The Bogan

Got the Yaris home Fuel economy on the way home used an 1/8th of the full 42 ltrs tank of fuel over about 170km, and it ran like a dream on the hwy (no cruise control unfortunately) Once home it got some well needed cleaning and love, oil and filter, air filter and some spark plugs, the trans fluid and coolant looks sweet, so nothing to do there Then I spent the next 5 hours getting it shiny shiny, I soaked the undercarriage, engine bay and body with some truck wash, then hit it all with the pressure washer and got rid of all the built up Goulburn bugs, dust and mud Then came the first wash and engine bay detail, then polish, then second wash and then finished it off with some wax The interior got the vacuum and lots of armour all, then the windows, the windows actually took about 3 goes around to get the windows clean, I think my daughter used a oily rag to clean them, they were filthy, the only issue with it is a stone chip on the passenger side, not huge, but still warranting some of that chip repair It was so enjoyable servicing and cleaning it all, and the before and after is amazing, Oh what a feeling The seats still need a good clean with the Bissell though, probably next week some time, the daughter drove around with her Staffie in it, they're not that bad, but not to my OCD level of clean will not allow it Getting the Yaris back now couldn't have come at a better time due to the Cruise Ship being broken, it is booked into Craig's to get looked at on Wednesday, "hopefully" it just needs to be pulled apart, cleaned, and some upgraded shafts put in, more on that later Once back though, the Bogan Cruise Ship will be relegated to cruise duties only, so no more racing at the strip with drag radials on

I cannot justify the coin it would cost really When chatting to Craigs about what I can do, to suit what I want the car to do, lots of Hwy cruising (so not a built T400 because no overdrive or lock up), and the occasional run down the strip, they suggested a built 6L80e conversion, they rate them at 800hp at the engine, and with my current power I could beat on the 6L80e all day at the drags, to try and run a 10.??? "but" the drive in and drive out cost is north of $20k though They also said I could then turn up the boost a bit and still keep the transmissionin in its happy place, but then I'm still on stock internals, and stock driveshafts, and from talking to a few modified LS1 owners, and a couple of tuners, I don't want to go over the torque that the engine is currently making That's lots of coin to spend when you start adding it up, and all to just do some more PB's on the strip, in a "street car" I'm trying to not explode the budget into the stratosphere, but still have some reliability for the power the car is making now Adding up risk vs reward Probable scenario: some billet stuff for piece of mind and added reliability whilst the box is out, but no more drag radials on a sticky surface, the sticky tyres slipping and grabbing when launching and the torque the engine makes is the elephant in the room, which is sitting on the 4l60e Whilst a 10.??? would be nice for bragging rights, it doesn't help with cruising around on the street on street tyres, which the car sees 99.9% of the time The VX is a awesome big comfortable cruiser though, and it fits the whole family in, and it already rolls on hard enough to make me smile Sad, but true Unless I win Lotto, then all bets are off Note to self: buy a Lotto ticket one day

Cheers, will definitely look into that

Booked into Craig's Automatics next Wednesday to see what let go, possibly some billet parts are required, from chatting to them it sounds like the input shaft let go I'll tell you what though, when I launched it after a huge burnout it just hooked and was probably the best launch the car has ever done, well, until it went BANG Anyways, time will tell on what is required In other high performance news, I pick up the big block Yaris this Saturday, I'll catch the train down to Goulburn, hang with the offspring, then roll back to Sydney on Sunday arvo in Yaris style, so, all of the fuel efficiency, and extremely slow 🐌 😀 👌 👍

Meh, cars hey,LOL

11.2ish Then the 11.04 but didn't get a 10.999 when I had another run, I did a big bang when I tried for it though The 4l60e was rated at 600hp at the engine, my car make about 600hp at the engine I was warned that even though it was a built transmission it wouldn't like big hits on drag radials Meh, I'm getting my monies worth out of my NRMA membership, so there's that, LOL

Close, but no cigar The start line is pretty average though I'll have 1 more go and see if I can get a better 60'

So far so good...

Gave the Cruise Ship a mini service, new engine oil and filter, also drained the diff and gave it some fresh oil, also put some new brake pads in because from a sideways glanced they looked low, found out they had heaps of meat still left, meh, changed them anyway and bled the brakes Then looked at the weather forecast, it looks good for tomorrow, that got me thinking Race prep involved me putting the drag radials on, removing 2 umbrellas, a few towels, a pair of crocs, and a straw hat from the boot, the car is now race ready for a few runs down the strip tomorrow night at WSID I also put my tyre pressure gauge is in the centre console, I forgot it last time and was running around 30 psi in the drag radials Yes, I do have my local tilt tray guy on speed dial I will either be posting slips, or pics of the car on a tilt tray......again.....

I would look at some plate underneath anything you are thinking of drilling throufh and attaching fixtures. Even a small amount of side loading could cause issues Safety first

Fair point on needing all round tyres, that's why I went back to the RS4 As for how long the R888R's lasted, I was surprised as well, although I pretty much just cruise around like Nana 90% of the time, it did rack up most of the km on lots of trips up and down the Hwy to Goulburn and back, I got the R888R's initially to try and get some traction from the dig, and while they were much better than the RS4's they still had traction issues, thus they were replaced with some drag radials for the strip and rolls The RaceTCS has helped massively with the RS4's on the street with traction though, both in the dry and more importantly wet conditions Happy travels

If your car doesn't come out to much in the wet Toyo R888R's last well, I got about 10k km out of them before putting RS4's back on, the R888R still had a few mm left from the tread wear markers when they came off, so probably another few k km's The R888R's were the best "fair weather" street tyre I have ever used, BUT, they didn't like pools of standing water I do alot of Hwy driving, rain, or shine, and whilst the R888R's were exceptional in the dry on the street they really didn't inspire confidence when hitting pools of water on the Hwy doing 110 kph If my car was just a sunny Sunday cruiser I would definitely still be running the R888R's, the difference between dry grip between the R888R's and RS4's is large, as you would expect From my experience with the RS4's you are likely to easily get 10-15 even 20k km out of them on the street if you aren't doing lots of skids or track work

Some older models only have 1 before for fueling, later they also had 1 after to measure emissions and the efficiency of the cat My old (2002) only has 1 before the cat

Swaps for a big block Yaris, I know what I got....

Well it wasn't from Nissan/Nismo, lots of tuner shops and dealers put their own spin on things, like the Yenko Camaro in the states to name just one over there in 'Merica, also some shops here in AU did dealer specials years ago, much like the Walkinshaw packages you get nowadays

Maybe, probably

SAU search Not Nissan, it was a dealer spec car

http://kurosorablog.com/2020/12/280typemr-the-rarest-of-the-rare-gts-t First thing that popped up on Googles

I had a smoke/pressure test done at Unigroup engineering years ago https://gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/15-smoke-testing-boost-leaks/ That was at least 15 years ago though, my memory ain't what it use to be I just remember them saying that the Blitz valves were junk and had a bad habit of leaking

Daughters new Cerato GT turned up, real nice little rig, she is having a blast "running it in" Soon I will have the big block Yaris in the shed to tinker with and daily She has kept the Yaris well maintained over her ownership, although first up, will be a full service, then a good going all over and under with the pressure washer, then detail, wash, polish and wax to get all the squished Goulburn bugs off it, and all shiny shiny One of my favourite things about new old cars is the initial servicing and cleaning.....weird

Hardy Spicer said if I wanted a strong custom tail shaft that handled all of the rpm it would cost around $2-3k, but that also included different yokes and replacing the rubber coupling for uni-joints

I kept spitting PS belts with a Ross balancer on my 25/30, Unigroup did some measurements and found the alignment was off, but after using some small washers on the PS bracket it was OK Yes it was a 25/30, but that was explained when the trigger kit was purchased, albeit over 10 years ago

I have nothing to say bad about them at their Moorebank location I really don't pay attention to internet feedback on any workshop, to open to negative feedback from randoms or competition, typically I rely on word of mouth When I initially went in for a chat they talked to me for a while about what I needed IRT my power and stuff Hence why I still have the OEM 2 piece tailshaft I was originally looking for a custom 1 piece or 2 piece, they said that are happy to build me whatever spec I request, but, the OEM shaft for my car and the power and revs it would see would be fine, they also talked a bit on the need to get the gearbox, front shaft and centre bearing right for reliability I'm not sure how the angle of the dangle translates to your chassis, but getting it right is really important on the VX The old shaft was dropped of on one day, and ready to pick up the next day fully reco'd and balanced up, as for cost, it actually came in under the initial quote price by a little bit, which from my time dealing with workshops is unheard of Plus, I was happy to spend whatever was required if needed, their honesty saved me quite a lot of dollars, one of the places I looked at was GJDrivelines, whilst that was rated higher (which wasn't needed for my application), it was over $1k more IIRC Which location did you use?

Who's doing your tailshaft, what specs and shizz?

I went through this with Hardy Spicer a while ago with my tail shaft rebuild (2 piece) The sciencey stuff IRT harmonics, tailshaft RPM and the "angles of the dangles" between the transmission and diff was quite interesting Whilst not a shiny thing that most people think about, the tail shaft sciencey stuff is essential for reliability (loosing at tail shaft at high speed can be interesting apparently)