RoVer™

PM sent.

I had a police woman once telling me to slow down or else at a traffic light. Funny thing is, I wasn't even speeding, I was even doing 50 in a 60 zone because I had just started the car... Another guy gave me the finger for speeding whilst on the right lane. I opened the window, pointing to the side of the road with a clublock in my hand. He didn't.

Hi, I know I'm digging the this thread from the grave a lil, but the S2 foggies bulb type is unclear. So far I've read they are H1, H3 and H7 on the forum. PM-R33, here you're a 100% the foggies are H1's, in this thread they're H3. Unless I missed something? Come on guys, this stuff should be ABC.

427rwkw... Thats something else... I sat in a 350rwkw 180sx race car (nos) and that scared the living sh!t out of me. Good job man

I'll take one too

Engine/Car: R33 GTS25T S2 First time Type of failure: New Exedy clutch with less than 3000kms died, and clutch fork. Factors influencing the failure: Pushrod at the clutch pedal was adjusted too far in, clutch was constantly slightly dis-engaged (like keeping your foot slightly on the clutch 24/7) State of tune of the engine: Unknown Jap tune, but stock boost and motor. 3" catback, apexi pod. Suspension and tyres: Tein coilovers, 18"s. Oil used and service interval: Castrol Magnatec every 5000kms or earlier + filter. Second time Engine/Car: Type of failure: Turbo. Factors influencing the failure: Intercooler hose came off a week earlier causing the car to turn off, coke cap placed to block off a hose for a flutter. lol. State of tune of the engine: Unknown Jap tune, stock boost and motor. 3" catback, apexi pod. Suspension and tyres: Tein coilovers, 18"s. Oil used and service interval: Castrol Magnatec every 5000kms or earlier + filter. General comments: Coke cap had been put in the night before the turbo failed.

Almost forgot, car is a R33 GTS25T S2, as seen on the yellow sticker.

Hey guys, I decided to pull out my ECU to see if it was stock or not, as I noticed all the limiters were bypassed. I noticed a gold sticker with TD Craft, ' Best adjusted tuner, Special Computer Control Unit' written on it. Anyone heard of this brand before? A quick google search shows it's a Japanese tuning company located in Yamagata and is a ROM tune. www.tdcraft.com You'll need google translator as it's in Japanese. Could this be retuned? I'll probably need a word with a few tuners about this, fingers crossed I might get away with spending 1K+ on a remapped Z32/R32 ECU. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.

Spoke to Sam today, 34 ECU into R33 is too much trouble. And a flash tune on the stock 33 isn't worth it. Instead he suggested an R32 ECU + VCT controller, quoted me $1000 everything supplied, fitted and tuned. Sam also told me the Z32 ECU is an option but they're not quite right with idle and a few other things... He also gave me the option of GTR cams with cam gears for the VCT dilemma, but highly recommends an R32 ECU + VCT controller. Anyone have any other suggestions? I read Rising Sun on here can retune R33 ECU's, need more info though. Cheers.

the ECU came out of a 34 that had splitfires, blitz ebc, fuel pump, injectors, bigger turbo and fmic. Currently tuned to 270rwkw. All belongs to 'hamoti' on here who wrote it off a few years back. I'll have a chat to sam from dr drift tommorow. Cheers.

Hey guys, I've been given a R34 GT-T ECU thats been reflashed/tuned by Dr Drift, could I plug this into my R33 S2 GTS25T? I'm guessing it's not going to be plug and play, I didn't achieve much out of searching. has anyone done anything like this before? I've also been given Splitfire coilpacks for a R34, bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors. a quick search tells me the coilpacks will fit a S2 R33, but the injectors won't without modification. Help is much appreciated, cheers. Rover.

Is it normal for the car not to boost like usual on hot days? (38C today!) It's usually boosting between 11-12psi, today it won't boost over 9-9.5psi, even after adjustment at the (turbotech) bleed valve. I did find the bleed valve loose this morning though. Tightened it back up, but minor difference. Hot day causing this boost drop? Probably helps to mention: stock R34 side mount, and R34 turbo. Thanks guys.

Yeah, when he put the clutch in which was a cold day there was free-play even though it wasn't adjusted. The clutch becomes more sensitive to disengagement on hot days (read: 35C+) so I'm thinking my master cylinder might be on it's way out soon. We'll see.

35C and the clutch didn't slip even under extreme force, now I'm quite confident the pedal was always abit pressed causing the clutch to be slightly disengaged, constantly. This 'small' problem binned 2 clutches, both being Exedy, 1 fork and will be giving my brand new heavy duty clutch an earlier retirement for sure. :sigh:. Props goes to blind_elk for suggesting the fix! Cheers for all the help guys.

Thats what made sense to me, blind_elk seems to be confident that this isn't the case though. I'll find out soon.