wrxhoon

i'm after a camshaft for an rb25det ( exhaust side ) if anyone has one for sale or knows where i can get one at resonable price pls let me know .

u have to unbolt the rails and u can only do that with the roof open , once u undo the rails u should be able to remove the whole assembly clean it out and refit .u'll find little screws that hold the rails in if u look from the top of the roof undo all them both sides . i never had a sky roof out but i had others out they should be similar.

davehoos 10 - 15 k before it reaches normal temp ? is that the coolant temp u r talking about ? thats to long if u r thermostat is working nornal it should take no more than 3 - 5 k . as far as going to overdrive ( auto ) it depends how fast u r going if u reach say 80 kmh it should shift it doesnt matter how cold it is . change the oil in the trany , it may fix that . as for block warmers we dont need them here , not cold enough to worry about .

u r right jimx they are the guides , when they touch the disc its time for new pads .

car tyres have 44psi max ( cold )jimx if u r tyres have 50psi u must have light truck tyres .i have 36 psi in mine ( cold )

they are all in jap, do a search there is a translation in some earlier post . are u looking at the fuse box in the dash or the boot ?

i dont know what type of bearings u have but if take one side out and clean it u 'll see the number on it ( they all have numbers on them ) take it to a bearing shop and they will give u one the same . make sure u pack it with ht grease before u put it back on.

1/4 panels are the worse to do because u cant cut the paint anywhere so u blow it off in to the roof and u always going to be able to see it . if u try to buff it ( where it was blown off ) u 'll see it more the more u buff the worse it gets .when u paint any other panel u dont have that problem because u paint the whole panel , u cant do thwt with rear 1/4's as they dont have a finish . riceee , it depends whats wrong with ur bonnet ( scrathed ,peeling, faded , damaged ? and remember if u need to paint colour near the guards u have to blend in to the guards so u nay have to paint 3 panels not just 1 . if the problem is in the centre of the bonnet then u blend to either side of it and clear the rest of the bonnet , u dont need to blend on the guards .

10w-60 is way to thick for the sky , u should use 5w30 or 5w-40 . i use to use mobil 1 but since the price is to high i use helix ultra 5w-40 . if u use thick oil u r going to have higher oil pressure not no more protection thinner oil flows better ( less pressure but more volume ).

u should never have boost at iddle , even at 3-4000 rpm u wont have boost unless u have some load on the engine . when ur going at say 100 kmh in third as soon as u take ur foot off the eccelerator u r boost goes too then u have vacium in the manifold .

thx mate , i just wanted to know what size the stock pipes are . very hard to find one with stock pipe

well its almost imposible to get all the coolant out : here is how i do it . undo the plug on the bottom of radiator ,undo the top and bottom radiator hoses , undo the plug on the cil block ( that lets all the coolant out fron the block ) and finaly undo the 2 heater hoses .put the water hose in the heater hose then the top radiator hose then radiator when im happy that all is clean then i use compressed air to get rid aff all the water out of radiator , block and heater that way very little is left in there . the reason u have to change coolant is because over time it looses its efectiveness . if u mix coolant with distilled water thats fine but as u have to buy the water why not buy it ready mixed and dont use any water , its cheaper ! for normal use 33% is fine if u want it to be more efective u can buy 50% ready mixed as well . i always use 33% , if u use 50 % u could change every 3 years .

push clutches are cheaper than pull , my r33 gtr has a pull , i think some r33gtsts have pull also . u should be able to get a heavy duty clutch for around $ 300

robo's does ur r33 gtst have a pull or push clutch ?

just hook it on the back of the cluster, find the light gobes that light it up and solder u r wire on the printed circuit it will have power on when u have u r lights on and it will dim with the lights as well .

dont use water as it has minerals in it that corode the steel pipes and the block, buy the ready mixed stuff. if u want to use concentrate u must buy the water too , its much easier to use ready mixed though and cheaper . the radiator should be always full to the top ( 1 cm down is fine ) the bottle u'll find it finds a level and it stops there it doesnt go down anymore , as long as it is above the min mark its fine , if u fill right to the top ( above max ) u will loose it very quick . never use old coolant either its not worth it u try to save $20 and u 'll spend a lot more changing pipes . i'm doing an rb 25 det cil head at the moment that had water in the cooling system at some stage , u shoul see the rust in it !!!

if u need to replace bearings u go to a bearing shop ( thats all they sell ) . if they are noisy they probably finished , thats the reason u check and repack them before they get water and shit in them .if the noise gets worse when u put them under load ( going on a right hand bend will load left bearings ) they finished . if u have different size tyres front and rear u cant rotate , u never rotate tyres left to right , even if they are not derectionals , only front to rear . u shouldnt have to bleed brakes but u must change the fluid every 2 years as it absorbs moisture . to check gerbox oil u undo the filler plug half way up on the drivers side of the box thats the level . the diff has one at the rear same thing . driveshaft and cv boots u just make sure they are not cracked and they are still straped so they dont get water in them and corode the bearings , if the boot is split or cracked u replace , u can get aftermarket for 15-20 bucks each . when u take u r tyres to a tyre shop they will know how to fit them on the tyres are marked with an arrow but make sure u put them on the car the correct way . crooser to repack u r bearings u have to take them out , clean them , put grease on u r palm and press the bearing on to it , keep doing that until it comes out of the other side and keep rotating the bearing until its all greased . duncan the noise u hear in the cabs its usualy their diffs not their wheel bearings . jimx 4 wheel bearings for the 2 wheels for the swift should be like 40 - 50 bucks from a bearing place like bearing industries at seven hills .

every 5 k k's is fine . here is what u should do . oil , oil filter , clean air cleaner , check the level on all fluids ( brake , clutch , g/box , diff, power steer ,coolant ,battery ). inspect drive belts ( tension , cracking ) cooling and heater hoses and connections ( for cracking , leaking ),exhaust system ,clutch pedal ( proper freeplay )brake pedal and handbrake ,brake pads and rotors ,brake pipes and hoses ,steering wheel linkage ,drive shaft boots ( for splits )ball joints and dust covers ,front and rear suspension,chassis and body bolts and nuts ,tyres ( rotate if u run same sise front and rear and corect pressure )lights ,horn ,wipers , washers , air cond refrigerant level ( sight glass ) most of these u would lnow if u drive the car all the time yourself . sparkies should last 60 - 100 k , u dont ajust or clean platinum ( u ll scratch the platinum off ) every 2 years 4o k k's change coolant , replace air filter , change g/box and diff oil and repack wheel bearings .

jimx , i hope u dont have water in ur cooling system , never add water to it its a sure way to corode all ur pipes the block and eat the cil head . old coolant would be almost as bad . go to a repco store , they have a 10 lt with their name on it for about $25 , make sure u get the one thats 33% not the one that doesnt say on it . ( that one is about $21 ) . i cange my coolant every 2 years on all my cars and always use 33% ready mixed , if u buy concentrate 100% u can mix with water but must be demineralised so it will end up costing u more , thats way i use ready mixed its cheaper . i never have to add collant in the system for 2 years but if u fill to the top u r going to loose some , only fill to the max mark on the bottle and u dont have to add untill it goes bellow the min mark .

rob77 was that a gtst, rb25det or gtr , rb26dett ? stock gtrs run a lot more boost like 11 - 12 psi i thought ( thats bog stock ). mine will hold 15 psi on 4 th gear uphill no probs .

stockgtr , im not interested in the pipe but would like to know the diameter of it , is it the twin dump pipe that u have ?

stockgtr , im not interested in the pipe but would like to know the diameter of it , is it the twin dump pirethat u have ?

try marion brake and clutch spares at croydon 97151511 , thats the closest i can think of to eastern suburbs .

mine ( r33 gtr ) runs 14.5psi with turbo back exhaust on stocc boost solinoid , 4th gear uphill it hold 15 psi . i have an engine manual but it doesnt specify how much boost it should have . it does say at what pressure the actuators should open the wastegate and thats within specs . just wondering why it boosts so high . 8 psi thats a bit low alex , i thought around 12 but r32 may be different to r33 .

the reason ur water is muddy is because at some stage before it had just water in it or the coolant was very old and infective , common with jap imports as they are not serviced in japan . give it a good flush and use a good coolant ready mixed dont add any water to it . u can use any coolant as long as it is at least 33% and change it every 2 years .