Craved

go to your local tools shop and pick a fuel line spreader ~$20 it is a reverse plier that spreads instead of clamps, as is designed to grip the steel line and push on the end of the fuel hose. makes it alot easier to do this, and its a tool you will need later on if you start changing stuff alot like this http://otctools.com/products/detail.php?id=1484

yeah looks correct, there looks to be a gasket under that adapter.. it has a hole in the middle right? just to state the obvious if that has a twist top for adjustment, loosen it off as it might be too tight for the boost your running.

2535 would be low mount using std lines. just remember what it says - CAUTION HOT

hahah yeah i remember that one

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...gold&st=200 theres your thread happy reading

umm try the Wanted to Buy section ....

it would be difficult to do it in a kit form reasons: have to drill and tap the rear of the head (which you wouldnt do with an assembled engine - swarf etc) everyones setups are different need the return brazed or welded to the sump if your going to do it, do it when your building the engine, speedflow fittings and oil line are easy to get to be able to make your own up.

bleed tap on the front of the plenum above your fuel pressure regulator, loosen it off it once its hot since this should be the highest point of the cooling system, once bubbles stop close and it will be bled. as for turbo, if its high mount it may be acting as the highest point in the system, if there is air in that area once you switch off the car, then this will allow the water to boil in that area.

there was a huge thread about this about 2 years ago. i have a bottle at home, just need some time on teh dyno to see if it changes anything HINT : do not use it in a gearbox (it can be used) but it reduces the syncro's ability to slow the gearset down for a smooth engagement

they need a new one that says "im with the smart guy"

they work by earthing a circuit within the wheel, something on teh wheel is touching the wire to make it go off what wheel is it, have you remove the horn centre if its aftermarket, and check that the wire isnt worn and is connected correctly

you dont really need the PCV get it blocked up, then run your other lines to the Catch can, but have the catch can return to the inlet piping. its legal then and will still function

have a mechanic gas test the radiator, i think it checks for CO-2, but detects exhaust gas in the cooling system. i had this issue before, and had the test done, it should slightly positive for the gas, so a few months later i changed the head gasket and was all sweet. even though it wasnt over heating.

doesnt matter which transmission you use block teh hole, well that depends on where you do it, if you block it at the end of the steel pipe, then pop down to clark rubber and use a rubber chair leg stopper that fits, then just hose clamp it on.

doesnt matter where the pipe is blocked off, as long as it is air tight.... try lossening any adjustment on the BOV , do you know that it worked before you got it, it might be faulty

my sensor is not connected, so unless you set it to 18 degrees it pumps hot air

have you got pictures of it installed? you replaced the std one with the aftermarket one and hooked up the air line from the plenum to the BOV? was it a plumb back type or atmo? if atmo make sure you block the std BOV's return pipe

umm your car already has one std

since the injectors are put into the plenum you should get new injectors seals for it if the kit doesnt come with it. it should retain the Side feed injectors. make sure you have a new gasket if its not in the head. sealant/liquid gasket required for the AAC extra vacuum hose for everything, since it relocates them to underneath the plenum i havent done it myself so there may be more, this is just what comes to mind when thining about it

Best to put the front oil drain back into the sump to remove any chance of a back caused by the frothy oil from the turbo return, you can T it but you want the oil back down to the sump as fast as possible. the green sensors are the knock sensors - i have attached a pic that i got from this thread that shows their locations

They will improve it for sure

thats not too bad, im running a 1.12 HKS rear housing on their GT3040 1.2bar at 5K with poncams soon to decide on swapping it with my 0.86 housing or build the 3L and leave it

very true

cant be tooo hard to post in there either, as most people who are fabricating things and hit a wall and need help, dont always have a lot of time to wait for these approvals to go through. unless there is another sub section for stickies and one for everyday questions, and people apply for it to be put into a sticky, or its up to the Mod of the section to choose if it goes in there or not. reasoning for this is that too many stickies gets messy too

Tutorials / DIY / FAQ FYI ONLY!!! DO NOT POST QUESTIONS IN HERE. ^^^ was the main reasoning for suggesting a new forum section based on Fabrication types and methods .. seperating it from the Engine/fix it DIY type things are in that area.. mainly a Build something DIY over a fix something DIY if it can be sub forumed then awesome DIY - fix it DIY - Build it type thing