drpheel

They all have a nice brown beige color to them, tho the ceramic on #6 was a bit more black. I have changed them and re-gapped them. Im at the office right now so no acces to pics : (

Hey guys !! Just started my car this weekend after my friday night cruise and the car was Ideling funny. I could actualy hear a small POP sound returning in the plenum. After a few troubleshoot steps I noticed that when I pulled the 6th coil plug or injector plug the car was still ideling the same and still did the pop. all other coils or injector that I disconnect has a direct impact on idle. I have changed all the coil packs one by one, Cleaned my mafs, Checked the plugs and re-gapped them, Changed the Ignitor. I dont thinks its the fuel as the car was running great friday night. When my coil pack change did not work I did a compression test and found all 6 CLY to be 150-155 6th cyl was the best @ 155. Im kind of out of Ideas here Is there a way I can remove the coil of #6 and look if there is actualy a spark ?! All readings in POWER FC look great and I have no TPS probleme it sees IDLE ON and goes off as soon as I play with the throttle a bit. I wish I had a video to show you guys the sound :S Any help or pointers would be great !! thanks

So i got the the garage this morning and I noticed that my ajustement to the master cyl was set back as far as it would go, So then I started to think that if the clutch is still slipping then the slave is not pulling back enought. Some how the clutch slave Cyl push rod was a bit to long !? got one from a HCR32 in the nismo ECR33 one and now its gripping hard and the clutch is not engaging near the dash any more Hope this can help someone that is having the same probleme

not only the 5 fuses but the fuse holder is not shown in the diagram !? should it be from the Battery to the relay of from the relay to the pump !?

the pivot ball was the same lenght / size as the old one, I compaired both pivot ball and slave cyl befor changing them so sure those are okay ! I will take a look at the master cyl ajustment when i get at the shop in the morning and keep you posted! Thanks again

Thanks for the tips! I will try to fix it in the morning

Thanks for the fast reply! do you mean the push rod from the pedal to the master Cyl !? Will i need to re-bleed the system after ?

A few weeks back I pulled the tranny out to inspect a strange feeling when presseing on the clutch pedal. i found the pivot ball snapped near the tranny casing but still attached to the clutch fork. i have replaced with a nismo unit as well as the clutch slave cylinder. Now that my system is bleaded and the tranny is back on I get clutch slippage at verry low rpm and with no boost at all. also when i bleed the clutch , after releasing the extra air from the slave pussing the fork the clutch pedal stays stuck to the floor and i have to pull it back with my foot. The clutch also engages verry high but has a good smooth feel. Do you guys think that the clutch disc / pressure plate got un-even when the pilot ball went bad ?! Any info or tips would be great!! Thanks

Thanks for the info guys !! Any one else running this setup !?

Long story short I got a blown rb26 collecting dust in the garage and a rebuild 25 at the machine shop atm, I'm looking to put the 26's cam cover on the 25 but I noticed that on the Rb25 Head the oil baffles over the cams are on the 2 last lobes in the back of the head rather then the 2 front on the RB26. This makes sense because the rb25 stock covers pick up the air in the back of the cover and the 26's picks up in the front. Now my question is, should I relocate those oil baffles to prevent oil from going back in the catch can !? Would make sense to do so but just want to check if some one has gone down that road and can give me some advice

Looking for a few part number for my 93 r33 GTS25t ! - Set of 86mm piston rings - L and R rocker cover gaskets - L and R rocker cover half-moons Thanks in advance for your help

I have to agree with R31Nismoid... But any limiter abuse can lead to that and many more problemes on any car. That can be taken out of the equation with some reasonable driving/shifting. From my experience and knowledge a nice N1 is good enough ! Just make sure you address the crank collar probleme if its a early model engine. As for billet gears , I know Nitto makes a oil pump for the RB but I have no idea on the performance/quality of this product. http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-R...?vehicle=nissan just my 2 cents

I would just go with a N1 Pump and a proper crank collar ! Most of the gears that break on the pumps are caused by the small area of contact from the crank to the pump gear.

Mornning bump for me !! Still open for any ideas or suggestions

Thanks for all the help guys !! I think this seals the deal, the .76 will be my choice ! I just got a message form my tuner telling me the BW rear housings are about 300 UDS so if the .76 does not suit my style Il try to swap for either bigger or smaller knowing that I have a base idea of what the .76 feels like

You think the .85 would be to much of a slug in the streets ?! Yet people that run a 3076r with the .82 praise its good response and power

thats +2 for the .76 !! Thanks for your opinion

Agree, With the billet wheels and the new ETT my tuner has seen some spool a few 100x rpm quicker then the 3076r on some Vw Vr6 .70 or .76 seems like a good mid range street choices .... I dont like to pull up at a light to race I rather drop a 3rd on the Hwy I think this will lead to a larger A/R to take it a bit more in the top end

I have looked at alot of the RB25 builds and like I said above, non of theme are with the A/R selections That I have, Numbers will be 350 to 400 WHP , I want a smooth power band ... I dont want to have it go sideways when the boost kicks in, but I dont want to kill the top end either For street responce im thinking .70 or .76

One of my buddys can souce me a BorgWarner turbo for my Rb25, the model is S259 and this unit is there interpretation of the 3076r. My Exhaust will be V-band but as for the rear A/R, they do not offer the standard .63 or .82 A/R that you see in most Garrett housings. I have no compressor maping for the s259 as it is fairly new on the market so nothing to base my numbers on Turbo Specs : 360 journal, oil cooled , billet wheel with ETT wheel ( extended tip technology ) - Compressor Wheel Ind:59mm, Exd:80, Trim:44 - Turbine Wheel Ind:61.5, Exd:69.5 ***OR*** Ind:64, Exd:74 Here are my options for the rear A/R : - .55 a/r - .70 a/r - .76 a/r - .85 a/r The recomended A/R for the GT3076r is .82 as most people using this setup are showing good numbers ( with supporting mods) The .55 I know for sure is no good as even the Garrett .63 are not recommended for the RB25. My question is : What would you guys use OR try on a rb25 and what would be the outcome or expectations of your decision.

Sorry to bring the post back up but I wanted to know if there was a difference in any aspect of the turbo if I get it with the S-style Anti-Surge compressor housing in/out is 4'' / 2'' Thanks for any info !!

Me and my freind Just finished our rebuild on his rb20det. Now we are trying to drop it in the car and from what we saw last night its kind of hard to alling the 2 motor mount pins in the engine bay. Any one has a trick to put it back in?? any special procedures we have to follow ? Thanks for any info =D

Thanks Sk =D

My r33 did that about a week ago .... I know the coil pack are going out because it alwase does it on cold starts. But to avoid the probleme when I cruised the car around I did the following . - Removed the coil-pack cover and mounted the ignitor chip on the fire-wall ( helps to keep the humidity out ) - Checked all the Ground and Power connections to alternator, battery, coil-packs, ect. Try to monitor the Voltage - Some Fresh Spark plugs ( plain old NGK V-power gapped to 0.8 ) Cleaning the MAF is ok... But its kind of a on and off thing. It either works or dosent. Found out after this that my sound system was making to much vibration and the + of the battery was getting loose all the time .... Probleme never occure again ! If your car does it again ... Try to keep the gas on for a few seconds, If you see black smoke comming out then your fuel is not getting ignited. Gives you a good idea of where to start looking ! Hope this helps out !

Great !! thanks for the info !