wrxhoon

Yes you will need a pair for RB 26.

You can't get a colour code, take a sample to any auto paint pupply shop and they will match it for you.

Factory xenons give an excellent light, I have them on mine . Series III GTR's have projector xenons and they very good too but the 34 reflectors are better. Converted xenons ( to halogen ) are crap, you can't see anything in rain !!!

Still for sale

Bump

Location?

Mazda 6 MPS, is a much better car and not much dearer but a little on the heavy side at 1620 kg!!

I have the carpet ...

You cant be sure its the stock restrictor in the hose. They may have some sort of bleed valve maybe? As I said before you don't really know how much boost you are running until you have it checked ( may very well be 13.5 but could be even 16? 12? who knows? What other work was done on this car besides turbos? Maybe ajustable actuators ? Check with compressed air and a proper gauge to see at what pressure the actuators crack. You can't see the oil line restrictors because they are in the oil feed lines, R34 GTR turbos are ball bearing and ceramic exhaust wheel. I didnt say you have R34 GTR turbos, I said the AR 53 is 34 GTR turbo housing, for all you know they maybe hybreeds? They may well could be stock BNR turbos, you should be able to hear the turbos still spinning after you stop the engine if they are ball bearing BNR turbos .

I'm not sure if your turbo kit has oil line restrictors with it or not, if not you will need them or you may blow the seals, I'm guessing you dont have a 34 because 34's have them . HKS turbo kits come with restrictors and all gaskets you need to do the swap.

Cheers How do you know a) the stock restrictor is there and b) That you actually get 13.5 PSI? You will have to put in a proper boost gauge ( one that you know is correct) and check boost with that. The stock boost gauge doesn't even have a scale . Normal boost on R33 GTRs is about 11psi and when you have big exhaust and or bigger front pipes it can go up to 13-14 PSI.

You have BNR34 housing there mate, R33GTR turbos are AR 42 not 53.

the rears are different, if you have a GTT its easy to find for that.

I hope you know GTT+ GT are not the same .

.Wrong mate on the braking part anyway, like I said some other bastard broke mine, I had the pleasure of doing the build job... You are correct however on the replacing bit , I have done a few over the years ..... As for sucking the ceramic dust back in, no doubt on that part at all, ( not 100% sure on my theory though) besides there are a few others on this forum that know about it, I'm not the only one. I'm surprised there are still none believers though just because they haven't seen it happen ...

Thats big variance for a new engine , it should be a lot closer, thats the worry not the numbers, numbers will depend on lots of things , even the gauge the way you done the test etc.... I hope you have more than 4 thou ring gap otherwise you will have broken rings, unless you mean 4" piston to bore clearance .....

Here you go another none believer............ I have the proof dude , the cylinder head had imbebed in it ceramic pieces and I still have the pistons with the pieces in them .. what more proof do you need ????

- The stock boost gauge is useless, if it works it will only show up to about 14 psi. When the exhaust wheel lets go at say 100,000 rpm it smashes into 1 million+ pieces . There is only 3 cylinders spinning this turbo, at some stage of the cycle there is overplap on the valves so no exhaust gasses pushing out for those 3 cyls, the vacium sucks some ceramic pieces back in the engine via open exhaust valves. Most Rb 26's that loose an exhaust wheel will suck some ceramic dust back in, some more than others. I have seen plenty, it happened to one of my ex cars ( 33 GTR) a few years ago, unfortunantely I wasn't driving it so I didn't get the pleasure of blowing it , only the repair bill. Why it doesn't happen on RB25's? RB25's have 6 cylinders in to 1 not 3 so at anytime you have exhaust gasses pushing out ( its only what I believe, others may have other ideas) . Don't forget a few years ago no-one would believe you if you said the engine sucked ceramic dust back in when a turbo let go. If you care to do a search under my user name you will find the original thread when my turbo let go with pics of the pistons . If you know what you are looking for you can tell if the turbos have been rebuilt or not on the car but its not easy, especialy if you dont know what to look for . R34 turbos are better because they are ball bearing and newer, You could probably buy a pair from $700 up, depending on age and km. I sold mine a long time ago for $1500 but there were like new and genuine under 20k k's ( from a series II with the log books ). I don't know if its worth your while if you are going to pay someone to do the swap ( you won't get a cent for your turbos ). As sewid mentioned you will need restrictors on the oil lines for any ball bearing turbo , DON'T overlook that , you may blow the seals. If I was you I would buy new turbos or used from someone you know or can trust, buy either GTSS or N1 R34GTR turbos, anything bigger on a stock engine you are looking at a rebuild if you use the power . I know you will find others that will tell you " I have GTRS'S on mine without any problems ". All depends on how deep your pockets are ..

I have seen several cracked RB26 blocks ( all on GTRS though). Around the oil feed mostly , all had over 300awkw, all with aftermarket turbos, some 86mm bore , some oversize. At first they seem to just loose coolant but eventualy the crack goes throught to the bore . All the cracked blocks I have seen are the standard 5u blocks ..

I hope you don't expect the girls behind the counter at the RTA to know anything about ADR's, they dont even know about registering an import ... Of course xenons are OK as long as they comply with ADRS ( they need self leveling and washers to comply). Your compliancer is risking his license and a fine by letting the car go with tyres and lights that don't comply, of course he could always say that you change them afterhe put the plate on....

I'm very surprised that your compliancer didn't know that you need new tyres and either halogen h/lights or xenons made to comply to ADR( very expensive). If you need to make your h/lights halogen then reconvert to xenons, I have done it several times for a compliancer and i have custom made fitings to do the job . If you can't get them done elsewhere, send me a P.M.

Apexi Power F/C with hand controller, Will suit BNR 34, was fitted to a car for a short time but you wouldn't even know if I didn't tell you . Still in the original box . I'm in Sydney but I will post anywhere at buyers expense. SOLD

If you know what you are doing you can paint half the car with one lt.

Go to panelbeater supply shop not a panelbeater, I don't know where to send you in Melbourne, if you was in Sydney I could tell you . It should cost you about $15-$25 for 1/4- 1/2 lt then you will need some thinners too, some shops will put it in pressure pack cans as well, if you don't have a spray gun .

If you told us your location it would help. If you want a good match go to Panelbeater supply shop with the paint code and a sample ( fuel lid door). They will mix it and colour match it in acrylic .