wrxhoon

put your rb25 bolt in the cranks thread it it bolts on its an rb25 if it fits in loose its 26 , rb26 bolt is a bit thicker .

depending on what they do but its not expensive . are you taking the car to them or just the engine ? when you say forgies do mean just pistons ? you can get forged pistons from $1000 ( including rings ) full gasket set is around $330 , bearings about $150 for main and big ends , then you have to allow say 150 to bore the block and about the same to do the crank and around 3-400 to service the cil head then there is a couple of seals that dont come with the gasket set timing belt from nissan 100 , 50 aftermarket , oil filter $10 , if you change the oil pump and water pump tensioner and idlers add that as well . if they do all that and r+r engine out of car $4 k is very cheap , if you take the engine to them and they only do half that then its not cheap .

due to time waster i still have the b/bar and lip for sale

idont know how you say its the first time you heard of it there is plenty said in this forum about the ceramic turbine wheels braking and going in the engine just do a search and you will see. anyone boosting these thinks they are running the risk , if it was just the turbo you wouldnt care , just replace it but it damages the engine as well . you can still rebuild everything but it efects all internals ,its like puting sand in your sump , only worse .

it does cause you have both inlet and exhaust valves open at the same time and it creates a vacium so it sucks it in . you guys dont believe just ask someone that works on them . ask sydney kid , i'm sure he has seen plenty turbos go and stuff up a good engine

i'll be very surpriced if it had the original ceramic wheels and none went through the engine . i cant understand how it smashed the turbo and it doesnt blow any smoke going from the turbo seals in to the exhaust , is he looking for it ? the turbo may have been rebuilt in the past and when they rebuild them they dont use ceramic wheels

its about 6mm , you can probably use the connectors that you hve on the cable now its what they call a gell cell , just like odysey .

thats correct craved , they are fully sealed , just like odysey no breather hose , you can mount them on their side if you wish no need to be mounted upright .

totaly incorrect statement jimx , when the turbos let go in the gtrs they smash in the housing and tiny pieces like sand get sucked in the engine , score the cil bores , may even bend a valve or 2 . if you dont think that happens just ask anyone that has had one let go, me included . i took my gtr a while ago to get a pink the guy took it out for a brake test , when he returned it was blowing smoke , the rear turbine wheel let go was sucked back in it stuffed all the bores , pistons , oil pump , bearings , crank and bent 2 valves . so dont make statements that you are not sure about. i'm not for a minute saying that thats what happened to the r32 that he is buying but i would have it checked , i would even drain the oil and put trought a stainer to make sure there is no pieces in there and if i found any i would look elsewhere or budget for a rebuild .

take the steering covers off and then you will see , i think 2 little bolts that hold it in place and a couple of plugs and you take the stalk out , very easy once you have the covers off .

The compressor is rubbing on the housing from bearings being stuffed. My car had R33 n1 turbos already fitted, and since they are a ball bearing type I read somewhere that they don't like dirty oil and I think thats what has stuffed em. Now I gotta rip em out and fix em. I'm thinking of getting them rebuilt and highflowed. r33 n1 turbos are not ball bearing , i have them in my r33 very good turbos dont hi flow them , take them to garrett to have them rebuild .

well it is possible but by the time you take subframe off and you may have to remove the box to get to a couple bolts its much easier to remove the engine box assembly and do it on the bench much easier .

i'm sure you didnt have to re-tap the cil head , i think you'll find out that you had to drill the holes out a little so the bolts fit , as they dont screw in to the head , they screw in the block

engine out , the only way to remove the sump , you cant do it on the car.

put the switch on and check to see if you are geting power , if you are not it may be the switch on the steering , they do play up .

just the top bracket you can use the old long bolts , i made my own top from stainless steel .

probably $20-25

thats right illegal and dangerous , the ones that come from nissan are not sealed but they have a breather that goes under the boot , like jetski batteries bt here they intall normal batteries .

yea but you said you have an rb25 det ??? didnt you ? rb 20 det if a different engine ( 15 deg @ 850 is correct for it ) . do you have a 25 or 20 ?

thats the only way to install it

scott , both the rb25 de and det factory specs : 15 deg +or -1 @ 650 rpm , rb26 =20 +or -1 @ 950 rpm . you must have a bonnet sticker of a different car .

if you want to set it on 15 all you have to do is turn the cas a little like 1/2 a mm it will move it a couple of degrees .make sure you tighten the 2 bolts so it doesn't move . personaly i would leave it at 17 if it doesn't ping , its got to be 15 @ 650 rpm ( thats the specs )

there is 3 little bolts ben , 2 are at the rear of the head ( 1 on the inlet side and the other on the exhaust side ) and 1 at the front of the head on the inlet side .

you have to do a compression test + or leakdown but from what you said its not good news . if you can get a rebuild with new oversize pistons you have to bore the block ( forgies are about the same as nissan ) , grind the crank , new undersize bearings and service the cilinder head + remove and reinstall the engine , all for $ 4000 its good . you are looking at about $1800 for parts + machining and strip and put back together .

tdc no 1 is when the crank pulley mark lines up ( 12 o'clock ) and at the same time the 2 cam pullies line up with their marks . if they all line up and the belt tension is right then its all good . did you do the tensioner bolt with a torque rench ? if you dont do it tight enough it will come loose to tight and it will break .