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Everything posted by Tommy G
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The gears in my Stagea's drivers-side retractable rear-vision mirror seem to be stripped. The mirror becomes wobbly at speed, and although the mirror folds to the 'out' position, it is unable to fold back in again. Is this hard to fix? I had a go at pulling the mirror off and having a look, but it seems pretty well stuck on. Is it a case of ordering the new cogs or electric motor assembly, or?
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Hey Sabbai, I would estimate I trimmed about 60-70mm from the inner vents. Basically, (on a 'Dayz' bar anyway) you need to make the inner two vents flush with the outer vents. I'm not sure why the inner vents extend further into the engine bay than the outers in the first place, but they've gotta go. You could trim a bit more off to allow a bit more room, but I didn't want to make those vertical 'struts' either side of the numberplate any thinner than required. PS Very nice install Tangles! That looks seriously tough.
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Here are some pics of my final FMIC installation. I got the car back from Springy Motors earlier this week and am absolutely stoked with the outcome (see dyno thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4719149 ) I removed the front bar, as I wanted to replace the black mesh inserts to 'hide' the cooler a bit. You can see what the 'Cooling Pro' Stealth FMIC looks like behind the bar here. For $150 I had George at Springy Motors fabricate some brackets to allow the bottom cooler mounts to attach to the frame (the brackets provided in the kit don't attach to anything) I hand-sanded the angle-grinder trimming behind the bar, and did a dry fit with the mesh held in with masking tape. I had to trim the cooler piping clamp bolts with a grinder to make some room, and when I was happy with the dry-fit, used some 'Sikaflex' glue purchased at Autobarn to fix the mesh in place. I put a few bricks on it overnight to make a good bond. I then trimmed away excess glue, re-attached the front bar, and did up all the bolts holding all the undercarriage plastics in place. All in all pretty happy with how the whole thing turned out. It looks pretty tidy, and turned out to be quite 'stealthy' after all. My advice for anyone considering a Cooling Pro Stealth on a S2 would be to just budget around $150 to have it professionally fitted - you'll still be a whole lot in front of buying a Greddy kit!
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Although it is a pretty amazing increase, the 125kW figure would have been a bit higher before I put the FMIC in (I had a cooler pressure leak and a split hose at the bleed-valve). With the stock setup, the power didn't dip off that noticeably in that range. I might have gotten around 140kW originally, but still, an increase of even 40kW is just awesome! The car feels great now - you can really notice the g-force kick after about 4,000rpm now, and you can feel the four wheels just getting the power down in lower gears without breaking traction. Stoked with the outcome. Highly recommend the 'bang-for-your-buck' value of the Nistune. There's no gizmos or adjustment in-cab, but I didn't want all that anyway.The results speak for themselves, and the car is now setup specifically for my mods.
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Very, very impressed with 'Springy Motors' at Springvale. Speak to George - he's a legend. Got my car back yesterday and it goes like a new machine! See the results of my setup below: 2000 Stagea RS-Four S 'Nistune' computer + tune 3" turbo-back (JJR front pipe, Catco hi-flow Cat, and HKS Hi-Power Silent cat-back & Calsonic Hi-Flow Air Filter) Cooling Pro 'Stealth' FMIC (Finally got this fitted correctly at Springy too!) Boost tweaked to max. spike of 14psi. I didn't think was too bad a number for 4-wheels! I'd be happy to PM you with more info, Atomaly.
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I believe the Cooling Pro kits are in fact, a direct copy of the GReddy kits. It seems, like you say, that these kits may have been designed for the Series 1 (non-NEO engined Stageas) with no attention paid to the extra width of the AC fan on the S2! Cooling Pro, if you're out there - please include different mounting for the Series 2 Stageas. Maybe the R34GTT kit would be a better suit for potential series 2 purchasers??? StageaTypeS - do you also have the two bottom mounting tabs 'floating' at the moment? I am getting my mechanic to fabricate some brackets for a sturdier mounting. I am going to trim/level the bar some more this weekend and reinstall the black mesh inserts to make it more stealthy. Will post pics when completed.
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I recieved and installed my Cooling Pro "Stealth" FMIC last weekend. This particular kit required much more modification than just a trim. Below I have stated my experiences with this product.... I was required to use an angle grinder with a parting-off wheel to delicately cut away steel framework, and also chunks of plastic from the rear of the vents on the bar to allow adequate clearance to refit the front bar. I had to use extreme care when cutting so I wouldn't slip and destroy the bar, not to mention how hard it was to make it all level and not look out of proportion. None of the supplied bolts or spacers seemed to fit anywhere in particular, although we were lucky enough to have some bolts and scrap metal on-hand to hold the cooler into place. This particular kit quite obviously did not take into account the factory cooling fan at the front of the radiator; at the moment the cooler is hard up against that fan (see photos). However if it is moved further forward or downwards, or even tilted forward it does not allow for clearance for the pipes to reach their location. I have no doubt that these kits have fit many other car models with ease, but it seems to be that for the Series 2 Nissan Stagea there are quite obviously flaws in their design. The fact of the matter is that I bought this kit because I honestly did not want to modify the aesthetics of the car (thus why I bought the more expensive 'Stealth' kit). To top it off no instructions were sent for the install. I understand that some modification is required on any car customisation job, but this was honestly one pain after another. I have since had some unfortunate dealings with Just-Jap and Cooling Pro since, who admit that "these intercoolers should be fitted by licensed mechanic if you need to take this to a mechanic now you should have never attempted to fit this kit yourself . We have never had one problem fitting these kits before . It does not matter what kit we send you they all need to trim front bumpers and steel." There you have it, straight from the horses mouth. This is what you don't read on the website. If you are going to order one of these kits, keep the above in mind. I have advised Just-Jap/Cooling Pro to put clearer warnings on products in future and remove the "direct fit" blurb from their website. I've also suggested they include instructions with their kits in future. All in all we managed to install the cooler, however I am not happy with the outcome. I have it booked in with a quality mechanic today to repair what appears to be a leaking cooler pipe. I am dissapointed with this product.
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No problem 187, I will post some pics & info once installed. I ended up purchasing the 'Stealth' model; I should hopefully recieve it before this weekend.
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Thanks for the response Wolverine. I was just speaking with Dan? from Just Jap - the Stealth 'coolers require minor cutting of the REAR of the bar, so nothing visible from the outside. All connectors, clamps etc are included too and it should just connect on to the factory plumbing. Why the Stealths are more expensive, even though they are smaller than the Type 1 or 2 coolers I have no idea? I might order one later this week and let you know how it turns out.
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Nice job man! From the pics I'm guessing you bought the Cooling Pro Type 1 or Type 2 Kit? Was there a noticable power increase after fitment? I'm keen to get the 'Stealth' Series to fit to my Series 2 with 'Dayz' front bar. I know other people have asked, but no-one has yet responded....Has anyone had any experience fitting a 'Stealth'? Are they really a direct fit to the factory piping with no cutting or fabrication as stated in the ad? (I'm not the most handy bloke in the world unfortunately ). I've noticed that the Stealth is a bit smaller than the Type 1 or 2 kits. Would this difference in dimensions reduce performance substantially? I'm guessing a tune is required after fitment also. I have a factory ECU; does this have to be adjusted or anything to suit the new modifications? Many thanks
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Thanks for the info, Mad. Sounds like an ECU and a FMIC are the go. I have seen the following FMIC's on SAU; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...er-t209304.html Has anybody fitted one of these to an S2 Stagea with 'Dayz' front bar, and if so, how complicated was the installation? Cheers, T
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I'm quite interested in spec'ing up my Series 2, RS Four Type S Stagea. At present it is stock standard, apart from a 3" HKS Hi Power Silent turbo-back and a high flow air filter/panel. 1. The car has been running quite rich; I noticed when I did the exhaust that the O2 sensor was quite charred - should this be replaced? 2. I'm thinking that an intercooler and/or computer setup might assist with the power/economy. I don't want to be cutting plastic etc to fit a potential FMIC though - I want to keep the car looking stock. Are there any front mount intercooler kits on the market that fit in behind the factory Dayz front bar without modification? 3. I have limited budget; would it be worthwhile doing a computer upgrade at the same time? Are there any issues with buying second hand gear? What are some recommended setups for the above? Thanks in advance, TG
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Hmmm...I've gotta say, Import Monster is a pretty shocking site to navigate around. I would be really reluctant to bid on anything there without being able to read Japanese, or at least know how to understand those ridiuculous translations. Having said that, if anyone finds a new set of factory Stagea front mats on there, send me the link!!!
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Is there anybody at all out there who has managed to find a set of replacement front/rear seat covers and/or floor mats for the Stagea/Skyline??? I have looked online, checked with Nissan Australia, been around to a few import dealers etc, but to no avail. I have been offered 2nd hand floor mats for $200 that don't look any better than the ones that I've already got! (quite ratty). The seat covers I have are front seats only, and are generic fitting ones that look terrible and don't fit properly. Someone on SAU has done a fabricated Stagea floor mat group buy in the past. Not sure what the chances are of that starting up again?
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Thats no good about your dents. I would talk to your local council; often, fallen limbs of street trees etc can be their responsibility. Details of PDR-Tek: PDR-TEK (Paintless Dent Removal) Website - http://www.pdrtek.com.au/ Contact Person- John Contact Details - Phone: 0419 600 300 E-mail: [email protected] On presentation of a current SAU Vic membership card, you will receive a 10% discount. He is based in S.E Suburbs of Melb (Cheltenham I think?), but is a mobile service - I'm pretty sure he'd get out to Franky. Good luck with the repairs.
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Really pleased with the result! John did an awesome job with the paintless dent removal - it's really quite hard to spot where it was. Highly recommended.
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I got in touch my my insurer (Just Car) today. Without knowing who did the damage, I'm up for $500 excess, which is completely not worth it. I gave John from PDR Dent-Tek a call; he quoted around $200 to get both the dings out. I'll let you know after he has a go at it what sort of result we get!
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Happened to mine on the top level of the Doncaster 'Shoppingtown' Westfield. I always try and park next to a pylon or against a wall where possible - give you a 50% less chance of having someone open their door into you! Has anyone used/seen PDR - Dentek? http :geek:/www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pd...r-t170520.html I'm thinking because the chipping is only quite small, they could touch this up and use the paintless dent removal tools to fix the bodywork? Apparently SAU Vic members get 10% off the bill too. Wonder how much this is? Has to be way cheaper than panel beating/respray yeah?
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Sorry to hear about your wagon, man. Sounds like you might have fared a bit worse than mine. Are you going to get the damage repaired or simply leave it as is? Doesn't it just grind you when you try and take pride in something and keep it looking great only to have some nong come along, ding it up and then not even take responsibility....I can feel that vein in the side of my neck pulsating as I type