The Bogan

If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣

Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me

No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....

The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling, and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2002-holden-commodore-ss-vx-ii-auto/SSE-AD-18219062/?gts=SSE-AD-18219062&gtssaleid=SSE-AD-18219062&pageSource=details

The scrap metal bin at work works for me

20241125_141026.mp4 Some more pics It is now back under the cover and on the battery tender until someone comes and looks at it I'll knock up a ad and stick it on car sales tomorrow

Currently advertised with some A4 flyers up at work for $30k ono Will detail it next week, and get some good picks for carsales, then put the cover back on and put it back on the tender until someone comes to look at it No real hurry to sell, in saying this I would like it gone with in 6 months as I am retiring in May 25 and lose the ability to store the car undercover in a secured site, plus as we are moving out of Sydney the potential buyers market will be more limited https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485907-2002-vx-ss-commodore-30000-ono/

Down shifting = Right gear, right RPM, right road speed! Try rev matching on the down shift

I would, especially if the car has had a few start ups or short trips to move it around But then I'm anal as fark about oil changes, as oil is cheap, and servicing is fun.....

These are still here, but, when I sell the SS they will go with it if not sold prior

I get 9 hours a night, every night 🤣

Yeah, the plan is to just put some black rubber vacuum line caps over them to "hide" them a bit I don't want to trim them in cause I need to put the OEM box back on at some stage

Lowest point on the car is 105mm now, so just legal and hopefully high enough to clear After paint, much happier with how it looks Before looked real 😝

Perfect

I'll measure it up at the lowest point later and post it up Currently painting, with the oven all warmed up to 93°c

After some googling of various websites IRT the best ride height for correct geometry I ended up going, hub to guard, 330mm in the rear and 345 at the front, these heights came from Flyin' Miata in the states as what they recommend (13" rear, 13.5" front) The rear needed to only come up 5mm, but the front came up 15mm Overall it is around a 25mm drop from OEM ride height, doesn't look all 4x4, and hopefully should be enough height to clear those pesky speed humps I have lost around 0.5° camber on the front, and around 0.2° in the rear, I have no idea about what it did to toe settings so I'll look at a new alignment next week to get it set up how I want, zero rear and a little in at the front I've also stripped the new intake and am currently cleaning and preparing the alloy for some paint, I've headed into work to do it as I can use the ovens in the soils lab to cure the wrinkle paint at 90°c Jackie has banned me from using the oven at home for stuff like this....🤣

At my age, 59, I'm in bed by 20:30 nowadays 😴 I'm pretty much a solar powered device, powering up at first light, and powering down when the sun goes down 🤣 Oh to be young again.....

Dumb question, but does the turbine spin by hand? Also, do you have a rag or something stuck in the intake/intercooler somewhere Hopefully it is just something simple you missed during reassembly

Also discovered that the NC ride height needs to come "UP" at least 10mm to clear some newly found speed humps up the central coast 😫 Job for tomorrow, I'll start at 10mm up other both ends from where it is now and hope that's enough for our next adventure

Nope, I stayed at some dumps in my youth, but now it's real nice or nothing 🤣 Currently kicking it at The Entrance

Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣

Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake, if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy

@KinkstaahKrinkle paint the "silver" alloy, not the red filter frame Engine bay heat won't be a issue worth worrying about as the silver alloy blocks it off on 3 sides, as for the top, the bonnet seals most of it and the big OEM CAI intake snorkel is still fitted in its original position I will head into Clark's Rubber when I have some time to grab some pinch weld to tidy up the alloy after I paint it As for performance, I honestly wasn't expecting any, the only reason I got it is because the intake noise sounds cool to my old ears when I'm feeding it the beans Sometimes it's the silly things you do in in life that gives the most fun, and I do love anything that makes cool car noises In other news: I survived 4 nights at sea with Jackie not throwing me over board, holidays are continuing now as we are currently chilling at the Beachcomber in Toukley, after taking the coast roads from Sydney in the MX5, top down all the way, Toukley is where I spent a good deal of my youth holidaying during the summer months, there's lots of reminiscing going on, and lots of beaches and old houses to visit Next on the list is to head to Batemans Bay for a few days, but we will take the Commodore out to stretch its legs, then Commodore hasn't really moved for months

Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔