wrxhoon

your biggest prob would be the bellhousing bolting on to the rb block . i'm sure it wouldnt bolt straight on maybe a 6 sp gtr would . why spend all that money on a 6 speed though spend it on the engine instead u get a lot more power who needs a 6 speed then !!!

acediac ,i 'm not sure about the tomi sump baffle kit but the ones that i have seen u dont have to weld them , u unbolt the stock baffle and u bolt the aftermarket in its place , it has a lot more baffles in it and usualy they want yours as an exchange . i currently have 01 rex but its stock so its a good everyday car and it doesnt atract any attention , as for track its just not quick enough , gutless realy . on the other hand the gtr is heaps quicker and it handles bettr too . i have a set of 18x10 's with 265x35x18's , exhaust and 15 psi boost so its much more fun to drive but i do like the sound of the rex , they have a unique sound .

rb26dett sump has the front diff moulded to it so u cant use in your car but u r rb25 sump should fit on the rb 26 block thats what meggala was all about other option would be to modify the rb26 sump cut the diff off and a bit of welding .

mega , what u say is correct , manifolds do warp but people get carried away and do the nuts to tight, how many mechanics do u know that use a torque rench to do up manifold nuts ? thats more the reason why they break . correct again that some cars use no gasket while others use sim type metal gasket but nissan use a very thick one and they have a reson for doing that it alows for some warping . of course a 2 piece manifold want warp as much as it is a lot shorter just like a 4 cil head wont crack as easy as a straight 6 . i have seen plenty rb26 s with busted studs usualy 1 and 6 but also the middle ports as well . the exhaust gasket paper u r talking about we use to use it in the old holden red engines nowhere near as good as the current gaskets nissan and others use , they blow very easy and then they leak .

good luck finding a good one for $25 k gts4-30 t . good luck with the sale missgtr32

r33 has a baffle too ok for street driving if u want to do track work u need more , g forces move the oil aroung and the pick up my run dry especialy if the oil level is down a little .i hope u know u have to remove the engine to remove and fit the sump !!! u cant do it on the car . if u run short of oil number 6 big end usualy goes first .

hehehehe , try this go downhill a very long and steep hill stay in 4th or third gear do not touch the accelerator untill u get to the bottom when u get to the bottom of the hill eccelerate look in the mirror for smoke if u see blue smoke its u r valve stem seals . if it blows blue smoke under hard ecceleration and or high revs then its piston rings . just black smoke running a little rich but u'll get more at high rpm if running rich .

in normal driving little or no boost u dont need to cool the turbo but if u r driving hard for long periods of time u should cool it down iddle speed is fine as it circulates the oil in the turbo to bring it to normal oil temp like 130 - 150 , if u shut down after long hard driving the turbo could be like 200 + so the oil will cook thats when u stuff u r turbo . i always cool it down a few seconds ( 30 or so ) after driving on little or no boost and up to 3 minutes after long hard driving on full boost .

transfer case has oil in it thats for sure , i'm not sure what type it has in the gts-4 but the gtr has atf ( auto trany oil ) and its not the same as the g/box it has its own drain and level plugs .

if u took the studs out make sure u intall them the correct way ,shotr tread to cil head . do them up using 2 nuts locked together then undo the nuts ( i use locktite ). then install the manifold and do up the nuts in that order , if u already done them up tighter than normal it may leak when u loosen them so if they are all the same if not much tighter leave them . if u want to retorque them then undo them and start again that way it wont leak , unless the gasket is very old but u can use mufler putty

jimx i would never reuse a head gasket it doesnt matter how old it is , what if it leaks ? out comes the cil head again ( r+r 8 hours work ) gasket is only 60 - 70 $ . if the manifold gasket leaks its not that much work so if it looked ok i may resuse but if u have the cil head off its not that much more to get a vrs gasket kit . i would never buy a cardboard gasket ( i'll make my own ) unless it came with a kit . megagtst , the skyline gtsts use a very thick manifold gasket ( its like 2 together they do that for a reason , u dont do the nuts very tight as u can see by the specs , if u make u r own and do the nuts the correct torque it may leak !

for manifold studs 27-31 nmts, nuts 18-24 nmts and u must do them up in order or u will warp the manifold . here is the order u do them up :1rs nut is top nut on number 3 cil , 2nd bottom nut on no 3 , 3rd nut top nut on n 4 , 4th bottom nut on 4 , 5th top nut on n 2 , 6th bottom nut on 2 , 7th bottom nut on n 5 , 8th top nut on n 5 , 9th top nut on n 1 , 10th bottom on n 1 , 11th top nut on n 6 and last bottom nut on 6 . u dont have to stick stricktly to that order but u must start fron the middle and work u r way to the outer ends . when u undo the u do it the opposite way start from outside and work u r way to the middle . now u can see why u find busted studs on the skylines 24 nmts is not that tight when people do them up with a 1/2 inch drive socket they can put 50 - 60 nmts easy so busted studs .

u can get the broken studs out with an easyout tool .all u do is drill the broken bolt the right size then put your esyout in turn it anticlockwise and out it comes , u can do in on the engine but carefull dont drill to deep u dont want to drill the cil head . the reason the studs break on the skylines people do them to tight u must do them with a torque rench dont guess .

there is only one tensioner and it has a spring only the spring and the bearing will wear out unless someone tightend the bolt to tight and it may break then change the bolt but check the bearing on the iddler as well as for water pump u never know when its going to start leaking i wouldnt do it unless i could see that the engine has rust in it .

kamikazer33 the top g/box bolts on the r33 gtst are doable even without droping the box . its only the gtr that u cant do unless u drop the box a bit . anyway i would do them as soon as possible u may snap other bolts as u have more load on them .

as long as the old paint is in good condition a good painter should be able to do a good match . u say its the same colour , how can it be the same colour ? unless the same painter painted the rest and had some paint left over it cant be the same . when painters mix paint they have a formula that paint manufacturers give them and it tells them what colour tinters they have to use for a particular colour ( the car has the code on the id plate ) then they use a machine to accuratly disperse the amount of each tinter as per formula . ( some colours may have up to 7-8 diff tinters ) the end mix should be close to the paint in your car ( colour changes with age a little too ) now the painter has to eye match to bring it close enough so u cant tell the diff . metalic paint is easier because u can blend it and then clear the top , with solids ( none metalic or mica ,u cant do that ) so the match has to be a lot closer . dont forget u get what u pay for though , dont expect to pay 200-300 to paint a bonnet and expect the painter to spend 1 hour to match the paint . in your case as u painted half the car they should have done a better job though .

if u think the gtst box is hard and heavy try doing one on the r33 gtr then u'll swear a bit more . on the gtr to get to the top belhousing bolts u have to lower the engine box assembly first .the box is much longer than gtst and it weighs 90 kg but u can still do it on the floor with a trolley jack .

some nissan dealers will get any import part u want even if not in the country they will get it from japan ( takes about 5 working days ) at no extra cost . i dont know any in vic but i'm sure there are some .

i would get a new manifold gasket for sure as it was leaking . why did u undo all the rest ?u should have only undone the manifold and manifold turbo and maybe dump to engine pipe .all the rest of the gaskets u may resuse ( if they are not damaged )but put some muffler putty on them on both sides . prices are a bit high check another nissan dealer .

depending on the age of the car , if over 5-6 yo i would be changing timing belt ( u dont want it break ,it makes a nice mess on the valves ). u can never say the k's are genuine on any import , the rule is that they turn them back before they arive here .

u can buy an engine only hard copy for all r33 gtrs , they are about 230-250 $ in sydney

if u get all the old coolant out u need about 8 lts . i'll give u a tip dont buy 60+ again , buy any brand u want as long as it has a min of 33% ethylene glycol .

i hope u can get it off ok .

i'm after a camshaft for an rb25det ( exhaust side ) if anyone has one for sale or knows where i can get one at resonable price pls let me know .

u have to unbolt the rails and u can only do that with the roof open , once u undo the rails u should be able to remove the whole assembly clean it out and refit .u'll find little screws that hold the rails in if u look from the top of the roof undo all them both sides . i never had a sky roof out but i had others out they should be similar.