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pinoi_boi_r33

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Everything posted by pinoi_boi_r33

  1. i'm taking the car to genesis now to find a problem so i'll let u know how i go with them, they seem very friendly and professional. Will probably take the power fc to them when it comes.
  2. umm. the r33 gts is the same pic from the do-luck website. I rang them a while ago asking if they had it and no they did not. But things may have changed, are you sure NARZ has them?. I know PRESA on these forums got his kit done by them so ask him to give some input. I saw presa's car and kit seemed to fit nicely. i was going to purchase some rear pods of him (guessing made by narz).
  3. basically as title: splitfire coils for an r33 gtst rb25det. Where is the best place to get them?
  4. alright yeah i'll have to try the solder again, need to do a bloody flight mechanics assignment today so I have rerouted vac lines till i get time to solder again. Yeah i'm using standard t piece. Yeah i forgot to mention that i have a FMIC maybe thats y i can't use the standard restricter? Thanks fellas.
  5. alright i tried Sk's lower setting same thing hit about load point 20 and starts bubbling spitting. I have found its ok at half way on stocker guage anything above and it spits. But before point 20 i put the output to 100% and kept it 100% rest of the way and i've seen nearly 1 bar. Could it be the turbo shitting itself? or maxing out afm? When i reroute the vac lines as per sk page 2 it is fine all the way to the redline and boost is at half way on the stocker guage (yes i know its just under .5 bar but its close). Any vic people point me in the direction of a good place to go, i'm thinking genesis in blackburn. When it spits and bubbles the car slows down dramatically, is this the ECU rich and retard? for the moment i will just reroute the vac lines as its sh1tting me. How would u solder up the t piece? the hole is so big i can't get the solder wire to fill the whole space. Any ideas on restrictor size it shouldn't be that bad?
  6. the labels arent swapped as the more percentage the solenoid is open the more boost the wastegate actuator sees= less boost. edit: sorry elbee, thort u were talking bout hi/lo graphs not axis labels. scuse me :Oops:
  7. alright i have wired it in and results have been quite bad. I don't know what the problem is. i put every load point to 100% which means minimum boost but the thing bubbles and spatters when it reaches load point about 20. I was like f/ck, is that the turbs coils whatever, but the boost was at about half a bar, which should be fine? As soon as it hit .5 bar it just bubbled lost so much power. so i rerouted the vac lines so as not to use the solenoid the way Sk did it in page 2 i think. That ran about .5 bar all the way to the redline fine, no spits no spatters. was better than stock thanks to that little trick with the restricter. next i thought it was the solenoid. I removed it and i gave it 12 volts and it opened so its not that, i didn't think it was that since the car was running fine before that anyway. so i thought it was the voltage or wiring goin to the solenoid on the ( H ) setting i had the output to 100% on the ( L ) setting i had it on zero. i put a multimeter on the plug that goes to the solenoid when on ( H ) i was reading 12 volts, when a friend flicked the switch to ( L) it read 0 volts, so that seems fine. can't be the turbo coz it ran fine at .5 bar all the way to redline and the same with coils spark plug. My vac lines are as follows: boost off the intercooler pipes to the top of the solenoid bottom of the solenoid to a t-piece from the t-piece: 1 to the wastegate actuator and 1 to the bov return pipe that uses the standard restricor. I turned the trimpot on the IEBC full clockwise as per instructions. There is no erratic signals from the injector so i guess i don't need to adjust the trim. ie/ i rev it and it the input goes fine. when i rerouted the vac lines as per SK page 2 i got up to input of about 55 which seems fine was in a low gear near the redline. Since the hose that uses the standard restrictor is a little big for the BOV return pipe there isn't a proper seal there, could that be a problem?. I tried soldering the t piece but i can't get solder to fill the whole space. Could it be the BOV doing something funny? but that would mean boost goes down but it doesn't. I'm thinking of taking it to a performance shop but i think most would laugh at me using a boost controller that cost only a hundred bucks and they wouldn't know wats the go with it. any ideas?
  8. but slightly over 0 at 4 or 5 grand seems low. how far is your pedal down and what gear?
  9. does the HC have light? and no writing? if so then do what newkleer said. The trimpot is located near the 25 pin thing to the left its blue and white, turn clockwise about 45 degrees. If the hc has no light at all then i don't know.
  10. if u turn up the % on the hand controller the 3rd led will start to blink once you have reached 100% it will be on fully. U will see it getting brighter as you move up in the percentages. rom.
  11. alright built the iebc and hc. works fine and tested it. Might put it into the car this weekend. For r33 gtst i will use the pins: pin 101: number 1 injector pin 59: +12 V pin 50: Ground pin 25: Solenoid. Will i need to do anything to the wires at the solenoid itself? i found these fotos. Thanks resonance for that apexi link: remember its for an ecr33. I highly rate these kits, i have never built a kit before. So if i can do it so can you. Get a multimeter and antisolder/braid tho.
  12. it was that exact resistor its a 10 ohm one just above the "reg1 lm 2940ct5" the zener diode in between the resistor and reg1 was the wrong way (zd2) maybe its the same for you. SK i wired it to the power that goes to the head unit. wouldn't that be ok since the head unit only gets power when on accessories or on position? rethinking what i said: u r right as usual; the ecu is not on whilst accessories is on right? good point. it was more for a test as i didn't want to hack up the ecu without knowing which pin is which. Will i need to permanently ground the solenoid or the the standard wiring at the solenoid is fine? now all i need is the pins. cheers.
  13. does any one know where i can get the r33 rb25 det ecu pins? I can't find it. I finished building the IEBC and handcontroller. I used the 12v that goes to the head unit to test. Was very happy when the screen lit up. I think i'll use that as the power as i don't want to chop the ecu wires too much. edit: How much for the digital thermometer. I might be up for 2 or 3 of them oil and water temp and 1 for me bro
  14. i just finished building the handcontroller and boost controller. I tested it by using the 12v that normally goes to the headunit. My head unit was stolen so it was easy for me as the wires were right there. I think i will use this wire any way as its less to cut from the original ECU. I accidentally wired a transistor in the wrong way and burnt a 10 ohm resistor. I tested its resistance and it was still 10 ohms. Never the less i'll replace it before it goes in the car permanently. Does any one know where the r33 gtst ECU pinout diagram is? I've been searching but i'll keep going. cheers Rom.
  15. yeah i thought it was ok since thats the way the pictures are in the book and actually the pamphlet thing. If i need to take it out i'll just use some braid so as not to heat it up too much.
  16. woops i soldered the IC directly into the PCB would that matter, i didn't use the socket thingy.
  17. cheers man!!! i can't believe you built em already. Cough, final year electrical engineering student . Lol i don't even own a solder yet. I might pm u with a few q's less clutter in the thread.
  18. Thanks for that shan. If any one is hesitant don't be shan will look after you P.S can some1 help: how do u know which direction the reset switch goes on the hand controller (s10) ?
  19. where in glen waverly? pm me i'll be there.
  20. ah tommo y didn't you come earlier, i pikt up a new lid from the wreckers. the way i did it was wedge a folded up piece of paper in between the latch and lid part. sometimes the lid still came up and i miss shifted a few times into third because my arm hit the lid and i couldn't pull the gear stick right back. Cheers.
  21. i think u should say that the spoiler is a series 1 spoiler if u say flat people will think the drift or stealth wing.
  22. both have been sold. thanks.
  23. johnbarry88 what are you after, the wing or the amp? or both.
  24. i have an apexi one i had a HKS one u can tell the difference Apexi much much better.
  25. is the guage el1 or el2 mechanical.
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