mawzy

Yes will fit, i don't know if you guys in auz will get in trouble for this over there, but i simply slotted the holes in my gtt hinge, and from memory i think had to grind a bit aswell. Gaurds etc line up ok too. And using bonnet pins. Hood was 2nd hand and was already setup for them. It will however leave a bit of a hole between front of the hood and your gtt front bumper. Hope this helps.

So this is better? I was told it had been rebuilt, but again, no real proof to prove either way.

Thanks for the input. No there's no numbers, or tags on the centre cartridge. I've also added a picture of the compressor wheel. And thanks Hypergear, any idea on the make?

Yeah positive. The exhaust manifold I have is t4 flange, so had it changed to t3 to suit. Anyone hazard any more guesses. The only turbo's I've found with 6bolt exhaust flange like that has been a garrett gt32, but it's a diffrent looking/size turbo altogether. Would appreciate any help, thinking of selling this and down grading size, if people think it's too large.

Ahh sorry, it's a t3 entry flange and the only identification markings on it are ar .84 on the exhaust housing and ar .70 on the compressor housing with m24 and the lil stamp that looks like a fudged cross. The 2 middle photo's show this. Thanks.

Hi all. Just wanting to know if anyone recognises the make of this turbo, by it's design, or markings. Was told it was a rebuilt one with garrett parts but can neither confirm nor deny. had the housings off an the wheels are in perfect condition. No play in the shaft and spins freely. Also what's people's thoughts. I initially bought it to put onto an rb30det, long story short I ended up putting 25det neo back in the car. But when money allows was still thinking of using this on my 25, But I sorta think this will be too big and quite laggy. The other mods that would follow with it would be front face plenum, high rise exhaust manifold, 60mm hks style waste gate, 650cc injectors, and suitable after market computer. I have all the parts except computer. Anyone hazard any ideas on how responsive/powerful this setup will be? Thanks for any help, or input.

Yeah we pulled the doors off (coupe), front and rear bumper, bootlid and bonnet, and skirts and endcaps were all done off car as well. Basically 1 day we painted the shell, inside jams boot engine bay etc. then next day did one side the other parts, then 3rd day did other side of parts. Could have done more in 1 hit, was just space that limited us really, and there wasn't a major rush. Just take your time and sand sand sand. Another mistake i learnt afterwards was I used too bigger a nozzel on the gun, ended up with cuple runs and some "orange peel" effect. But can all be wet sand off after, just time consuming. Here a cuple fotos for ya.

I have mucked round doing front bumpers and gaurds for a while, and recently gave a whole car a go. All the above advice is very good, but at end the day it was very satisfying to be able to stand back and look at it and say I did that. My points of advice would be to put on a couple boxes of beer and rope your mates into the sanding. Makes life a bit more easier. Lighting was the biggest problem I had especially when it came to clearing. A friend followed me with a bright lamp in the end, because as you spray the clear, it's very hard to see where you have been with poor light. And wet your entire floor before starting. I did mine in my garage, and there's always a bitta dust etc, but as the air starts moving from the gun and movement etc, the water stops whatever comes into contact with it. Not perfect but helps a bit. And as long as you aren't expecting a showcar, you'll be happy with your results, and you only get good at things by trying and practising. Good luck.

Yeah the aac valve is plumbed in b4 throttlebody, was also thinking that mite be an issue if too big? Haven't been able to get the idle below 1000rpm with the adjutment, so thought maybe too much air? was gonna look into restricting it a bit? And thanks for your tip on secret squirrel thread, although i couldn't find that exact one, i found a related topic, which i got the gist of how to do it, so thanks very much.

Hi all. Just looking for opinions and maybe if peopl have had this problem, how they solved it. So the car is r34 gtt auto- converted to manual running auto ecu still. 3inch exhaust, turbo back to muffler and can on the back. bleed tap -8-10psi. Front mount gtr style intercooler 100x600x300 (yes I know this is far to big, trying to sell to downgrade). The car runs fine as is, occasionally creeping up to 11 psi, causing rich and retard, But for now I can live with that. Now i have bought an put a greddy imitation plenum on the car, yes I know they have there pitfalls, but for the price and a bitta work it was the option i have taken. Now the reasons for putting front face plenum on, I wanted to tidy the engine bay up, and try reduce lag a bit. I'm also wanting to fit top mount and turbo etc. So my thoughts were to do this in stages so when things go wrong there's less changes to go over. That and I don't want to put turbo on till can afford ecu. And in my mind, using the factory sensors etc, not much is diffrent to the ecu, just a diffrent path for the air. So the intake is on, with factory throttlebody, minus traction control, factory aac valve with adaptor, standard neo injectors. The issue is a big stall stutter at low revs, if you just give throttle a light touch, it dies, or if you try start moving etc bitta a flat spot, like a poorly tuned carb motor if you can understand. And after driving, the topend seemed a bit flat, but when I checked fault codes a knock sensor was unplugged, so i assume it was in get home mode. Haven't driven since plugged back in. Due to a rugby injury I havn't been able to work on it, and was just looking for sum input before i get into it. Yes the tps is set to correct voltage, although not having traction control in there has thrown up fault code that its unplugged. Could this be an issue? If so how have ppl gotten round it? From the intercooler to the plenum I've run 3inch piping aswell. And the other area I thought would cause greif is the injectors. I've used the factory rail, but removed the dampner, and all the looped hard piping that feeds the regulator, again just to tidy it up looks wise. I have another complete factory rail there that I was gonna try. Any advice or ideas to try would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for the novel, but time and time again I see ppl on here complaining about not getting a full description of the mods and problem, so I've tried to make a clear picture. thanks in advance for any help offered.

Thats odd, as i made my adaptor plate basically the same as yours, and did not foul on the factory oil cooler. was it just the metal water lines going into it? I did bend mine to diffrent angles to make them easier to get too. If its the actual aac valve hitting, maybe remake your adaptor, but have it sitting slightly higher, in relation to the manifold? Hope this helps you.

Hi, I recently did this with my r34 gtt, never found actual information on here either how ppl resolved problems, but i did see pictures of things done, so knew there must have been a way. Biggest issue I had was fitting 34 factory injectors. Which in the end turned out to be simply getting resized orings put on them to seal properly into the manifold. I went to a bearing and o-ring specialist. (The manifold hole is approx 1mm bigger) I used factory 34 fuel rail, slotted one the hole, and drilled a new hole on the other side to suit the manifold. Also needed a spacer aswell, can't remember how tall off the top my head. Seing as I was (don't flame me) still running factory ecu, I wanted to use factory aac valve. So made a plate , with countersunk bolts to fit the manifold, then the factory aac valve bolted on there. I was using a radiator header tank, so plumbing up all the water lines was a bit of a puzzel, but not too difficult. You'll likely need an adaptor to fit your throttlebody, but your stagea 1 should be the same as a 33 bolt pattern, again for ease of wiring, I'd try use your stagea one. Drill out the spot weld on the brather pipe on back of cam cover, and bend to suit, or cut off and run a silicon hose rite through. And in my case I was using an aftermarket throttlebody, so deleted the TCS, ( hadn't come up with a solution to get rid of fault codes and check light. What did people do for this problem? I was going to make a resistor setup to plug into the loom plug to simulate the TCS sensor still there, but would have run into the issue again when the car broke traction, and didn't respond. Any better solutions?) but retained the factory TPS sensor. Then obviously your new intercooler pipework to suit. Hope this helps can maybe post you some pics if you want. Good luck.

The R34 ecu has a diffrent pinout/plug to an r33, so unless you use the r34 loom aswell it won't work. Or splice the r34 loom plug into your r33 loom. But either option would be quite a big job. What is the ecu tuned for? I.e what mods etc was the r34 running? Would be interested in buying it off you if you decided it was too much work to make fit. Hope this helps you.

Hey stenve, have you had a chance to check out that wiring? Thanks,

Thanks very much, would really appreciate it.

Good to hear you got idle under control. Thanks very much for doing that check for me, although wasn't the answer I was looking for. I couldn't ask one more favour? Could you identify the colour of the wires that plug into it (not the engine loom side) And where they run too? A picture would be perfect, but again, mite be stretching ya a bit far. Sorry to ask of you again. Thanks

It's possible been disconnected, because it's causing the ruff idle? Try taking it off and giving a good clean out. I've done this with r32's and it's helped clean up the idle. presume 34's are the same. P.s. I'm having issues with my r34, and need to get hold of a tip 34. Could you do me a major favour. On the side of your intake there's 3 plugs, red black and silver. could you unplug the silver, and try start it? Would really appreciate if you could. understand if you don't want to. Thanks.

Yes to fuel lines and fuel. We even tried hard wiring fuel pump to battery, to rule out power supply issues to that. No such luck. But after a looking at a non turbo tiptronic yesterday, it didn't have the same plug configuration. Only a single black one, not the three. so limits me now to finding a tiptronic turbo to look at or if someone can post pictures, would be very grateful. thanks very much.

Hi all, long time reader, first time poster. I've usually found all the answers to issues, but this one has me stumped, and have not seen any posts with the answers I need. I have an r34 gtt tiptronic, which i converted to manual, and had running fine. The motor later on had a mischeif, and got thrown in the bin, (long story short) now 8months later, i have aquired a manual neo motor, which I have put into the car. Now, my problem is i can't get the car to run. It starts, kicks up to idle then dies. I have had a scanner connected to the car, and it could not detect any faults. Airlow was fine, cas was fine tps was fine. Automatic was throwing a few codes, but seeing as it isn't there that was to be expected. the car still sparks as it turns off, And it sounds primo firing all 6, and the injectors are all firing. it seems as though the ecu is stopping the car for an unknown reason. Now this is where I need help, There's one plug that I managed to completely strip when pulling the motor out, and now I can't find where it reconnects too. i know its something to do with the automatic, cos the manual loom bits that come with new motor don't have it. There's a clip with three plugs, midway along the intake manifold, between it and the driver side strut tower. red black and silver. (there's also the same colour combination at the front of manifold, for the tps and traction control) The plug I'm having issue with is the silver one. Can someone tell me where this connects too? What it does, and or take a foto of this? And the colour the wires are that connect to it? Also, could someone try start their 34 with this unplugged? To see if this is indeed the cause of my problems. I'm really hoping it is, because apart from this I'm at a dead end. Or if anyone can suggest other areas to look or test, I'd be really grateful. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.