wrxhoon

timber32 , did you use a new switch assembly or used ? if used thats your problem its not much better than yours . they are known to play up in all nissans not just skylines

hi arup , the turbos are much better now after running them in , i get full boost ( 1.2 bar ) at 4000 rpm in 4 th gear 4300 in 3 rd running a bit rich with these turbos so i have to retune it will be doing so in the next couple weeks . car was quicker taking off with the old ( stock ) turbos but it has more at the top end now above 6000 rpm . did u sell ur car ?

larger housings , larger compressor and turbine wheels ( larger too) spoll up 1000 rpm later , i just done the swap when i tune the power fc i'll let u know if they are any better .if i was you i would steel wheel and hi flow the original ones unless u want to mod for big hp i have turbo back exhaust 1.2 bar boost and power fc , have to tune again as it runs very rich now . i had these rebuild by garrett new shafts and new cores . i get full boost at 5000 -5500 in 2nd and 4700-5000 in 3rd

vspec2 , you have done all the hard work if you manage to get the engine all smooth ( rocker cover and timing belt cover i asume ) . now the easy part , all you need is a buffing machine (180 mm will do) if you got the rocker cover off the car its very easy .any buffing compound will do you can get it from a panelbeating supply shop , dont buy the stuff supercheap sell , put a little on the job and give it with the buff it will take out 600 scratches easy .once all finished , you may have to do a little by hand in hard to get places , get some alloy or any metal polish and rub it with that by hand .

if it was manual i would consider it but an auto ..............

i hope its not turbo seals , take it to a long downhill engage low gear say 3rd so its fairly high rpm 5-6000 stay off the gas pedal when you get to the bottom of the hill then push the gas pedal and watch in the mirror if you get a cloud of smoke either blue of grey whitish its not good . depending on the colour ( grey , white turbo seals ) blue =rings and or valve seals . ps make sure engine is normal temp not cold , any black smoke is unburned fuel .

i have wired my r33 so the low beams stay on when you put hi beam , i used 2 relays, that way the switch only switches the relays on, very little amps so the switch will last a lot longer as they are known to fail . bonus much brighter lights as i'm geting the full voltage on the lights due to the thicker and very short wires i used .

pull the head off and if you have any probs with timing pm me and i'll help you. headbolts tension .tighten to 29 nm then to 98 nmthen loosen them , tighten to 25-34 nm then 93 - 103 nm . make sure you line up all the timing marks with the marks on the belt ( use a new one ).make sure you insall the tensioner pulley washers and spring as they come off . when u insall the timing belt to adjust the tension rotate crank clockwise 2 turns with tensioner instalation bolt loose then use alen key and tighten the instalaton bolt 43-58 nm .dont overtighten case they are known to break . you will need 27 mm socket and a gear puller to pull the crank pulley off . it will be very tight 150 nm undo it say 10 mm then put the gear puller and it will come then u undo the bolt .

armbrusb , on 4wd 's you have to remove the engine to remove the oil pump , its the easiest way . its doable on the car but by the time you stuff around and drop the sump say 50 mm ( u have to lift the engine a little ) you may as well take the engine out then you can do the big end bearings at the same time . the oil pump doesnt have a gasket you use a liquid gasket , when you pull the oil pump apart to inspect use locktite on the bolts .

it sounds like cv's but it shouldnt make any difference what gear you are in as long as you are turning especialy full lock , it may only do it turning right or left or both sides . go in a culdesack put it on full lock then take it out of gear if it still does it then icv's for sure .is it a 4wd ? if yes front cv's if rear wd then driveshaft cv's

riggap , i have pulled several switches apart and yes they connect both lights when they work but when they short out they do funny things , like only one side going on or one side staying on you cant turn it off !!! you see for safety reasons there is 2 different circuits for the lights so when there is a prob you dont loose all your lights and 2 fuses for them as well . anyway if i had the problem first i would check the globes then the fuses ( they are in the fuse box in the engine bay ) if they are good the switch is the most likely problem

its a fairly common prob with most nissans , the switch itself , thats the thingy you turn clockwise to put parkers and headlights on . you take the steering covers off about 4-5 screws unerneath, then from memory 1 or 2 little screws and the switch is out but you must unplug it first . get a new switch from nissan around 90 -100 $ and ypur fine . i can repair your old one but no guarantee that it will last cause they short out or even break . sometimes u may not be able to turn say 1 light off , you turn the swicth and the left headlight ( or right ) may stay on .

do a search and u will find an old post i put up . make sure u get the timing right . the belt has matks on it line them up with the marks on the cam puliesand the crank and line all the pulies with their marks as well .

i have a complete turbo of r33 gtr with a busted turbine . my number is 0408973245 , from sydney. cheers jerry

benjiman what rpm do u get 1.4 bar at ? i get 1.2 bar at 5500 -5800 , i have genuine n1's had them rebuild by garrett . the stock ceranics i had spooled to 1 bar at 3500 - 3800

does anyone have n1 turbos in their gtr ? i want to know at what rpm they spool up and how much boost do u run with them . tnx in andance

at operating temp ( after u drive for say 20 -30 min ) idle speed around 2 on the stock gauge at 2000 rpm around 3 amd at 5000 rpm around 5

u maybe able to get more travel by adjusting the pedal u have to have a look , like sydney kid said a longer slave shaft will do the trick also , if u shorten it u want have clutch at all .

I know someone who is a fitter/dealer for this company. I have one in my vehicle...the system is excellent. I had a talk to him. Normal retail price is $950 + fitting. The other thing is that the unit does not come with battery back up. The battery back up add on to the system is an additional $50. The unit is useless without the back up as a thief can cut the main battery power and tow the vehicle. My friend charges $950 for the unit + $50 for back up and around $250 to fit (depending on vehicle). He is willing to supply and fit INCLUDING battery back up system for $1100 if he has an order of five units. He will not fit the unit without battery back up. He is in Sydney. If you are interested, I will supply contact details. He has a system in his vehicle which he can demo for you.

field , as posted earlier i didnt bust a piston .the rear turbo shit itself and pieces went though the engine so it marked the bore in the rear 3 cil. it had been rebuild before with o/s pistons ( .5 mm ) . it may clean up boring it out another .5 mm if it doesnt i can get 87.5 mm pistons ( wiseco make them ) but then i need aftermarket h/gasket ( nissan is 87 mm ). i will find out tomorrow . by the way stock nissan gtr pistons are cast not forged .

ylwgtr2 i dont think hks make pistons ( someone may correct me if i'm wrong ), they buy them from someone else dont know who though .

chris i'm still waiting for ur contact details for the turbos , if ur not interested let me know cause i have some other offers . i know the size of my bore i already measured it its 86.53 mm and it has 86.49 nissan pistons . skylinegoff thx for puting up the arias specs .i'll go with them if my bore will clean up for the 87 mm pistons as they dont list 87.5mm. are they the pistons ur using ? surely the machine shop would have machined ur bore piston diameter +4-5 thou clearence u did give him the pistons at the time he bored it put didnt u ? i have a good machine shop but i always check the clearence piston to wall and always check the rings as well put them in the bore and check the gap to make sure its right , if someone makes a mistake and u get the wrong rings ur stuffed big time . also if the top ring is chrome i give it a coarser hone otherwise the rings never bed in and it will blow smoke .

tnx andrew i know kristof and ben i think the price will be to high from them though but i'll give them a try . bl4ck32 the 05 on ur pistons followed by a letter is an id mark .standard pistons have a dot , thats the front mark followed by number 1, 2 or 3 thats the grade followed by and id mark followed by a pin grade . o/s pistons have 50 ( .5 o/s ) where the grade mark is on standard pistons .

i'm in sydney so are rocket industries so no problem there .the engine is out and stripped so i know the bore is stuffed and its already got .5mm o/s (20thou) the marks are fairly deep on 2 bores and until we bore it out u can tell if +1mm will be enough and u cant realy bore it out without having the pistons so catch 22 situation . i'm doing the rebuild myself so i dont have to go to any idiot to do it for me . the reason it stuffed up was because the idiot that i took it to get a pink slip ( anual thing in nsw ) has to take the car for a run and get a brake test reading with a machine in order to get it reregistered for a year , well he decided to give it a floging the rear turbo busted the shaft and all the pieces from the turbine went in the engine and stuffed it all up . i checked rockets website and they have 87mm pistons (+1mm o/s ) they dont have 87.5 but wiseco have 87.5 i'll have to find the australian distibutor for them just in case i have to use 1.5 o/s .do u know if the rings the come with are chrome ?( usualy only top ring ) chrome rings need more agresive honing otherwise they never bed in .

justinfox , r33 gtrs have the restrictor in as well dont know about r34s though . now that u removed it get a boost gauge that will read at least 20psi cause if u have a 3" exhaust hi flow cat u will find it may boost to 1.2 bar . ur turbos will not last very long at that boost so be very careful u'll end up with busted engine .