wrxhoon

field rb26 stock pistons are cast . r32 gts do u know what the compression is with the arias ? is it still 8.5 to 1 ? where did u get them from ? how much ? merli no prob with boring the block 60 thou plenty of meat there .the engine is dismantled now thats how i know that i have to bore it at least 40 thou maybe 60 u cant tell until u machine it if 40 will clean it up , if it does then i'll use 40 that way i have more options plus i can use stock h/gasket . its not badly melted block its got 20 thou over now so another 20 thats 10 thou realy is not much . thanks for the replays guys .

thanx for the quick replay skyline geoff . i can get pistons and gaskets from nissan i'm well aware of that ( as a matter of fact u can get anything u want from nissan to suit the skyline ). i just wanted to price the forgies for 2 reasons . first the max o/s u can get from nissan is +1 mm ( 40thou) my bore is badly marked so i may not be able to get away with that , i may have to go to +1.5 mm and i know u can get some forgies +1.5 . second forgies are stronger and probably a little lighter . if i can get them for $1300 (its only $300 more than nissan cast )then for sure i'll go the forgies .

looking for forged pistons for r33 gtr . any sugestions where to buy , brand , cost ? tnx in advance .

looking fro a pair of turbos to suit r33 gtr , will consider anything that will bolt straight on the stock manifold .

its just plain old mineral oil that some oil company makes for nissan , u can buy same stuff for $20 . i only use fully synthetic oil .

try puting it in reverse when the car is stopped if it crunches and goes in its the clutch , it doesnt disengage so the input shaft is still turning ever so little and that makes it hard to select a gear while the car is stationary .reverse doesnt have a syncro so it will crunch but will go in easier . the most likely reason that ur clutch doesnt disengage would be hydrolic problem either slave cil or master cil .

ben3232 , if u r thinking of buying falken 326 s dont they are rubish , u can get them 265x35x18 for 180 each here ( sydney ). falken st115 or fk 451 are the only falkens that are any good .

mate , u dont need another boss kit i can assure of that i had plenty wheels with bags out . but be very carefull cause the bag can go off , its possible but not probable if ur carefull .

nissan have everything for any skyline , u have to go to a dealer that deals with imports , not all of them do . there are several dealers in sydney that do though . shoe dgo to hornsby nissan they will help u , if they dont have in autralia they will order from japan about 1-2 weeks ( no charge for freight either . if u r closer to parramatta go there but their spare parts is in rosehill .

v8skylinemanmelb , only consider it if it has a compliance plate look elsewhere if it doesnt . if its its in good nick the price sounds good but i would prefer to pay a little more and get a turbo but thats personal opinion . by the way these days just about all autos are overdrive ( top gear that is) , just like all manuals are as well .

i think skyliner means the water was on the coil packs and around the sparkplug area not inside the cil itself , i dont think he took the plugs off . water cant get in the cil just by washing it . the water was shorting the coils so it was missing , now that the water dried out she is fine . if u r washing the engine u have to make sure u dry it completely when u finish with compressed air ( thats the bast way ) , u have to take the coil pack cover off to make sure there is no water under there .

if it does it when droping the clutch ( like a thumping noise ) it may be the mount . its easy to check , have a look its on the crossmember , if u cant see take the crossmember off its only about 8 bolts but u have to suport the box . as for the price not sure but it wont be cheap , check with nissan .

greg , thats what the prob is . the bearing is cheap u can get it from any bearing shop ( not nissan ) but 4-5 hours work to r + r the gearbox then pull it apart to replace it and while u r at it u replace all bearings in it ( again not expensive ) and any syncros that may be worn ( not cheap ). if the noise is very minor i would leave it as it is it may stay like that for a long time however if its very noisy u have to do it asap before it packs it in then pieces from it may damage the gears or other bearings .

rb25s and rb26shave a bleed valve as well but not on the firewall its on the front side of the intake manifold .

i never have any problem and i dont usualy undo the breather bolt but remember u cant let ur overflow bottle run dry ( maybe thats ur problem ) .u can top that anytime it doesnt matter if the engine is hot or not , its the radiator top u cant take off if the engine is hot . anyway the correct way of filling it up is as follows u do all hoses tight then open the heater valve ( with climate control put in the highest seting ,32 deg), undo the bleed valve then fill radiator very slowly so coolant will go in the block , cil head and heater , as soon as u see coolant coming out of the bleed valve do it up tight . put radiator cap on and do it up fully , start the engine keep it idling until thermostat valve opens , check that the bottom radiator hose is hot ( then u'll know that the thermostat is open ). rev the engine up a few times backing off every time ,that will suck the coolant in . stop the engine and when it cools down ( never undo the rad cap when hot )check the level in the radiator if down a little top it up . fill the reservoir tank to max only not higher ( u going to loose it if u do ). thats how u do it if someone brings u a car to do a radiator or just replace the coolant . u should do that every 2 years and never put water from the tap in it , i always use pre mixed coolant 33% if u go to the snow u should use 50%. by undoing the bleed valve its easier to get it filled however make sure u change the copper washer every time otherwise it may leak .

joel , i said its not a bad idea to bleed it . ur right they have bleed valves there for a reason , this is the reason : when u take ur car to a workshop it s easier to bleed the system rather than drive it till the thermostat opens so it will bleed itself but for ur own car u can do it the way i said no probs . by the way when u flash the system u should undo the plug on the block to get coolant out of the cil head and block and the heater on so the coolant will come out of the heater too .

joel , its not a bad idea to bleed the system when u change the coolant however the system will bleed itself . when u refill the radiator u fill to the top wait a little then it goes down refill again fill the plastic tank to the top put the radiator cap on take it for a drive to get it to normal temp so the thermostat opens let it cool down then refill the radiator to the top and the plastic tank to the top mark dont overfill it this time cause u only going to loose it .

predator , that looks like the box it should have the air cond evaporater in it and the heater core . the heater core is the same as the radiator core but a lot smaller , when u get to it u 'll know it has 2 pipes that go out to the firewall ( it mabe hoses though ) . i have never had one out from the skyline but plenty out of other cars , usualy its a big job in some cases the whole dash has to be removed but its got to be done and better u do it than some other the sphincter of the universe that will leave half the screws off when puting it back .

i have 4 tyres 265x35x18 , falken azenis still good for a track day or 2 , sell for $100 the lot or swap for 245x45x17s . pm or email [email protected]

guys if ur heater is the problem u can still drive it as long as u turn the heater off . if u have climate control put the temp on the lowest seting 18 deg . one way to check if its the heater when the car is at normal temp and when the ambient temp is say bellow 24 c put the heater on at the highest seting thats when the coolant should come in the cabin .

try the heater core in the cabin , hard to get to though under the dash

thats ur problem , not the water pump .fix that first and if u r still loosing coolant check to see if the water pump is leaking

benm: have u ever taken a steering wheel out before ? once u take out the cover ( regardless were it has an airbag or not ) u have to undo the nut ( usualy around 19 - 21 mm) then u need a gear puller to pull it off ( its tapered so it will be very tight ) .when u reinstall it u have to put it in the same position as it was before otherwise when u go in a straight line the wheel will not be in centre position .this is the best way to do it . put the wheel in centre pos and the front wheels pointing straight then take the wheel off ,make sure u dont turn the shaft when taking the wheel off or while its off when u r ready to put it back u put it cenre pos again , put the nut on take it for a drive if its one tooth out pull out and turn one tooth . when u take the cover off ( with the airbag )u'll see the wires u have to undo , airbag wires are usualy yellow . make sure u take the fuse off or disconect the battery . funkymonkey , yes ur right but remember when u r driving u r head is far away from the airbag and u can get a broken nose but thats the price u have to pay so u dont get seriously hurt or even die .

butthead , i'm not sure if u have to reset the airbag light after u reistall it as i havent removed one in a skyline before . i have done it in other cars though and it works without reseting it .neil have ever had a skyline wheel removed? ( airbag ). always be very carefull with airbags even if they are disconected , u dont want to loose u r head .

butthead , before u do it find the airbag fuse and take it out , if u cant find that disconect the battery and take care when handling the air bag always hold it away from ur head .