kjb_r33

thanks. It the pearl blue

Still on the market

Still on the market, 8000

Hey Guys, looks like my wife may be going into the delivery business so she needs to sell her baby to buy a van. Below is the info from her listing on carsguide.com.au 1993 Nissan 300ZX Z32 Fairlady: 3.0L V6 TWIN TURBO...2 SEATER: REGISTERED UNTIL FEB 2008, 4 SPD AUTO, 4 NEAR NEW 18" TYRES (235's and 265's). Turbos were both replaced around 12 months or so ago. 2 Brand new HEADLIGHTS, NEW TIMING BELT, BLACK WIDOW ALARM SYSTEM, CENTRAL LOCKING, POWER STEERING, POWER WINDOWS, POWER SEATS, SEATS ARE GREY LEATHER WITH A VELOUR TRIM INTERIOR, CLIMATE CONTROL, TARGA SUNROOF, INTERCOOLER, TV/DVD/CD/MP3 PLAYER WITH REMOTE CONTROL AND SCREEN, 4 X BOSE SPEAKERS (standard) LOW KMS, REMOTE OIL FILTER WITH TWIN COOLERS, AFTER MARKET ADJUSTABLE CASTER AND CAMBER RODS, TWIN BOV`S, MOMO STEERING WHEEL, TURBO TIMER, VERY GOOD CONDITION. Brand new battery Boost gauge "A" pillar gauge holder containing exhaust temp gauge (not connected, but good for reading under bonnet temps)and engine temp gauge. Shes after $15,500 Cars at Penrith

Found the culprit. All the fmic hoses were tight but the torque reaction of the engine was pulling a hose off when on boost. when engine relaxed again hos was popping back one. One of the pipes apparently had to be cut to make it fit so there is no flange/rib on it. Thanks guys.

Other than maybe an internal injector dribbling, there is no external leaks. Thing idles smoothly, runs great upto redline with no load. Even disconnected regulator hose to give it full rail pressure and and it still idles smoothly. As i said earlier, it started doing it suddenly. Thanks for the suggestions.

Computer has been reset, he had actually tried another ecu as well. After running it it seems to be running rich more than anything, ive checked o2 sensor output while its doing the spluttering (using scan tool) and its reading very rich, plus you can smell the fuel.

Having a problem with a mates series 2 r33. Engine runs fine unloaded, can free rev to 7 grand with no problem but once its loaded up its starts spluttering. Is hitting around 9 psi of boost with no problems, but it feels like the its not going anywhere, or even that the brakes are being applied. No fault codes show up, and with a scan tool plugged in everything seems to be where its supposed to be. Tps: good through whole range. AFM: .5v keyon engine off, just over 1v at idle and good transition through rev range stable rpm so CAS seems ok. Things that have been tested. Coils swapped over with a known good set. News plugs, gapped to 0.8 mm Tried a different afm anyway, no different. Checked exhaust back pressure to make sure exhaust isnt blocked (removed and checked cat as well) It actually does feel like a blocked exhaust but it hits no more than 5kpa, 20 kpa being the limit. checked fuel pressure and flow, all good. Compressor wheel and turbine are all intact, spins freely with minimal movement, waste gate opens and closes as it should (checked with pressure regulator from my compressor). Engine is basically stock, just has a rb20 wastegate actuator and FMIC. Was running fine, problem started all of a sudden, not gradually. Sort of steering clear of CAS because it does free rev with no problems. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Pricedrop (in original post with new information

Still on the market, and open to offers

Have owned car for 4 years. Completely stock with the exception of a rb20 wastegate actuator. Few marks in the interior and could use a paint job, but other than that its a great reliable car. Within the last 2 years its had a new water pump and timing belt fitted. Only reason im selling this is because i also have a r32 and a 300zx, its just not getting driven enough and its a shame to see it sitting there. The following pics are a few years old now, will get some current ones tomorrow. Same car, just has a bit of paint fade and stone chips at the front. Looking for 6500. So low mainly due to the fact that it does need a paint job. EDIT: Forgot to add, its got 140,000 k's on it

Mate,if you still have it, how much to pack the air con stuff up and send to sydney. Dont really need the condensor, just the other stuff. Mainly the line from the firewall fitting to the compressor but i'll take it all. Ken

where are you i hvae a full set plus some on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

is first gear hard? maybe your clutch is dragging so input shaft is still turning

Kelly went out with orders, bin it or win it.

when you start it, DONT let it idle, bring revs up to around 1200 or so, keeps oil up on cylinder walls, cause they will be relatively dry.

If all you disbeleivers care to come check out my car, ill take you for a drive with the stock ECU, then change to the motec (takes about 5 minutes because of the interface i made up to keep the standard harness). I'll defy you to pick ANY difference in gear change. Under full boost ignition is retarded anyway, under cruise there isnt enough torque to damage the box, and line pressure in the box (which is controlled by the AUTO ECU) is alot lower, so the changes arent as harsh anyway.

The only reason for the retardation of ignition timing is to lower torque during the change, many cars get away without it. I never noticed any adverse effects. The auto DOES have its own ECU, it only needs to know throttle position and road speed to correctly time the shift points. The standard engine ecu sends the TPS signal to the auto ecu, i just bridged the tps signal input to motec to the tps wire going to the auto ecu.

I was until recently running a motec m48 in my r33. just had to bridge some wires in my interface for the auto. Never really felt any different to the standard ecu

soapy water isnt real good unless you pressurize your manifold. Easiest way is by spraying aerostart or similar aroung inlet manifold while engine is idling, if revs increase the leak is in the area where you were spraying. I have access to a manifold leak detector, awesome machine, it pressurizes manifold with smoke, makes leaks very easy to find, but failing that, the aerostart or "startyabastard" will work

Check for air leaks. Make sure vacuum hoses are all ok

mine arrived as well. Thanks again DOM. once again appreciate all your efforts. Cheers mate

DaMN. your postie takes liberties

Are the coils series one or two?

I'll take the series ones for 50 as well. let me know