Craved

you will want to work out if you want it smooth or not, currently they are not, if you want it smooth then a primer will be required to fill the gaps sand that back and apply paint (using a primer/filler in a can wil ensure it is primed sufficiently) cam gear cover is metal thats painted, 400 wet dry and paint straight over it primer and paint stick to plastic without issue, may not be completely scratch resistant without a primer though

reduced noise air will enter the box from behind the headlight - more if you have an after market intercooler that opens up the hole under the filter from the std piping

thanks for the invite wont be in sydney this weekend or i would have come.. enjoy the cruise .. might suggest coming back through Bell to windsor if you want a winding drive home

apparantly using dry ice to freeze the sound deadener then hitting it with a hammer is an easy way to remove it, i'll be testing it out soonish on my torana. was suggested in Majanal's drift car build up thread in the drift section

Try this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=16255 and this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=11334

do you have a weighbridge nearby? public weigh bridges shouldnt cost too much, and will give you a definate answer rather than a "should be under" answer

i'll see if my mechanic is in, he used the std pulley locations on Majanal's engine, will try to see which one he used

i grub screwed the head, but have left the oil feed open on the block, any chances this will lend it an oil leak as there is still an opening in the gasket (rb25 head gasket) ????

daves front bar in the first pic?

supra tail light.. in the outside red circle?

not from the oil cooler, behind it is a threaded hole to the pressure side, which the rb30e ran their oil pressure sender into

damn man, that thread is so emo

oh noes, thats so ghey :)

had my mechanic drill and tap the head, then put a grub screw inplace of the original vct feed, then drilled and tapped into the front of the gallery behind the inlet cam gear and put a fitting in there for me, all i need now is some braided line to go from the oil hole behind the oil filter to supply it with oil, as the rb25 oil cooler assembly houses the std oil pressure sender, where as the rb30 used the hole behind it. dont have pics here though

they snap very easily, i would suggest a replacement of all the studs while the manifold is off.. save it happening later

rear wiper switch perhaps .. dont know 34 interiors much

umm try a rattle gun first .. mates r32 did that with a normal socket, but rattle gun took it off no worries. try that before welding

but the bearings are the point on tension, so it wouldnt flop there, it would move between the tensioner and the cam gear. Pretty sure Majanal's rb30 is using the std locations for the bearings.

what power are you getting now to max out 600cc injectors, especially at 17psi are you sure its not a fuel pump issue causing the duty cycle to be higher do to reduced flow from the pump?

no worries have a look around on the web, there are definately engine manuals for the r33 out there

turbo intake pipes, intercooler pipes, exhaust front pipes as minimmum extras

you will need to remove the inlet cam gear, yes there is a spring behind it. i made some pics for you

did you get the 3x 10mm head bolts off? front one is behind the inlet cam gear

wil, out of the filter then yes fuel should be coming out, have you tried the line that comes into the filter? as it could the be the filter that is the issue. 2nd, try to test the power connection on the 2 wire plug on the fuel tank cap... see if its getting power, and getting atleast 12v if no power, could be fuse, relay or ecu. try direct power from a spare battery to the fuel pump, see if fuel comes out the filter to help check the above. gimme a call if you get stuck.

look here for wiring diagrams, should be able to work it out from there http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/ once again Paulr33's site comes in handy