machined in specific areas that still maintain balance. Don't start drilling holes or machining away willy nilly, otherwise I would predict massive vibrations (eventually damage) coming from the gearbox if the wheel is out of balance.

I once read a thread about this issue that I'm having but for the life of me cannot find it. I apologise if this is another spammed thread... :Oops: Here is my problem: On 2 occasions now, I've reved to around 3000 - 4000 rpm, let the clutch out and...nothing! The revs go up to 6000+rpm but I'm not going anywhere. The stupid thing is that it doesnt happen all the time. I tested and tried taking off in 5th at 1500rpm and the engine began to stall, this tells me that there is nothing wrong with it. There is no crunching in any gears except for the infamous 1st to 2nd cold change. I saw a thread where a guy had a similar problem. He cursed hydraulic clutches and said that he will change the clutch fluid. Nothing else was said after that. Is the fluid a problem? Is this a common problem with hydraulic clutches or is my clutch simply on the way out? Is there any adjustment that can be done to cure it? Pls help before I fork out $400 and spend a hole day changing the clutch

Thanx Steve, It looks like I may have to hold the mods off for a while...I am suspecting a new clutch is needed. On 2 occasions now, I've reved to around 3000 - 4000 rpm, let the clutch out and...nothing! The revs go up to 6000rpm but I'm not going anywhere. The stupid thing is that it doesnt happen all the time. I tried taking off in 5th at 1500rpm and the engine stalled, this tells me that there is nothing wrong with it. There is no crunching in any gears except for the infamous 1st to second cold change.

Imitation is the best form of flattery... As far as the SA cops are concerned...Defect is the best release for Jealousy