wrxhoon

is it all done now ? you are very lucky you didnt bent any valves ! is it all back together now ? if you havent got the covers back on turn the engine clockwise a few times and check again all your marks when it comes to tdc and finaky check the tension on the timing belt when all done put together and check timing with timing light . next time you take the cas out matk its position with paint or something and put together in the same spot so it starts easy and then check with timing light .

scott , if you didnt have the engine on tdc on the compression stroke when you fitted the new timing belt , how did you do it then ? did you just put it anywhere ? you must have been lucky if you did that cause you could have bent some valves if it was out alot . what you have to do then is put engine on TDC on the compression stroke . this is how you do it : take out timing belt covers , crank pulley must be lining up with mark ( 12 o'clock ) both cam pullies must be lining up with their marks on the backing plates now install the timing belt , make sure all marks ( white lines usualy depending on what brand of belt you are using )on the belt line up with the marks on the pullies when thats done you have to make sure again that pullies line up with their marks . now you have to adjust the tensioner , this is how you do it : turn the crank clockwise twice with the bolt loose now put an allen key in the hole and while holding it tighten the tensioner bolt 43-58 nm do not overtighten or it may break and dont leave loose either . just check with your hand to make sure the belt is tight . if i remember right the cas has a slot so you cant put it in wrong but you can turn it left and right when its installed so your timing will be right . try all that and if you have probs let me know .

if it cant , take the cas out and put back in on tooth out to what it was before , if still not right turn it another tooth , its very easy mate . with the timing light pointing on the crank pulley ( someone holding it for you ) turn the cas to the correct direction ( so it gets closer to the crank pulley mark ) if it doesn't come enough then its got to come out . let me know how you go , dont take the covers off at this stage cause its got nothing to do with timing belt ( that doesn't mean the belt is right but it probably is )

yes they are , pm your details and i'll pass them on if you like

around the $1000 depending on what gets done

you just have to turn the cas , if you do it while the timing light is pointing and the crank pulley you will see what way to turn it , if it doesn't go far enough it means the cas is one or more teeth out , take it off and put it right . the timing light will not tell you if the valve timing is right so dong go taking everything off .

yea sorry to hear , i saw your other post after i posted here . wrx's are different though they love boost as they have lower compression than rb 26's , i have a rex too . did you have sti or normal rex ? sti's have forgies . is the engine out ? or just a compression test and no compression on no 6 ? do you have a power fc ? you see it could have been pinging , anyway you'll see the detonetion marks on the top of the pistons once you have them out . are you going to rebuild ? dont use a second hand engine , it may or may not be good and then you will have to do a rebuild anyway so do it right in the first place . if you need any advice just ask or you can pm if you like , been there done that . good luck with it but you are up for big $. what kind of power did you make with the 2530's ? i have n1's in mine did 1/4 at wsid in11.7 @120mph

dude it sounds like you cas is not right , check the timing and adjust if it still pings after you do that covers out to check timing marks , you can do that with just the top cover off . did you adjust the belt tensioner ? if you didnt that maybe your problem . did you check all the 2 cam pullies marks to make sure they are lining up while the crank pully was at 12 o'clock mark ? ( it was obviously on the compression stroke otherwise it wouldnt run at all ) when you buy a new timing belt it has lines marked on it to make it easier for you to line it up every mark goes on the marks on the pullies .

slugish and blue smoke = the engine is on its last legs , get a compression and or leakdown test then you will know for sure but its rebuild time for sure . rb engine rebuild ( depends on the job they do ) from $5 k up including r+r engine . then while the engine is out you do your turbo and a clutch and the $ go up

take the oil cap off and see if there is any blow by coming out , if it is you probably done a piston ( are they stock ?) 1.5 bar a bit on the high side for stock pistons . if there is no blow by then you may have blown a turbo ( they are a nightmare to pull off with engine in the car ) did you notice it slugish after you gave it high rpm like close to cut out ? without hearing the engine is very hard to guees what is wrong with it but if i had to guess i'd say you done a piston ( for sure if you stockers ) what kind of computer do you have ? what other mods ? how much power do you make ?

dont you remember the red r33 gtr ? anyway i hope you get a good engine from john and get a power fc before you stuff this one too .

so you desided to keep the car ..... get a front pipe , power fc , ebc and if you can a better turbo in that order . i hope the new (second hand motor is better than yours )

no one in vic as they dont have any distributors there they only import and sell in sydney , i'm sure it can be delivered in autralia post as it is totaly sealed and only weighs around 14-15 kg , if you are interested in 1 pm your phone and i'll get him to call you .

20x17x17 cm , it fits it the r33 but you need another bracket

well , i dont know how much he wants for it , as for bent i dont know that either , however if you are not interested in it dont worry about it , its not mine and i dont care , i was only trying to help you and a friend . you can always get a new one from nissan ............

depending on what mods you want but under $40k mid 30's for stock car . send me your email if you want a pic

i may have mine for sale by then ( going to japan to bring an r34 ) so when you are ready pm me if like . lightly modified , exhaust , 18" rims ( or stockers ) , genuine n1 turbos , pfc, rest is stock , has run 11.7 @120 mph at wsid body and interior very good , not the colour you are asking ( burgundy ).70k k's engine was rebuild 6 months ago , new turbos fitted at the same time and new clutch , i'm a motor mechanic and i do all the work on the car , new oil every 3 k k's ( helix ultra 15w50). its r33 made in june 95 and i have all the jap books with it ( if you can read japanese ) i wont be selling it until i get my r34 though

a friend has 1 for sale ( r33 ) what $ are you wanting to pay ?

still have it for sale , i dont know if it will fit some people say it will , you have to make your own research on that .

go direct to japan , you can buy a stock r32 from 700,000 yen , r33 from 1.2 million and r34 from around 3 mil + fob in japan ( 90,000 yen ) + shipping costs ( about $ 1000 us )

do u want bar only ? or lower lip as well ?

sure is but you may want to try different gear oil , it may improve it a little .

i have a gtr front b/bar and lower lip , no blinkers though . i'm in sydney

just get a sealed battery , something like odyssey .