The Bogan

Damn you google shopping Add in a new master cylinder and some HEL brake lines ......Must log off compta now

Add 1 new master cylinder, because why not

Took the Cruise Ship for a cruise on Sunday, all was well until I headed down Bulli pass, brake fad was was interesting to say the least, I made it down without incident, but, the front right disc was blue/black and the caliper was smoking like a champion After letting the brakes cool down we "gingerly" headed home at a extremely leisurely pace avoiding hills, luckily were at the bottom of the mountain and the brakes regained some bite for the plod home At home I jacked up to find a seized front left caliper, the pistons are FUBAR from rust and the seals are also questionable So, as I do, it is time to use my typical approach to things I've ordered new: Front and rear calipers (OEM) Front and rear discs and pads (DBA street series), which by good chance were currently on special at SCA And also new some new OEM front wheel bearing assemblies...... #while were in there..... (I'm assuming the front wheel bearing didn't like being at 11ty million degrees, and for a couple of hundred to replace it is a no-brainer, good thing the Commodore parts are cheap as chips to replace, and plentiful) The Commodore has now been put to bed until all the bits and pieces arrive

I see your straight 6 RB and raise a 4AGE 20v with ITB reving over 10k rpm

Major issues apparently with the noises the Honda makes now, Jackie has decided that the Honda is to "buzzy" when she is giving it the beans heading to the shops (the Honda is like the town bike for the family, everyone takes it for a ride) so I have a incoming resonator to keep the Minister of War and Finances happy From the Google's the Vibrant 1140 will slip over the stock pipe for a easy fit, will knock out most of the buzz, and there is adequate room for it in the OEM midpipe without any clearance issues with the floor or ground clearance I liked the bit of buzz at higher rpm as I felt it suited the Honda 4 cylinder V-Tec YO sound, but, you got to keep the better half "reasonably" happy I suppose It gets its tune early Feb when Chongie heads down from QLD

Gave the Bogan Cruise Ship some love IRT paint As there is no one really at work I had easy access to the wash bay, and undercover parking 1. Truck wash and hot water pressure washer to clean off most the old wax and sealer 2. Then some Chemical Guys clean slate to clean off what the truck wash and hot water pressure washer missed 3. Then 2 coats of Autoglym ceramic coating I'll give it a day for the ceramic to cure, then hard wax it Whilst the ceramic leaves it nice and shiny, I find a good wax will give it a deeper look to the paint, I also find the wax also protects the ceramic coating as a sacrificial layer I'm basically preparing it for all the ash from the bushfires that will probably happen over the next month or so, and the hot water pressure washer at work makes short work of removing old wax when required (every couple of months) As for the Honda, I finished painting the stock rims, they had some hectic scratches on them, but, am I happy with how they turned out, not really, but, they are much better than they were Also, the new header and front pipe on the Honda is all V-Tec YO buzz box noises now when it gets given the beans, it is though surprisingly quiet still when cruising around, whilst the Honda ain't fast, it is fun as a fuel efficient daily hack

I'm glad you, Lex and the car "eventually" made it home safe and sound I've used the NRMA alot over the years, I always get the premium package, the small amount of money it costs to join has paid for itself over and over again, they have never actually made any money from me over the years with all of the tows I've had It does look like a good time to inspect and remediate any of the questionable wiring from yore I'm sorry I missed your initial PM and was unable to give support

Took the Bogan Cruise Ship to Goulburn to visit the daughter for 2nd breakfast and lunch, car was a pleasure cruising on the Hwy The kid has grown up and is adulting like a boss I miss my "little bunny rabbit" who only had time for her dad, now it's all "I have to go to work now dad" (NSW police).... proud dad is proud I believe my parenting superpower was letting her watch me do dumb shit, and her learning from that of what not to do In saying that, her Xmas present, that she asked for, was a cat back for her new Kia Cerato GT hatch, that did put a smile on her face when she took it for a drive after we fitted it

Big difference between the stock pressed and welded steel header pipe and the cast aftermarket one in relation to smooth flow Plus the OEM header isn't matched to the head or gasket, whereas the aftermarket one matches the gasket and head

When you take into consideration the 2 couplers, and the centre bearing, which I priced up the OEM spec Hardey Spicer units at Repco for around $500(ish) for the 3 items, and whatever the uni cost, I didn't think the price was overboard for them to supply, strip, rebuild with new parts, balance and paint

I booked it so it was less than a 1 day affair to drop it off, for them to pull it apart, rebuild and balance it, it was only a hour or so later when they rang to say it was ready for pickup I think it was around $800????, that also included the new, Hardy Spicer uni's, couplers and centre bearing Did you get the exact same as the Xtreme GTR, as in material, wall thickness and diameter What was done, if anything, to the Xtreme GTR IRT the uni angles?

Have a Google IRT max tail shaft speed What is your tail shaft speed? Calculations are based off tail shaft speed (RPM), length, material type, material thickness and diameter Balancing should be done at a higher rpm than your average steet car if your turning high rpm Phasing needs to be correct And uni angle should be in spec, no uni angle is bad, to much angle is bad, uni joints apparently like a little angle to help their internal bearings spin, some say rule of thumb is between 0.5° and 1.5° for high rpm This is why jacked up really high 4x4's do uni's I had issues with my 2 piece when I lowered my K-frame by only 10mm, it basically kept chewing out the couplers because the alignment was out of spec Like you it developed high speed vibration, started about 90 mph, and was like a earth quake at 124 mph I got my alignment right, rebuilt/rebalanced the tail shaft, and now it's good to go 2 piece tail shafts have alot of advantages over a 1 piece when you look deep, especially on a street car

I'm happy how Bogan Cruise Ship is, so just maintenance and the assumed broken bits now and then As for the Honda, if, when, the clutch goes it might get a LSD (while we're in there), apart from that it will remain "stock" I keep trying to spot them when driving around, I think "there's one", but nope, they keep turning out to be Toyota Camry's 🫣

Consumers will consume, I pulled the pin on something for the Honda I said I didn't need, but meh, a PLM header, comes with a decat The decat pipe will get the cat chopped into it This basically optimises the exhaust now for NA duties Express shipping so should be here in under a week But probably not as it is coming via Australia Post from QLD, so could take a month But apart from this, the Honda is staying stock....

Finally got around to putting some car builders under bonnet stuff on, basically to camoflauge the chop chop a bit I do need to replace the windscreen squirter hoses though as they have hardened up Before After Fully stock now.....

Now with added 32kg goodness

Took the Bogan Cruise Ship for a nice little cruise around this morning, just a little run down Heathcote Rd to the coast, rolled past Cronulla beach, Brighton Le Sands, Maroubra beach, Coogee beach, then into Randwick, then home The only stop was for some Tacos and a Corona It was nice to get it out and about for while I really want to do a drag and drive event next year, not to be competitive, basically 1 and done on street tyres, so just for the fun and experience of it all It looks like a trip to Qld or Vic (Mexico) to do it properly though

Disclaimer: Long post for dead thread I've been hitting the bells and stuff for a few years now, I now only train at at home, and first thing in the morning on a empty stomach (after a strong cup of coffee) I been watching Dan John and Pat Flynn on the YouTubes for a few years now and have been running a basic strength and mobility program "based" of their programs I started with the stuff posted above bells in 2021 when the gyms shut down with Covid The current "stuff" that I got and use is: 2 x 24kg 2 x 20kg 2 x 16kg TRX suspension trainer Pull/Chin up tower AB roller The single 6, 8 and double 12kg bells have collecting dust in the shed What I want: 1 x 32kg for swings, and then progress to 1 x 38kg bell for swings 2. Start doing 30 minute afternoon/evening walks when time/family permits My Monday and Friday workout is hinge, press, squat, alternating chin and pull ups, and AB rolls Warm up is 20 star jumps and 10 burpees for 3 rounds that takes 2 minutes Then into the workout Work. 20 seconds Rest reset. 20 seconds 1. 10 x Alternating single 24kg KB Swings (tried double swings but 2. 4 x Double 20kg KB Clean and Press 3. 4 x Double 20kg KB front squat 4. Alternating sets between Chin ups and Pull ups x 5 then dead hang till I hit time 5. AB roller x 10 I do the above 5 exercises with a Tabata timer for 10 sets Takes 31:30 minutes All up it's: 60 star jumps 30 burpees 100 swings 40 clean and Press 40 front squats 25 chin ups - 25 pull ups 100 AB rolls All up just under 35 minutes, so basically go hard by but paced Once I hit 5 good form lifts for each exercise I go up weight and drop reps down to 2 for a week or two, ensure my form is on point for a while, then add a rep, rinse and repeat until I hit 5 reps, or time, then rinse and repeat In saying this I do sometimes need to de-load and drop the weight or reps, I let my body decided what is best Tuesday and Thursday is TRX, body weight and more AB roller, with the same 20 seconds work, but a 15 second rest as the TRX doesn't hit my CNS as hard as the bells Warm up is TRX stretching out the joints for 60 seconds, 10 seconds rest and reset, then max reps for: 1. TRX Push up 2. TRX Row 3. TRX T Y I 4. TRX Curl 5. TRX Tricep Ext 6. AB roller I'm currently doing it for 8 sets Around, 120 push ups, 100 rows, 70 T Y I, 100 curls, 100 tri ext, 100 AB rolls Takes 32:30 minutes total Again, hard, but paced Wednesday is currently 16kg farmers walks for 50 meters, drop the weight then do single 16kg snatches for 3 reps each side, then pick up both bells and rinse and repeat for 45 minutes Saturday or Sunday is a leisurely hour walk Whilst I haven't lifted heavy for a few years now, my joints and ligaments now thank me for it, and whilst my joints and stuff are still problematic, the training is helping me keep my bone density, muscle, and mobility in check, which is a priority at my age of 58, but even when I get older, and age creeps up, I can always dust off the lighter bells and keep on keeping on, if I can still throw bells and do some body weight exercises into my older years, like post 70 years, I would consider that a win As for the advantage of not going to a commercial type gym to train is time management, plus, not having to deal with all the Muppets prancing around and using poor form, or hogging equipment and chatting with their Muppet friends, or the ones that just stare at their phone for most of their time in the gym, or the ones that don't replace weights, or sweat all over the equipment only to walk off without cleaning it up, or the ones that want to start up a conversation in the middle of my session, not going to a commercial type gym is really good for my mentality For the Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday sessions I watch the news and wait for the Tabata timer to tell me to work or rest Wednesday sessions and weekend walks are fuels by my YTMusic selection of 70's, 80's and early 90's alternative music After training I make up my oat, protein, peanut butter, honey, 1 apple, half a banana, plain Greek yoghurt and some spinach smoothie Then wash and get ready for the day, total time from start to finish is about 1 hour I do watch what I eat and drink though, but only to a point, I do drink alot of Coles brand sparkling water throughout the day, I find I can get my water intake in easier with sparkling water, though I still like a low carb Beer and/or Scotch or two, a little bit of chocolate now and then, and we regularly go out for dinner of lunch My food is based of every vegetable, and every dead animal that I can get I also make sure I get a minimum of 8 hours sleep every night Supplements: Multi-vitamin - fish oil - Glucosamine Daily old man meds (I had a little "fun sized" stroke a few years ago due to blocked arteries from cholesterol, read: to much crap food): Asprin (blood thinner)-Atorvastatin (cholesterol)-Esopreze (reflux)- Paracetamol (when needed for arthritis) I have heen seeing some of the best, specialists, surgeons and physiotherapists over the last few years, they are all extremely happy with my progress and training regimen and wished more of their patients took their health and wellbeing more seriously like I have Tip for young players, look after your health, get regular health and blood tests, the amount of young people on the stroke ward I was in was an eye opener, my vascular surgeon said I was in the 1% of people who turn their life around, the other 99% either die soon after from "the big one", or end up having more little episodes, each little episode typical removes a bit more brain and/or body function In the last 3 years I've gone from a "chunky", read: actually unhealthy 89 kg power lifting/body builder with the modility of a plank of wood, to a "slimmer" 75kg fit, healthy and fairly strong (5'6" short arse) human with much, much improved mobility, functional strength, and alot less body fat TL:DR, stay healthy fellow humans

Finished my duties early so ended up doing the front dampers on the Honda Neither had a leak, or signs of a leak, but both were FUBAR Neither would come all the way back up Luckily again, both the bump stops and top mounts, plus the spring bushes were fine I'll head in early tomorrow for the wheel alignment

LOL, yeap But dang it, it took me 4 bloody hours to do the rear shocks on the Honda today No manual, and nothing really helpful on the YouTube Removing the parcel shelf took ages to get to the top mount bolts, there was hidden clips that were a nightmare to pop out, and some seat trim that needed to be removed Then, working out which arms needed to be disconnected IOT get the first coilover assembly out of the wishbone and past the inner guard was trial and error, and took much longer than needed, basically everything needed to be disconnected to get the hub assembly low enough, and the "angle of the dangle" right so it could exit past the body In the end I needed to undo the camber arms, I did use a paint pen to mark where the alignment adjustment was, but, as I WD40'd the hell out of the bolts the paint wiped off....DOOH I did spend a bit of time cleaning the damper boots and springs as well, the whole rear coilover assemblies and all the arms and wishbones now looks like new and all the bushings are fine The passenger side damper had no leaks, but it wasn't really good when pushing the rod down and watching it come back up, it went down fine, but kept hesitating going up The drivers side had a small leak, and was much worse than the passenger side when testing it Compared to the new shocks the old ones were Schizo in there range of motion Fronts will need to wait till Friday though as I've got some other stuff to do tomorrow I do have a good YouTube vid for the front though, I've watched it a few times and reckon I'm all over the process for the front Front and rear wheel alignment will happen Saturday morning And no, I'm not planning on flipping the Honda for a few years, it's a great little daily that just needs some love and attention Mark style 🤪

No glitter or bits of stuff in the Honda's gearbox oil, which is nice It was pretty dirty though, you could still see through it a little bit when I poured it into my oil collection drum, but in the pan it looked black, so well over due for a change, in saying that the transmission shifts fine Whatever the gear oil that was in it is anyone's guess, but now it has a belly full of the recommended Penrite pro gear semi synth 75w/80

And the Honda Accord Euro has finally earned its Euro tag as real Euros have check engine lights", well until it gets some #chongdata love and attention in January

The Honda only sounds marginally louder at idle and WOT now, but now I can at least hear the exhaust when I'm up it from around 4k RPM all the way to redline Luckily no drone or raspyness at all at any road speed, which I was actually expecting it to do somewhere in the rev range, I did think I would need a larger resonator in the mid pipe, but luckily not For a little 4 pot it actually sounds good when I'm wringing it's neck rowing gears..... V-Tec Yo 🤣 So far the Honda Accord Euro cannot claim the "real Euro boy" tag, as it hasn't thrown a code yet, I am expecting it to at some stage though, probably when I take it for a long drive, or park next to a VAG, but the tune will fix that Tomorrows job is changing the gearbox oil and fitting the new dampeners, then onto giving the wheels some attention to get them ready for some rattle can etch primer and wheel paint love

Just dropped the Honda off to "fix" the cat in the header and front pipe Until the car gets its tune it will be just like a "real Euro boy", as I assume a check engine light will come on and I'll lose cruise control until that gets "fixed"

I'll give you notice where I buy my new house in just over a year, if you buy before that I hold no responsibility if you end up with a old Bogan who lives in your area Love, The Bogan King