djr81
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Posts posted by djr81
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Best guidance is that unless you have an oil or a water leak from the existing lines save yourself the trauma of replacing them with something that wont fit anywhere near as well.
Why are you replacing the lines?
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The qualifying motors only had to last a lap and the race motors a couple hundred miles. At the end of the previous turbo era they had regulated the boost to be no more than 4 bar, then 2.5 bar with fuel limits. They ended up only good for 500kW or so out of 1.5 litres.
The unlimited stuff of 1986 or so had phone numbers for horsepower. If you want to see how Ford (Cosworth) got it wrong there are some good books on the subject. Mostly having Duckworth etc crying about fuel and everything else including compression ratios, turbo sizes etc etc.
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
And lethal fuel mixes.
Dont be silly. Toluene is good for you.
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Some more, minor progress. On the mode door the shaft that locates the worm wheel (the driven gear, not the drive gear) is basically 3.5mm. The next size up drill bit from that was 9/64" but that went straight through the gear. Anyway went to a 5/32" (Which is a bees dick down from 4mm) and drilled the wheel out. Remounted it and the gears now turn. So without knowing how it affects the longevity of the thing I reckon this may be the way to fix your R32 mode door actuator. Hash tag fixie fixie something hashtag.
As for the mix door there looks to be a couple (Atleast) dry joints. The mix door doesn't appear to have the same material for the worm wheel either so guessing it is just solder that is the issue.
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No. They attach tot he plastic clips on the b pillar.
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Just buy some new trim pieces and be done with it. They arent stupidly priced.
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Spent the morning pulling the mix door actuator out and replacing the mode door. Prick of a job. Mix door appear to have a couple dry joints in it but by god they are tiny. Will resolder and hope like hell it works again.
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Have some 17x9 +20’s in silver if that is of any interest.
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So at what point do you get a modern ECU and something like this?
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Change of shirt for when the ventilation system stops working again.
Bag of rags to clean up the oil puked out the RB's breathers.
Glue to stick the B pillar trims back together.
Knife to stab the bubbles in the dashboard with.
Pliers to pick up the broken turbine wheels off the turbochargers (They may still be hot).
More rags to clean the back window because the wiper doesnt work any more.
Can of spartan air.
Your mechanic's (Now best friend) phone number.
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Had a spare (dead) mode door actuator. Pulled it apart (the hard bit there are the 5 clips you have to release) and had a look. Basically one of the plastic gears (the one in red) had near on seized on the shaft. Removed the gear (and the one next to it) Gave the seized one a ream and some lube and will see if it can be bought back from the dead. Hoping the blend door is much the same.
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Well that's that idea pharked then.
Regarding your order 93813;
Unfortunately the Nissan OEM part ordered has now been discontinued and the manufacturers are unable to supply us. Apologies for the inconveniences.Inconveniences. So many inconveniences.
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19 hours ago, Cheapronnie said:
How come?
Well firstly its your car so its obviously entirely up to you what you do with it.
However.
Rose gold or similar is redolent of a car culture that is, pretty much, the antithesis of what a GTR could be said to represent. The GTR was built to compete in touring car racing and Nissan chucked all the engineering they could at it. It wasn’t built to have chrome braid or hectik fitment rims or highly polished air filters or an overstuffed leather interior.
So painting the engine bay (Nissans efforts to that end were pretty shit to be fair) rose gold sort of misses the point. By all means clean it up but your car is a pretty rare colour for a GTR. I’d urge to you respect that and paint it the same as the body.
GTR’s are about engineering and not about bling. Good on you for going what must have been some pretty hard yards to get it. So enjoy what you have. Maybe rose gold for the Tarago??? (Not sure what they call them in the US)
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What sort of rims are you going to put on it.....
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3 hours ago, PLYNX said:
In the first pic . . why are all those guys looking at your Skyline ? . . . . .ah America . . . I forgot Fast & Furious . . . . .
Probably much the same reaction you would get here in Oz if you turned up to a car rally in a 78 Pontiac with a massive chook on the bonnet. Cars are cars and the more diverse you get the more interesting the things are. Guessing an R32 is an uncommon site in the US.
C'mon feel the Illinoise.
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Would expect all offsets that you would think of fitting to a 32 R will clear based on a google search that said a +22 clears.
Search R35 18 inch brake clearance
First result that comes up from GTRlife.
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1 hour ago, Cheapronnie said:
Painting the engine bay rose gold also!
I beg you, do not do this.
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On 8/10/2019 at 6:47 AM, LTSJayce said:
Here’s a thought: the R32 V Spec has four spot front and two spot rear factory Brembo calipers. From memory, Ferrari’s F50 front 6 spot Brembos are the same model type, obviously with more pistons. In the theme of keeping the car ‘looking factory’, but upgrading the braking power...has anyone ever attempted this idea:
Swap the front four piston calipers to the rear and fit 6 piston F50 calipers to the front, with upsized rotes on the front(at least...rear upsize?). Has anyone tried or achieved this? I’m sure there’s bracket fab’ and brake bias issues, maybe ABS issues, master cylinder upgrades required, whatever?
Just throwing it out there...
F50's are 4 pot....
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18 minutes ago, the-31 said:
Thank you Djr81 for a Much more informative response than the previous. There doesn't seem to be as many setups and issues exactly the same as the ones I have, so trying to find specific answers in the threads hasn't been very successful.
Maybe, but he does have a point. Venting blowby from the sump and not the head is a better way of doing it and doesnt require the head to be lifted.
The oil puke problem is a common thing for RB's of almost any capacity. The solution is essentially the same but does vary slightly based on peoples catch can preferences. At the end of the day low blowby plus a way for the blowby to get out of the sump without going through the head is the basis of the solution, as covered in the oil control thread.
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Have a look at how the Nismo can is set up. It drains back through the turbo drain.
To be fair if its for the drags you dont need it to drain quickly. So the answer to your question may be not an nrv but simply a small(er) orifice because who cares if it takes 5 minutes?
But yes a non return valve would work if you could find one you are happy with. You will to be a bit careful how you mount it (ie vertically of horizontally as they sometimes dont like certain positions) which could be an issue.
But honestly if you are getting large amounts of oil from a single pass you should have a think about venting the sump to the can.
So there you go - four answers to one question.....
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On 2/8/2020 at 10:10 AM, r32-25t said:
Been a slow with the updates, finally decided to dig into the boxes I posted a few pages back
here’s the old b/c pillar trim in the car
old and new beside each other, the old ones weren’t the worst I’ve ever seen and new one installed in the car
Just out of interest because I have similar issues with boxes and B pillar trims - how much of a pain in the arse is fitting them and did you break any plasticky clips in doing so?
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
With these things it's possible to dismantle, clean and lube and they work again.
That is sort of plan B, notwithstanding I tend to fk things rather than fix them.
The mode door was $120 and thats brand new so if the mix door could be had for anywhere near the same I would be well happy with that.
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14 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:
Hi
I have removed most of the interior recently and will be replacing both sides including motors. I was able to buy almost all of the parts new but had to source from a few different suppliers.
Assuming that you are wanting to buy the "mix" door motor AKA "blend" door motor which is the one that jams and pumps hot air into the cabin, then I *think* that the part that you are after is 27742-77S60:
I can take pics of the parts that I have purchased recently later in the week. i think that I bought the above from RHDJapan
Cheers
Rob
Rob, If you could confirm that as I cant find a mix door on RHD Japan that would help a heap.
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18 hours ago, Duncan said:
Well, I can confirm they are the part numbers for my 32 gtr's vin as well.
Mix door actuator - 27732-01U00
Mode door actuator - 27731-53E00
My understanding (of the impossible FAST diagram section 270) is that part code 27733N is just the actuator, while 27733NA is the actuator, bracket and wiring.
Also, I have a heater box on the shelf and can take some pics if you need. No part number on either actuator to confirm physically though.
Are you just trying to replace both as preventative, or is there a problem you are trying to fix?
The mode door is stuffed as I usually get stuck with air on the windscreen.
The mix door is the same as no amount of fiddling gets the temperature to change.
So its half preventative (On the assumption its not the head unit) and half a fix. I get sick of it not working properly and just want it fixed.
Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
This is one of the most popular threads on SAU but for my 10 cents worth it is the rings that are the issue not the rest of everything. So before building an engine please think long and hard about the rings and dont just get whatever comes with the pistons....
As an example and for those in Oz I found these folk very good:
http://pacificengineparts.biz/