Craved

if you can provide some info on the steps taken and hints and tricks you figured out, could you you add them in the fabrication section - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=177231 - there is a thread i started regarding alloy polishing

car polish is an abbrasive so yes it can be used to remove stains .. depending on how bad they are obviously there are kits out there specifically designed to polish window glass - only seen them in the USA though

Just be aware that the underside of the r33 bonnets dont have a fancy tear drop design to cut around like the S2K .. so you'll have to get imaginative in regards to cut outs that look neat as above.

r34's have filters in the air con system

car polish

AU$330 ?

they are an awesome setup, havent seen them used much in sedans though. worth it for sure

100% you have 12 nuts off the manifold? wouldnt use the pry bar too much (from the head anyway) since its aluminium.

is that one of the foam bomb type extinguishers used in open wheelers? and looks externally activated (or atleast one trigger near the dash)

hmmm i think i just need to spend alot more time that i thought it would take to polish these up ... will spend some more time on it all and see how the outcome turns out.

Happy Birthday Mooner

Hey All, So i just got myself a new abbott and ashby 8" bench grinder, bought along with that a tapered spindle, a stitched buffing pad and a loose buffing pad, some Brown cutting compound for the stitched and some White SS compound for the loose buff. Fitted it all up and gave it a go for a small 5 minutes or so for each different Buff and compound (one section about 200mm square), stopping to wipe it all clean with Turps before starting on a different compound. Found the actual side/edge welds came up quickly to a mirror finish but the flats sides of the washer bottle i was doing seems not to be changing much if at all with the use of the compounds and wheels. my basic Questions are : 1. With brushed alloy material should i be using a sisal buff with a grey compound first to remove the oxidisation from welding then moving down the compound towards to mirror polishing loose buff? 2. Is the grey too harsh and i should spend more time on the brown compound before going to the white? 3. Whats an easy way to tell if more compound is required on the buffing pad? 4. could starting with a 400 or 600 sand paper assist in the polishing process? EDIT : now reading that you can use 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000 grit wet dry prior to final polishing 2nd edit : now reading that using higher than 400 grit is a bad idea - sigh Any answers and hint would be good. Cheers

get high tensile steel full threaded bolts from your local bolt shop, thefull thread allows you to put a nut at the head of the bolt, then put the bolt through the stand and into the engine, then tighten up as required via the nut on the head end - use washers between the nut and the stand.

check the map sensor for the guage is plugged in and the hose is intact.. 3mm hose on back of plenum

yeah i guess i could finished of my jig for the mounts, but spent the weekend away making farm fences and ordered my new 8" bench grinder and polishing wheels today... so should be able to polish the unit up during this week, ready for the mounts and filler on the weekend

washer bottle has been removed from my car for years, doesnt really make it look any better, thats why im making an alloy replacement item - see fabrication section .. there are plenty of car out there, depends on what you wanna do with it, personally when it comes to engine bays im a little inclined towards the "less is more" type effect ..

try a motorcycle repair place, since most fairings are plastic they will do plastic welding

Harts Paint Supplies 1/ 68 Johnston St Southport QLD 4215 ph: (07) 5591 4833 Accelerate Enhancements ph: 1300 790 913 Beenleigh Paint Centre Shop 5 & 6 87 Boundary St Beenleigh QLD 4207 ph: (07) 3807 2088 Colourmobile Australia PO Box 315 Helensvale QLD 4212 ph: 1800 149 339 Oz Trade Supplies ph: 1300 557 371 Oz Trade Supplies 2/ 30 Manufacturer Drv Molendinar QLD 4214 ph: (07) 5594 0211 Paradise Paint Depot 55 Paradise Ave Miami QLD 4220 ph: (07) 5575 1700 Prestige Paint & Equipment 4/19 Expo Crt Ashmore QLD 4214 ph: (07) 5591 2271 The Paint Depot 4 Brightlands Crt Mermaid Beach QLD 4218 ph: (07) 5554 6666 Wagners Panel & Paint Supplies 1/ 21 Ereton Drv Labrador QLD 4215 ph: (07) 5563 7766 tried any of those??????

wouldnt suprise me if thats your plenum in your avatar

are they air boxes or partitions?? There are a few already made partitions available from places like UAS..

bolt is on the plenum right at the front

both the TOP and the BOTTOM hose is on the left hand side of the motor... either one will require topping up of the radiator and a bleed of the system using the bleed bolt.

if you ahve a look, it is very straight forward where the bolts are .. as you can see the mounting points when you open the bonnet, just go down directly from the top ones to find the bottom ones.

from memory i dont think you need to remove the bar c, just the 4 bolts behind each light .. prob need to remove the washer bottle and air box though

they are saying they need to remove the timing belt to change the water pump