Chris_RB

a wee update since my last post I was approved the the small loan I'll need on top of some savings to get that beast...wewt!

I am hopefully about to buy a GTS-t which has the Trust IC (pictured above) that loops back around to use the stock holes. However, I would most likely ditch that because I'm looking for something in the neighbourhood of 400ps. I think the trust intercooler would be fine for anything under 300. I think this car is somewhere in the area with the TD-06 and other supporting mods. But I think to maximize efficiency, it is best to get something like the Plazmaman Plenum and a proper, and larger intercooler to support my power goals!

Heck ya!! Unfortunately I'm limited to the 15yr rule of importing japanese cars (canadian, eh), so my options are a little more limited. I have a R32 GTS-t with tasteful mods that make it fun.... But I want to get a 93 GTR next year. Or just spend a crap load on my GTS-t. I think a GTS-t would be cheaper to make faster. I've also thought about upgrading fuel, and sweet turbo, and then RB25... hmmm So many options even just with skylines! I'm leaning towards that because I can put some GTR front fenders on my car to widen it a little, and then RB25 + goodies for a very drivable 350-400 power. Then I just need to find the perfect rims...

<3

I don't think people were being negative bro. Just showing you some other sick burnouts because of your video. I'm also going to Japan next spring. I want to hand pick another car, as well as buy a bunch of junk for my R32

I'd take a six pack! I just got a GTR fm intercooler for my R32 GTSt +piping for $250...going to attempt it this weekend. I think it will be a good size...not too huge to cause a bunch of lag. My only real concern is clearing the fan with the top pipe. There is a very slight indentation which I think will help. Also, I haven't taken off my bumper...but I hope it clears the piping because it's an original veilside...don't really want to chop it up. I do have some that are 3 feet long. The only other concern I have is if I got the proper brackets to mount the IC. I'm hoping I don't have to do much fabricating because I live in an apartment and don't have a ton of tools.Worse case I can use a bunch of industrial strength zapstraps...lol...just kidding...sort of... I don't have an angle grinder also...I do have some good quality whole saws tho so they shouldn't dull when cutting the metal. I also have a dremel...might be slow but that would work too. I plan on doing a picture tutorial because I haven't been able to find one myself for the R32 GTS-t. I lack some of the tools, but it will give people the proper idea then. I'm just waiting for my aluminum tar tape which I will be putting around the top pipe for heat shielding. I figure the bottom and left side pipes will be fine...also may wrap the pipe which goes across the engine just for shits and giggles. More uniform look.

That would have been my "guess" too, that and there's only 4 shown! But I don't know "for sure"...

I have an HKS silent series exhaust and I like it. I don't know what my "gains" are, but it is a very nice system for my car as it is a DD and I don't want to be obnoxious. My car came with it from Japan, but I also got a down pipe and a test pipe when I got it here and that made a difference in sound (little louder and deeper) and turbo also spools a bit quicker.

TPS? That was one of the first things I checked. Set it to .48ish and then it is quite an even climb to 4v fully open. I drove the car quite a lot tonight without a problem. Also, after cleaning the AAC valve the other day, the idle is PINNED at 1K (I set it a bit higher because I like it better than even 900-950). It used to jump all over, and stall out too (which I think resoldering the MAF took care of). I will pull codes again in a few days to see if the knock sensor is still coding. But I got on a highway tonight, and FINALLY I can feel nice pull right up to 180+ without any problems. I can also stop at a light without fearing if I'll make it through the intersection...lol...this is what I bought the skyline for - to enjoy my driving experience and that just started tonight...

I feel like a real dummy because I knew the MAF was a common problem in these cars, but I had tested the other one before, and I was still having problems, but as I mentioned, that was from something else (ignition module) and now after resoldering the MAF I went out for 30 minutes and didn't experience the nasty hesitation. I will pray that fixed it...but I wont be sure until a few days... Should I also replace my knock sensor if the ECU was pulling that code? Maybe it would help my mileage if it is bad... I will drive more later in the day... I was also wondering if a bad MAF would also cause the engine to detonate...bad air/fuel ratio causes it to get too hot, and detonate? Just curious...because I had some earlier. Sounded like crunching tin foil under water...but I didn't hear it now when I would be in full boost, approaching the redline (when I would hear it before)..

Dude, you have no idea how happy I would be if that was it. I tried this earlier, but there were other problems with my ignition system causing a different sort of hesitation...so I probably overlooked this issue. I have a buddy with a spare MAF, I'll give it a go tomorrow after I inspect the condition of the soldering done to my current MAF.

yet another afterthought here... The hesitation seems to be worse when it is a rainy day. So maybe the MAF is indeed fooked. a little moisture in the air, and it starts to hesitate much sooner than if it was a normal sunny day. I can go about 2km's to get groceries just fine with maybe one or two very short hesitations coming home, but when it's rainy outside, I can't even make it to the store without having quite larger and longer hesitations where there is no power...and it's mostly right after I stop at a light so it takes a very fast car, a very LONG time to get up to speed because my car is having a mini orgasm while I'm trying to accelerate. I was thinking before that maybe my fuel regulator wasn't regulating well, but I think I would still have SOME power there, instead of an all out CUT in power. So I'm moving away from that idea... I'm pretty sure I don't hear any knocking. But who knows, maybe my low cylinder could cause a knock sensor to wig out? OR, it's just a faulty knock sensor, and when it wigs out, it cuts power to my car for a brief time? I have a friend with a different MAF that I'm going to borrow. The ECU should be reset now after the diagnostic mode was shut off, so I'm curious to see if that will come back...then it would be the wiring and I can take some volt readings at the ECU to see if my wiring is bad. I will also inspect the plugs. Any thoughts/opinions/ideas would be appreciated. This is my first RB and so far it's been a royal pain in the ass, but I do have a basic understanding of how it all works... Thanks for the help thus far~!

can't seem to edit my posts...sorry for double posting so much, But the #54 I have confirmed is a normal code for this ECU... Anywhoo, I will order a knock sensor, and take a closer look at my MAF and go from there... Are they easy to replace?

Ok, wow, should have known about this a while ago... I'm getting a few errors. 12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter) 34 Knock sensor 54 Auto signal to ECU I do have a custom ECU so I'm not sure if 54 is relevant? But the other 2 would make sense.

Thanks for the link man. Here is some pictures if anyone searches and finds this thread for future reference... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3723574 I'm going to go out and try this when it stops raining... That would be brilliant if it's something came up that I haven't checked yet... I really need this car working because I start a new job in emerg (I'm a nurse) so it is going to be a real buggar to take the bus...a 30 minute trip becomes 1.5 hours...

I'm another Castrol GTX kinda guy. fairly cheap, and works well..

It's kind of funny, but my Skyline actually SAVED me money from my older VW GTI. Instead of paying 2500/yr, I paid 870 now... So the extra cost of premium fuel is well worth it IMO...but that is only because I live in BC and here the skyline is just as much to insure as a corolla because it isn't a common car as it wasn't available here unless it's 15 years old.

I was wondering about the knock sensors myself...Would they cause this type of powerloss/hesitation if faulty? I've inspected the AFM and everything seems to be in order... I went through all my fuses this afternoon, and actually found more than just my tail light fuse was dead. http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/R32-Fuses.htm My shift lock fuse was also burnt - what the heck does this do?

Thanks Allan Coil packs appear in good shape. I've tried another set and same thing. Pump is rewired correctly. All the wiring appeared to be in good shape. Thanks man. My last resort is taking it in to get checked. I wanted to try my own stuff first to try and save some cash. I had it into one shop and all they told me was one cylinder was a bit low on compression, but I do not believe low compression on just 1 cylinder would cause this issue. TPS is good. It's been adjusted to 0.48v and then appears to be fine to fully open right around 4v. I'm in the process of trying to find someone locally here that will check the error codes for me. I will double check for leaks. I didn't see any previously. I've ran cleaners The car was overboosting. A new actuator helped, but it still gets to 1bar (as opposed to 1.2bar) on my apexi boost gauge. But on the stock gauge it doesn't read that high so I've skeptical on that 1 bar...I forgot to mention that. The care is pretty much stock. I just have an apexi power intake, and now a SARD pump. When I drop and gear and lay into it, there typically isn't any problems. It would be more likely to hesitate AFTER I lay my foot into it. If I give'er after a light, and then after I slow down, and then accelerate normal, it has hesitated then moreso. And it just hesitates...its like all power is completely gone. Sometimes it comes back right away if I blip my foot on the gas, but sometimes it will also start convulsing (usually only after it's driven for a longer distance). So I don't really think it is 'missing' because its not like I loose a little bit of power, it's like the car is coasting in gear.

The wiring in the trunk and to the pump appears to be in decent condition. Are there common areas where this would happen? I will double check to be certain though..but from what I saw when replacing my pump, everything was OK. Thanks though! This week I'm replacing the main ground with a 4gauge wire, and then a few other chassis and block grounds with 5-6 8gauge connections. I will also check other grounds to assess their condition as well... Also, a friend of mine shorted out my battery and fried it (hence the new optima battery) when he was helping me jump the car. Fried my main 75amp fuse, and now my tail lights and dash lights are not working (all other interior and exterior lights are fine)...but all the other fuses appear to be ok? grr...that's all I needed with this other stuff... I can figure that out later...I just want to fix this hesitation so I can take my car more than 10 KM's without it starting to jerk in a massive car-orgasmic kind of way...

Hello! I have a 1992 GTS-t that I've imported from Japan, and this issue is starting to drive me nuts. I've tried a lot of different things from this forum, and others that I've found using search, but I still haven't figured it out yet. My car hesitates...it's mostly present once the car is fully warmed up and has been driven a while. It mostly happens when accelerating, or going up a hill, or around a corner. It isn't a slight loss of power, it's like ALL power is GONE for 1-2 seconds. Sometimes it will even start to buck as power cuts in and out during that few seconds. I find it is typically OK when just cruising at a constant speed, but as soon as I come to a light, and accelerate, go around a corner, up a hill etc, it *occasionally* happens. This is what I've done so far: - fuel filter was tough to blow through, so I replaced it (this fixed the stalling issue I had) - Replaced fuel pump with a SARD 265 l/m (tank appears quite clean) - New coil harness - coils appear to be in good shape - new sparks - new ignition module (this fixed a "different" hesitation I was also having) - new Optima battery (will be redoing the ground once my terminals arrive) - cleaned AAV valve (idled like poo and it was quite dirty) and set idle to 950ish. The solenoid still whines a bit though... - tested different MAF, didn't change anything I'm starting to run out of ideas... I'm going to try a different CAS just to see...I will do that in the next few days... I'm also thinking it may possibly be the fuel regulators? Or EGR is messing up? Would a buggy AAC solenoid be capable of causing this hesitation? I'm really not sure anymore. I'm going to check for codes when I can find the time to get it tested. But I'm just wondering if someone has some fresh ideas, or a different perspective to help me out. cheers

I've used 2 on my RB20DET: M's K&N, and Apexi. I prefer the Apexi...I got it for $60 shipped. They have a "cooler" induction noise. As for gains...that's been beat to death - there really aren't any noticeable difference except you SOUND like you're going faster The 3a one looks neat too. Not sure I've ever seen one over here though.

I've also been having major overboosting problems on fairly stock set up. I just disconnected the actuator arm and took if for a quick drive - drive like a SLUG, but my car wasn't hesitating like it was, and also having max boost to about 0.4 bar compared to 1.2 bar! I have a new actuator I'm going to install and then I will return with the results. I'm hoping this fixes my hesitation and overboosting problems because I REALLY want to drive my damn car! Also to note - do NOT grind off the c-clamp holding the actuator arm onto the wastegate. Carefully remove with pliers and save that because you'll need to refasten it... I think I read some post that was going to grind it off...that's bad...