Craved

Sounds pretty thorough Paul - hope you found the pics too - im sure i have attached them before in here

let me finish this one off and then i'll let you know would be different if using another dash fitting for legal plumb back versus getting a filter for it

well that would depend on what the motor came out off if the 25det was in a 240z then thats where it needs to be - as they are rear sumped when the conversion is done. funny old thread to resurrect

yeah fair enough - first posts one was without filler going to make a couple more and get them welded up without filler the one above i'll get the fittings and filler welded on - this one would be fine for powdercoat as that neatens up the welds heaps.

my suggestion - if you are going to paint it - is to weld it up using a soldering iron, just melt along the crack then force the 2 sides together, then prep for paint

drilling into an oil gallery is always going to introduce shavings, i would not do it with the head on the block for this reason. TIP in the main area of the Forced Induction section - there is the Paper clip icon next to this threads link - click that icon and you will get a small page with EVERY pic that has been attached (not external links using the IMG tags though) to this thread - then go from there.

http://www.xforce.com.au/universal_items/list_mufflers/

so your saying those welds arent good enough ? would you want a filter on it? or another dash fitting for plumb back?

haha no jokes http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products...9744&cat=37 better option would be to plastic weld it up, the shave it back and prime for paint.

This is 2.5mm alloy using 1.6mm filler rods i am not sure on the grade of filler at this point or the alloy grade for the sheets- i just get off cuts and run some test welds to work out the best Amps for that alloy im using. its just a shame the TIG im using does have a foot controller.

i guess that depends on what finish you want on it

kitty hair should work for you after watching countless american modification shows, i realise that those awesome custom consoles and dashes are mostly kitty hair filler lol

C-red in WA used to sell the original M-sports kits there are people out there with this kit though

my 044 came with a banjo style anti-drain back - but i replaced it with a dash style screw on from motorsports connection are the 040's built in ?

lol - why you no call me for? ahha you want one too ?

still some to finish off needs the following : cut out to clear the fuse box mount billet alloy filler cap holes for the washer pumps -10 fittings for the breather hoses drain plug for catch can side finish fillet welding the 2 bits together (amps needed keep throwing the breaker lol) figure out what kind of outlet is required - either for filter or plumb back

Progress at last

i see the cover for the engine bay fuse box - what about the base section ? dont need the wiring, just the part that mounts to the chassis

the standard round trailer lights from big w fit fine , just have to fabricate a backing plate to mount behind the bar so the bolts in the light unit squeeze the bar and hold themselves in palce.

High if they dont do it properly low if they do do it properly (heat gun and slowly)

+1 thanks for explaining too shane

so these adapters go over the top of the standard girdle?

look like the grain of wheat leds that you get from jaycar - pretty sure the same type as used in the air con control etc

V.G. Auto Paints & Tools Touch Up Paints, Colour Matching, Tools & Equipment, Polishes & More 11 Amax Ave Girraween NSW 2145 ph: (02) 9636 5411 not too far from you for paint supplies- candies from that site "One 25 gram bag treats from 1 to 4 quarts of clear. " 1 quart is just under 1L or 1/4 of 3.8L so you would need to talk with your painter as to how deep the candy you want to run - what base coat colour you want to use and his prefered coats and the amount of paint to get.

sounds like faulty or not plugged in AFM