mawzy

Go for it and goodluck. I think it's a bit unfair people saying, don't do that you could make your car way faster etc, as mentioned everyone has their own preferences when comes to modifying cars. I've personally just finished doing a complete gtr lookalike conversion on my gtt, (spraying this week) and I'm really happy with the results. Things to be wary of, or mention to guys doing, petrol flap is a mare, will need a new hinge setup in it, or get a factory gtr flap, and cutout hinging point to match a factory gtr before you fit over fenders. (the gtt body has the template marked on it) I didn't know/do this and made life a bit trickier. Possible look for gtr rear tail light covers to match your gaurds, or build you factory gtt ones out to suit. (what I did not hard and ya get a perfect match) If you're using the fibreglass rear quarters, your factory skirts will match in if you trim the height behind the door, the fibreglass gaurds stop close to factory gtt skirt height. Also the fibreglass gaurds are actually 20 odd mm wider than factory gtr, definately a more aggressive stance, but if you trying to make an exact replica, not the same. And unfortunately, an estimate at 6k, would be pretty generous. I've done all the work myself, made all my own molds and gtr parts, (if you want any I can make GTR factory side skirts, rear bumper, fromt bumper, nismo skirts, z tune front splitter, nismo rear pods, and the rear overfender) And all on the car and primed I was roughly around 4K. That was tubbing rear gaurds, materials, and paying to borrow and repaint factory Items. If you put labour ontop, bill will add up quickly. If it's something you want you definately be happy with the results.

When I set my imitation greddy manifold on my neo motor, I fitted factory gtt injectors and rail, by slotting the holes in the rail, and making a spacer. and got new O-rings that had thicker sidewalls. Fitted tight. cost 5 dollars from a local bearing supplier. Just make sure if you do do this they're up to withstanding fuel.

Above comment is correct. Gtt bonnet has the bit between the headlights as part of it, and the bumper is lower and meets this line. Whereas the gtr one stops more or less flush with the lights, and the gtr bumper has a higher part to it that fills in nicely. Also gtr gaurds mount approx 20-25mm higher in the engine bay, so I'm uncertain if this will clear a factory gtt bonnets "skeleton". I havn't tried putting a gtt bonnet on with my gtr gaurds. So you could trim bumper to suit your current bonnet, or trim bonnet to suit bumper. If you do swap to a gtr bonnet, the hinges either need replaced with gtr items, or slightly modify the gtt ones to work. Again with bonnet catch, needs replaced or modified to work with gtr bonnet. Or use bonnet pins. I don't know the legalities of doing this over there in auz. I know it's not a problem here in nz. Good luck

i could make one my gtr ones and modify the corners to suit a gtt, but at the moment there's been no interest in the parts I've made so havn't bothered making anything else.

yes. but will need pulled in at the wheels, and will stick 10mm out past bottom of tail lights. Can be cropped to suit, and the flex into the rear wheels isn't that bad. Perfect fit around bootlid and lights. I know because I've dummy fitted a genuine one and make fibreglass ones. With wide rear gaurds it all fits up mint. Have added a picture of it just sitting on my car.

I don't know all the in's and outs of the resins and chemicals etc. The guy I get my supplies from keeps it nice n simple for me, and we were just talking bout CF and diffrent applications etc, and he sed the resin i'd been using would work, but exposed to long periods of sun, as in car parts would start to go brown. The other resin was only 10 buks dearer, but that was in 20l lots. Would hazard most any local panel beater would be able to sort ya out. Hopefully doesn't rip ya too much. Depending on your own experience and practicallity, give it a go. It's not the hardest job, n would save ya some bucks. Jump on youtube and hunt round. good luck bud

I've done a bitta fibreglassing, and starting to learn abit bout carbon. Don't know if I'll bother with it but from what I know, correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but if you clean up the chip, break any flakey bits etc, you can just fill with resin again. Aslong as the mattings not damaged, it should come up as new again. You'll need to buff/polish off once dried to flatten the area out again, but shouldn't be a major. Just make sure you get the right resin. Some are intended for glass, and when used with carbon will fade and discolour.

Hi, to buy whole kit will be approx 2k-2.3k. I havn't really worked out all the in's and outs of prices yet. But the letdown at this stage is, unless someone, there or here pre orders factory gtr front gaurds from me I'm not going to make them, simply due to costs, and I'm noy planning on making a bonnet. So these are extra parts/costs for buyers, so definately starts to get costly. Plus fitting etc if you're not a DIYer. I know the rear fits perfectly, but is wider. But the skirts will need some work seeing as thy're not really for a gtt, but I don't know how much/little. I've only ruffly test fitted them so far. Front needs a little work, but I'm gonna get that fitting better before I sell any. I also won't be completely trimming around the top mole, just so there's extra meat there for ppl to play with depending on there car etc. Just don't want to set them up for my car, and then there's is diffrent and there's no leway. Then there's also shipping costs, which i don't have a clue, and wouldn't really want to hazard a guess at. The two bumpers would need to be packaged on their own, they don't fit together at all, but the rest would pack together nicely. But for example, if 1 kit was bought and shipping was 1000, to send 2 kits to same depot, wouldn't double, would maybe go to 1300, two ways thats cheaper than sending just 1 kit. And will definatley sell parts individually. But the more bought, the better the deal I can do. Thanks, and sorry to kinda hijack this thread, If mods would like I can maybe start a new one when better photo's prces shipping etc are sorted?

No sorry can't do front bumper in carbon. At this stage carbon is going to be an experiment/learning curve for me. So will only be doing simple parts, ie the nismo kit, possibly the sideskirts, and making a carbon insert for the rear bumper to go round the exhaust moulding. Unsure on which bonnet you have, but aslong as the front of it is raised like a gtr bonnet I don't see any issues. Waiting to see if ppl can/do trim their factory gtt bonnets aswell.

Nice work. The top support bar you have fitted, and made brackets for, does the bumper just rest against that, or does it bolt to it? I also take it thats the factory gtt one just relocated? This is my mission over xmas, as i've just finished/finishing making full gtr kit to fit. Will have bottom lips for sale too, but very slightly diffrent than OEM. The two vents/openings in it won't have the thin divider. Will just be one big vent.

Just an early pic of parts coming out of moulds etc, all still ruff and need tidying up but you can start to get the idea. Front lips missing and the rest the nismo kit not done yet either. Which I'll also be doing in carbon aswell if there's enough interest.

Just to put a spanner in the works here, and again I'm in new zealand so postage mite be a problem, but I'm about halfway through making full gtr kit for the r34. Factory fibreglass front fenders, front bar and lip, 2 peice side skirts rear bumper, 50mm widebody rears, and at a later date a full nismo skirt kit. Could be an option for some who are on a bit more of a budget, and again still not quite finished making moulds. Got couple bits to tidy up. Cost would almost be half that of the eastbear kit, but I couldn't offer a plastic version. PM me if you are interested in any parts, and possibly what parts of auz you live in and could find out quotes on postage

hey got round to taking a couple pics for ya. first is front with gtr fender nismo style bonnet do luck front, and no skirt. only took off to test fit new skirt. Quite like the way the sill tucks in from the front. the second is with skirt on. Quite a wide style, so did help to fill the rear out a bit. In saying that I will be doing the rear widebody at some stage

And sorry I don't have any photo's at the moment. We got robbed a while back, laptops/harddrives etc all got taken, and just havn't gotten round to taking any more pics. Will do some stage if I get a chance to clean the car.

Thanks for that guys. i do have another factory regulator there so will test that and pump again. So it's likely a regulator fault, but is it odd that it only shows as a problem with the bosch pump? I have no issues with factory setup in there. or is it just the extra flow/pressure that causing the greif? Also if the other reg doesn't resolve my issue, people recomend not buying a nismo regulator? Thanks

Hi all. Just after peoples opinions here. Personally not a fan of them, but the reason I'm looking into it is to lower my fuel pressure. I have an in cabin gauge, with factory pump, injectors and tune, runs at 42psi on idle. A while ago I set my bosch 044 up intank and it was running 56psi at idle. I changed back to factory pump for the mean time. Wanted to sort some other issues parts etc. Now I'm gearing up to put pump back in along with some 600cc inj, but was thinking i mite need to put a reugulator in the mix to get pressure back down to 42mark. I'm looking at getting a nismo regulator, mostly for the ease of installation, and not having a remote mounted one. Now should i be worrying about doing this or, simply run at the 56psi? thanks for any input help guys.

I have done most this conversion, gtr gaurds, z tune style carbon bonnet do luck front, and it does look a bit odd with factory gtt rears. Not unbearable, but just looks odd. Havn't put them on yet but doing the rears to go with the front. Just hunting for a factory gtr front, and possibly a diffrent style sideskirt than what i have. Don't think it'll suit.

man, been looking for a gtr front bumper. Does he have more? can you post contact details if he does? thanks

Just another question to add to this, but is it worth deburring/polish the inside of the block? Like Tidy up all the casting marks etc? or is this a waste of time? I have been told it helps oil to settle in the sump quiker. Same with oil return from head, and in round the oil filter feed.

Pays to have it resurfaced, and also pressure tested. you can get away without doing this but at the end the day ifit leaks, you gotta pull it apart. New gasket. Adaptor plate for aac valve, not hard to make your own, or you'll need to get one made. An adaptor for your throttlebody. Think the r33 adaptor will work, but unsure as I made my own hereaswell. If you use you factory injectors and rail. Slot the mounting holes, and make apropriate spacers for the rail. U'll need from memory new oring 7.5mm inner diameter, 15-16mm outer diameter, can't remember exactly, to fit the intake. New vacuum lines to plumb it all up, aswell as brake booster and water lines. And you'll need to get creative on where you plumb all the water lines, as there's 3 in the aac valve, but you don't have 3 to connect to. I never got mine sorted, ie that the flow was going correctly. I knew it was running hotter than normal, because the electric fans were coming on more and they're set of a 85 degree thermo switch. make new intercooler pipework to suit new intake. Then after all sed and done it won't run on a factory ecu. My understanding is that the volume of air inside the plenum is whats throwing the tune outta whack. big flat spot from 3k onwards, probly a loss on 1/3 power. So unless you plan to, chip n tune, nistune, or some other ecu, you will be sorely disapointed when you take for first run.

Yeah it's quite a bitta work. need adaptor plate for aac valve. use as much of your standard wiring as you can. I used neo injectors with diffrent orings to fit and spaced the rail up, then at the end the day was useless with the factory ecu having a big meltdown. Couldn't get the idle stable, and was down heaps on power, and just didn't enjoy running in general. Put back to factory and runs fine again. Unless you have a piggyback or replacement ecu, I'd wait to do this mod.

So definately staying away from the cheap n nasty then. The only problem is I'll probly be buying online, so won't be able to inspect the item b4 hand. Are there any trusted suppliers over there i could contact to buy a new one? There is a supplyer here, but they're asking 500 for a quality new one. And I'm thinking i should be able to find a sharper price. Times not really an issue. Got lots of other parts to sort out along the way. And can anyone clarify, what are the yellow sticker ones? Also, are the vh45, and vh41 airflow meters viable options with the PFC?

Hi all. So after getting an apexi pfc, and having a chat with a local tuner who I'm going to use, I'm on the hunt for a z32 airflow meter. But I'm wanting to know if they are all the sme? between the non turb, and turb ones, and I have seen yellow sticker ones, and orange sticker ones. Is there anything I need to be weary of? How about the new ones you can buy? i imagine some of them are cheap knockoffs? Or is there little diffrence between genuine and chinese here? Thanks.

I've been collecting parts for the last year or so, and the last on my list was an ecu. Aiming to get a plug n play link ecu, but at 1800 + tune was gonna be a very costly endevour. So whenan apexi pfc came up cheap on TM, seemed like the better option. And from what I've read, it has a few advantages over the link, albeit some disadvantages. I havn't tried pluggin it in yet, was thinking mite try get some q's answered, and continue digging through some old threads. It's been tuned for a neo 25det, with 530cc inj, highflow turbo, exhaust front mount pod, and fuel pump. At this stage my car is factory except exhaust, pod and frontmount. I do have 600cc inj, front face plenum, 75mm throttlebody, and at a stretch a older garret to4e. I asked about it a while ago, and the general concensus was that it'd be bit laggy for a 25det. Having trouble onselling and thinking bout maybe using it. Now for a few q's. I have a hand controller. Not having plugd it in I don't know if it's locked or not, but am I better off going back to default tune or working with whats already on it? Can any1 help supply a near factory tune? Yes I do know the right answer is to dyno tune, but looking at the interim, to get it in running, and start putting a few parts on, but keeping the car usable. If I go back default tune, how suitable is it for driving? Ie is it a close match to a factory tune? A side not, the reason trying to get ecu in and running, I've always had trouble with my factory ecu, with r+r. I'm assuming it also keeps the vvt working? Are there any other tips people can offer to a pfc beginner? Thanks in advance for any info, and or advice you can offer.

I don't know if you or any1 else there in auz are interested, but I'm goona have a few sets of r34 fibreglass widebody rear gaurds and fibreglass gtr rear bumpers for sale. Was gonna advertise them on here but didn't think there'd be much interest. If you get stuck for finding a rear end you like over there, I can send through some photo's etc. Keep in mind, your dollar is worth more than ours, be a bit cheaper for you maybe.