wrxhoon

No , you will need to mod extensively to fit.

I have a series I GTR wheel with the airbag ..

I have found the same with the b4's, there is a hole at 4-4400 rpm.

Bump it up.

Series I steering wheel is still available..

Yes

Mains= main bearings. Big ends= conrod bearings. I hope you have someone else building your engine...

Refer to my previous post, here it is again: Mains:46-52nm Big ends:Tighten 14-16nm then another 60-65 degrees.

Your calc is partly correct for the fronts assuming the offsets are +28and +37( not-28 and -37). So fronts will be 2mm further out lees 6 mm because they are 12mm narrower( half of that) so the net effect will be 4mm further in but only 4mm further away from the struts. I dont know how you worked the reats but its totally out. They will be sitting 7mm to the inside of the guards and 7 mm closer to the struts. Why would anyone want to use narrower rims on a GTR? Why would you want to use different size wheels ?

Thats the correct procedure, its up to you what/how you do them .

Head bolts should be done up in 2 stages as above . When you do them all up the first time you undo them all, then do them up again. Do them up from inside out and undo them from outside in .

I have these in Sydney, very close to Pennant Hills rd. You can have them for $150

No just the cluster, what you see in the pic.

I think you arte full of shit dude, do you actualy have a 34 GTR box ? If you do put a couple of pics of that on here, you must think people on here don't have any idea ......

Thats a 34 GTR gearbox? I think you have the wrong pic there. You have a wrx box there...

I have a Nismo 320 k cluster to suit R33 GTR, excellent condition , white face a syou can see and only 10k k's use. Located in Sydney but I will pack and post at buyers expense. . SOLDPayment cash on pick up or d/d if postage is needed. Email Jerry at : [email protected] , Ph: 0408 973 245

No idea , sorry mate I'm in Sydney, I wouln't use this mob again though. O.K the numbers are low but also the variance is a little on the big side , they should be a lot closer , again I don't think you can trust those numbers . A leakdown test involves pumping compressed air in the cylinders via the tester itself and it will give you a% of lost pressure, anything under 5% is good .

4x90 psi and 2x100 psi, not what I would expect from a good engine! Does your mechanic know what he is doing? Its a bit funny that the numbers are so round, 90 and 100. I must say thats its hard to believe that compression is so low on all of them and the car running so well . Your mechanic should know that 90psi is very low for any engine, even a 2 stroke engine would have more than that. Even if he never seen a GTR before he should know. If I was you I would do leakdown test as well, if the compession numbers are correct she will have some leaks either from the top-end or bottom-end but a leakdown test will confirm where its loosing compression from .

They are still ceramic but they are newer and ball bearing....

If one of the turbos lets go and some ceramic crap gets sucked in $6k won't go far for a rebuild and R=R engine. While you at it you will be doing other things as well , like clutch etc... Stock turbos are not worth much unless they are 34 GTR turbos, i have a pair of 33 turbos , one good one stuffed ( spat the wheel) , i'll sell for $150 for the 2 if anyone wants them ..

Not much diff in GTSS and R34 GTR N1's ( you can get R34 N1's with different specs). For $3 k you will get the 2 turbos and all the gaskets you need to do the swap.. GTSTS are more of a normal car if get the drift ( heaps of them are stock in Japan and have an easy life) on the other hand you don't buy a GTR to go shopping/church with, so they have a much harder life, especially an old one. Who knows where its been, how many k's its done , how hard its driven or even if it was stock before you got it in stock form . GTRS run higher boost in stock form as well. GTSTS blow turbos too but as a rule they dont suck the ceramic dust back in . At the end of the day its your car and your money so up to you what you do but you are talking about cams, cam gears and so on, before you spend money on that do turbos. Don't forget these will make more power than stockers with the same mods as well and they are just as responsive as stockers...

Series III has found a new home, series I still looking for a new home.

If the noise is there when the air cond is not on it could be the idler bearing ( seized , dry etc...) , thats the pulley whre the red line meets the yellow (bottom part) . With air cond off check to see it the air cond compressor turns ( it shouldn't ), just the pulley should spin . If it turns the clutch could be stuffed, Anyway if you dont care about air cond , just take the belt off, when you fix the problem then you put the belt back on .

I agree with sewid and others, pods on a GTR are a watste of time and yes they are a defect, as are all intake mods in NSW. But the pods are a magnet for the cops because they can be seen amd they know what they are . they can't see your boost controler , cams. computer etc... If you don't believe go and buy issue 70 HPI mag and you will see a stock looking white series III GTR in there with a STOCK airbox. I know you can't believe HPI or anyhting you read for that matter but i happen to know the car. She has well oner 350KW on all 4 ( yes KW not HP) and can run a 10 second 1/4 mile and 130MPH trap speed. Now when you are making that kind of power pods will help a little but they must be boxed and cold air fed. I have a stock airbox in my car just like sewid has and its good for 290 kw . I have run 11.8 1/4 mile at 118 mph with this set up. Actiondan, If I was you The first thing i'll do is get myself a set of HKS GTSS turbos ( around $3k from Japan), front pipes a good jap atback, ebc and power F/C and provided you have a good engine enjoy driving it . If you intend to track it you will need an oil cooler and maybe a better radiator . I would do all that long before I put any cams or cam gears in it . The stock turbos are very good but they are very old and can distract themselves at any time, as you dont know how the car was run before you bought it, when they do they may stuff your engine too, so cheap insurance . Stock GTR engine should have about 165psi on all 6, more important is the variance between cylinders. because it will depend on how the test is done . Do a leakdown test as well, its a better indicator . If you still want to keep your turbos don't run more than 1 bar and keep your fingers crossed, it could last forever and could blow up tomorrow, even on stock boost .

Head bolts :Do them all up to 29nm, then to 109nm, then undo them all. Do them up again to 25-34nmand finaly 103-113. Mains:46-52nm Big ends:Tighten 14-16nm then another 60-65 degrees.